TREASURY  DEPARTMENT 

UNITED  STATES  COAST  AND  GEODETIC  SURVEY 

HENRY  S.  PRITCHETT 

SUPERINTENDENT. 


Bulletin  No.  40. 

SECOXU  EDI'riOX-WITJr  ADDITIONS   ATMD  CIIAXCES. 


ALASKA 


COAST  PILOT  NOTES  ON  THE  FOX  ISLANDS  PASSES,  UNALASKA 

BAY,  BERING  SEA,  AND  ARCTIC  OCEAN 

AS  FAR  AS  POINT  BARROW. 


Prepared  by  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  and  revised  by 
Lieut.  D.  H.  Jarvis,  U.  S.  R.  C.  S. 


Bulletins  are  issued  by  the  Survey  from  time  to  time  as  material  for  them  accumulates.  They  are  intended 
to  give  early  announcement  of  work  accomplished  or  information  of  importance  obtained,  and  will,  in  many 
cases,  anticipate  the  usual  means  of  publication  afforded  by  the  Annual  Reports. 

Those  already  published,  Nos.  1  to  35,  inclusive,  in  quarto  form,  constitute  Vol.  I;  No.s.  26  to  S."),  inolusivo, 
in  octavo,  constitute  Vol.  II;  Vol.  Ill  begins  with  No.  36. 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT   PRINTING   OFFICE 
190^0. 


TREASURY  DEPARTMENT 
UNITED  STATES  COAST  AND  GEODETIC  SURVEY 

HENRY  S.  PRITCHETT 

SUPERINTENDENT. 


Bulletin  No.  40. 

SECOND  EDITIOX-WITII  ADDITIONS  AND  CHANGES. 


ALASKA 


COAST  PILOT  NOTES  ON  THE  FOX  ISLANDS  PASSES,  UNALASKA 

BAY,  BERING  SEA,  AND  ARCTIC  OCEAN 

AS  FAR  AS  POINT  BARROW. 


Prepared  by  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  and  revised  by 
Lieut.  D.  H.  Jarvis,  U.  S.  R.  C.  S. 


Bulletins  are  is.sued  by  tlie  Survey  from  time  to  time  as  material  for  them  accumulates.  They  are  intended 
to  give  early  announcement  of  work  accomplished  or  information  of  iinportani'e  obtained,  and  will,  in  many 
cases,  anticijjate  the  usual  means  of  publication  afforded  by  the  Annual  Rei)orts. 

Those  already  published,  Nos.  1  to  2"),  inclusive,  in  quarto  form,  con.stitute  Vol.  I;  Nos.  20  to  35,  inclusive, 
in  octavo,  constitute  Vol.  II ;  Vol.  Ill  begins  witli  No.  30. 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE 
1900. 


TREASURY  DEPARTMENT, 
United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Office, 

Washington,  D.  C,  ^jmi  2,  1900. 

The  information  contained  in  this  bulletin  relates  to  the  Fox  Islands  Passes,  Unalaska 
Bay,  the  coast  and  islands  of  Alaska  to  the  eastwai'd  and  nortliward  of  the  passes,  and  the 
Arctic  Ocean  as  far  as  Point  Barrow.  Bulletin  No.  40,  issued  May  4,  180'J,  contained  all 
the  information  available  to  the  date  of  its  publication.  In  this,  the  second  edition  of  Bul- 
letin No.  40,  all  later  information  has  been  added;  it  lias  been  compiled  in  the  office  of  the 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  from  the  following  sources : 

Reports  of  United  States  naval  officers  published  in  Hydrographic  OlKce  Notice  to 
Mariners. 

Report  of  Lieut.  Commander  Z.  L.  Tanner,  U.  S.  N.,  commanding  U.  S.  Fish  Commis- 
sion steamer  Albatross,  from  a  reconuoissance  of  Bristol  Bay  in  IS'.iO. 

Reports  of  J.  F.  Pratt,  Assistant,  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  in  charge  of  parties 
surveying  Golofnin  Bay  and  tlie  j^assos  and  ihits  of  the  Yukon  River  in  18'.)8  and  18'J9. 

Reports  of  Assistants  G.  R.  Putnam  and  R.  L.  Faris,  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  in 
charge  of  parties  surveying  the  delta  of  the  Yukon  Rivei',  Scammon  Bay,  and  Stuart 
Island  in  1899. 

Information  collected  from  navigators  at  Seattle,  Wash.,  by  J.  F.  Pratt,  Assistant, 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey. 

Memoranda  furnished  by  Mr.  Samuel  Applegate,  of  Unalaska. 

The  information  thus  obtained  has  been  revised  as  far  as  possible,  and  much  additional 
matter  added,  by  Lieut.  D.  H.  Jarvis,  U.  S.  R.  C.  S.,  who  was  detailed  by  tlio  United  Sta.tes 
Revenue-Cutter  Service  for  this  duty. 

As  absolute  accuracy  in  a  worlc  of  this  class  is  scarcely  possible,  navigators  will  confer 
a  favor  by  notifying  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  of  errors  which 
they  may  discover,  or  of  additional  matter  which  they  think  should  be  inserted  iov  the 
information  of  mariners.  It  is  the  iutenti(jn  of  tlio  Office  to  extend  this  publication  as 
rapidly  as  possible  to  include  all  portions  of  Alaska  west  of  Yakutat  Bay,  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  and  tlie  Arctic  Ocean  east  of  Point  Barrow,  and  the  coopei'ation  of  navigators  is 
requested  to  this  end. 

HENMY  S.  PItlTCHETT, 

Superintendent. 


(3) 


AGEXCIES  t)X  THE  PACIFIC  COAST  FOR  THE  SAEE  OF  THE  CHARTS,  COAST 
PILOTS,  AXD  TIDE  TABLES  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  COAST  AJiD  GEODETIC 
SURA'EY. 


San  Diego,  Cal. 

E.  M.  BURBECK,  1051  Fifth  St. 

Newport  Beach,  Cal. 

JOSEPH  H,  DIXON, 

Santa  Ana,  Cal. 

E.  S.  WALLACE. 

Long  Beach,  Cal. 

FRANK  L.  WINGARD. 

San  Pedro,  Cal. 

BEN  EDELMAN. 

Los  Angeles,  Cal. 

STOLL  &  THAYER  CO.,  253  South  Spring  St 
LAZARUS  &  MELZER,  Los  Angeles  and  Com 
mercial  Sts. 

Santa  Barbara,  Cal. 

H.  A.  C.  McPHAIL,  705  State  St. 

San  Francisco,  Cal. 

S.  S,  ARNHEIM,  S  Steuart  St. 
LOUIS  WEULE,  418  Battery  St. 
DILLON  &  CO..  310  California  St. 
H.  LAWRENSON,  0  Market  St. 
J.  C.  PASCOE,  305  Battery  St. 

Eureka,  Cal. 

JAMES  B.  MATHEWS,  Cor.  Second  and  G  Sts. 

Monterey,  Cal., 

FRANCIS  M.  HILBY. 

Mendocino,  Cal. 

WILLIAM  MULLEN. 

Crescent  City,  Cal. 
WM.  F.  WULF. 

Tillamook,  Oreg. 

B.  C.  LAMB. 

Astoria,  Oreg. 

GRIFFIN  &  REED,  504  Conimorcial  St. 

Portland,  Oreg. 

THE  J.  K.  GILL  CO.,  Cor.  Third  and  Alder  Sts. 

Marshfield,  Oreg. 

F.  P.  NORTON. 

Port  Townsend,  Wash. 

WATERMAN  &  KATZ. 
W.  J.  FRITZ   320  Watnr  St. 

Everett,  "Wash. 

SWALWELL     BOOK    AND     STATIONERY 
COMPANY 


Seattle,  Wash. 

THE  CALVERT  COMPANY,  716  First  Ave. 
LOWMAN  &  HANFORD  STATIONERY  AND 

PRINTING  COMPANY,  61(i  First  Ave. 
G.   BENINGHAUSEN,  First  Ave.   South  and 

Washington  Sts. 
MAX  KUNBR,  29  Colman  Block. 

Tacoma,  Wash. 

VAUGHAN  &  MORRILL  CO.,  920  Pacific  Ave. 

Anacortes,  Wash. 

J.  H.  HAVEKOST. 

New^  Whatcom,  Wash. 

C.  M.  SHERMAN. 

Port  Angeles,  Wash. 

BEN  C.  KELLER, 

Hoquiam,  Wash. 

BRUCE  &  LAMB. 

Blaine,  Wash. 

J,  W,  HALL. 

Victoria,  B.  C. 

J,  JOHNSTON,  77  Government  St. 

T.  N.  HIBBEN  &  CO.,  69  Government  St. 

Vancouver,  B.  C. 

THOMSON  STATIONERY  CO,,  108  Cordova  St. 
CLARKE  &  STUART,  1 1  Cordova  St. 

Juneau,  Alaska. 

G,  W,  (iARSIDE. 

Sitka,  Alaska. 

EDWARD  De  GROFF. 

Skaguay,  Alaska. 

MISS  J.  BROWNE. 

Dutch  Harbor,  Alaska. 

J.  STANLEY-BROWN. 

Fort  Wrangel,  Alaska. 

C.  W.  FEIKERT. 

St.  Michael,  Alaska. 

E.  T.  BALDWIN. 

Haines,  Alaska. 

VV.  W.  WARNE. 

Honolulu,  H.  I. 

HAWAIIAN  NEWS  CO. 


(5) 


irsriTED  STATES  COAST  AXD  GEODETIC  SURVEY  CHARTS  AXD  3IAPS  OF  BERING 

SEA  AND  ARCTIC  OCEAN. 


Catalogue 
Number. 


T 

3091 
3093 
3093 
3094 
3098 

ysoo 

9100 
8981 
8993 
9007 
9008 
9191 


8833 
9370 
9372 
9373 
9375 


9381 


General  Cbart  of  Alaska 

Territory  of  Alaska,  Southeast  Section,  map 

Territory  of  Alaska,  Southwest  Section,  map 

Territory  of  Alaska,  Northwest  Section,  map 

Territory  of  Alaska,  Northeast  Section,  map 

Yukon  Rivei',  map- 

Alaska  Peninsula  and  Aleutian  Islands  to  Seguam  Pass. 
Aleutian  Islands  from  Yunaska  Islriud  to  Attn  Island... 

Akun  Cove.  Akun  Island 

Pribilof  Islands 

Unalaska  Bay,  Iliuliuk  and  Dutch  Harbors 

Dutch  Harbor 

Harbors  and  Anchorages  in  Southwestern  Alaska  .   

Southwest  Anchorage,  Chirikof  Island 

Bay  of  Islands,  Adakh  Island 

Constantine  Harbor,  Amchitka  Island  

Kiska  Harbor 

Cape  Etolin,  Nunivak  Island  

Port  Moller  and  Heredeen  Bay 

Cape  Dyer  to  St.  Michael  .  

Yukon  River,  Aproon  Mouth  _ 

Yukon  River,  Kwiklok  Mouth. 

St.  Michael  Bay 

Sub  Sketch— 

Pt.  Romanof  to  St.  Michael 

Entrance  to  Port  Safety 


Proportioual. 


3, 600, 000 

1 
1,200,000 

1 

1, '200, 000 

1 

1,200,000 

_^^ 

1,200,000 

J 

1,200,000 

1 


1,200,000 

_   J 

1,200,000 

1 
50,000 

1 


20, 000 
1 

40, 000 
1 

10,000 


Inches  to 
Stiitnte  Jlilc. 


0.  0'3 

0.05 
0.05 
0.0,i 
0. 05 
0. 05 
0.  05 
0.  05 
1.27 
3.17 
1.58 
G.34 


300, 000 

1 
80, 000 

1_ 

80,000 

1 
30,000 

1 
300, 000 

_  J^ 

15, 000 


1.47 
1.92 
1.47 
2.35 
3.17 
.7!) 
0.24 
0.79 
0.79 
3.17 

0.32 

4.8 


Date  of  last 
Edition. 


1899 

1898 
1898 
1898 
1898 
1898 
1899 
189C 
1889 
1899 
1898 
1900 
1893 


19(10 
1899 
1899 
1899 
1897 


1900 


SO.  50 
0.25 
0.25 
0.25 
0.35 
0.25 
0.  50 
0.50 
0.10 
0.25 
0.10 
0.25 
0.20 


0. 25 
0.50 
0. 25 
0.25 
0.50 


0.25 


U.  S.  Hydnigraphic  Office  CJiart  No.  68,  Bering  Sea  and  Arctic  Ocean,  and  British 
Admiralty  Chart  No.  593,  Point  Rodney  to  Point  Barrow,  are  useful  and  necessary  charts 
in  navigating  these  waters.     U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Charts  Nos.  9S80,  Norton 
Sound,  scale  ^vrulooo'  ^^^  ^"^^  (Mercator),  Bering  Sea,  Eastern  Part,  scale  i-joS^ooo'  '"'ith  a  sub- 
etch  of  Port  Clarence,  are  in  preparation. 

(6) 


BERING  SEA. 


Note. — In  iliis  puhlicalion  all  heariinjs  are  vtagiietic,  all  distances  are  in  vnntical  miles. 


GENERATj  EEMARKS.— The  portions  (jf  Bering  Sea  liere  treated  include  the  Fox 
Islands  Passes,  Unalaska  Bay,  and  the  coast  and  islands  of  Alaska  lying  northward  and 
eastward  of  the  lOO-fatliom  line,  whicli  extends  from  the  west  end  of  Uniniak  Island  to  a 
point  about  30  miles  soutliwaril  of  St.  George  Island.  Excejiting  a  few  localities,  this  terri- 
tory has  not  been  surveyed,  and  the  charts  of  it  are  mily  compilations  from  various  sources, 
with  corrections  made  from  later  information  received;  the  charts  are  necessarily  imperfect 
and  must  not  be  followed  implicitly,  especially  when  in  tlie  vicinity  of  the  shore.  Then, 
too,  the  currents  are  much  influenced  by  the  winds,  and  are  inqjcrfectly  known  and  difficult 
to  predict,  so  that  positions  by  dead  reckoning  are  iincertain  and  safety  depends  upon  con- 
stant vigilance. 

Northward  and  eastward  of  the  100-fathoni  line  the  waters  of  Bering  Sea  shoal  grad- 
ually to  the  coast.  There  are  no  dangers  iu  the  open  sea,  unless  the  Pribilof  Islands, 
St.  Lawrence  Island,  St.  Matthew  Island,  King  Ishuid,  and  Diomede  Islands  be  considered 
as  such.  Tliese,  being  volcanic  in  character  and  rocky,  are  generally  bold-to,  and  in 
ajjproaching  them  in  thick  weather  the  lead  can  not  be  depended  ux)on  at  all  times  to  keep 
clear  of  them.  The  coast  of  the  mainland  from  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay  to  St.  Michael, 
including  Nunivak  Island,  is  characterized  by  extensive  banks,  formed  by  deposits  from  the 
rivers,  which  extend  many  miles  from  shore,  iu  some  cases  out  of  sight  of  land.  Some  of 
tliese  shoals  are  believed  to  be  c[uite  steep-to  on  their  seaward  faces,  making  it  unsafe  to 
shoal  the  water  to  less  than  10  fathoms  when  in  their  vicinity. 

In  this  region,  where  fog  and  thick  weather  are  the  rule  during  the  season  of  navigation, 
safety,  when  near  the  coast,  depends  on  the  use  of  the  lead,  which,  on  account  of  the  gener- 
ally regular  bottom,  will  indicate  the  approach  to  danger.  In  general,  all  the  shores  of 
Bering  Sea  and  the  Arctic  Ocean  are  shallow,  and  when  coasting  it  should  be  observed  as  a 
rule  to  keep  the  lead  going  constantly,  and  when  north  of  St.  Michael  never  to  shoal  the 
water  to  less  than  5  fathoms  unless  feeling  your  way  in  to  the  land.  Between  St.  Michael 
and  tlie  head  of  Bristol  Bay  the  water  should  not  be  shoaled  to  less  than  10  fathoms  under 
the  same  conditions. 

There  are  no  aids  to  navigation.  All  of  the  rocky  islands  and  rocky  cliffs  of  the  main- 
land are  frecpiented  by  thousands  of  birds,  whose  numbers,  constant  cries,  and  flight  serve 
to  indicate  the  ajjproach  to  shore  at  these  places  in  thick  weather. 

The  coast  of  Alaska  from  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay  to  Point  Barrow  and  eastward  has 
driftw<jod,  wliich  is  brought  down  from  the  interior  by  the  rivers  and  carried  by  the 
northerly  currents  of  the  sea.  Good  water  can  always  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  high  land. 
Salmon  are  plentiful  diii-ing  the  o])en  season  in  all  the  streams  as  far  north  as  Kotzebue 
Sound,  and  cod  are  very  plentiful  in  tlie  vicinity  of  the  passes  and  in  Bristol  Bay. 

ICE.— Except  in  bays  and  sheltered  places,  the  ice  of  Birring  Sea  consists  of  detached 
fields,  lloes,  and  cakes,  which  are  continually  kept  in  motion,  breaking  up,  piling,  and  tele- 
scoping by  the  action  of  variable  winds  and  currents.  At  no  time  is  the  sea  one  solid  sheet 
of  ice,  and  in  the  winter,  while  it  is  forming,  it  is  more  scattered  than  iu  the  spring,  when 
the  nortlioily  movement  has  begun,  and  it  packs  closer  together.  The  general  southern 
limit  of  ice  is  from  Bristol  Bay  to  tlie  vicinity  of  St.  George  Island,  and  thence  about  west- 
northwest  to  the  Siberian  shore.     The  southern  edge  is  ragged  and  very  much  scattered,  and 

(7) 


8  BULLETIN   NO.  40 SECOND    EDITION. 

continued  northerly  winds  sometimes  drive  fields  of  it  far  southward.  As  a  rule,  no  heavy 
ice  will  be  encountered  south  of  the  Pribilof  Islands,  and  the  ice  in  their  vicinity  is  likely  to 
be  nothing  more  than  detached  fields. 

The  ice  conditions  in  Bristol  Bay  have  so  far  received  little  notice.  Reports  have  been 
received  that  the  bay  is  usually  free  from  heavy  ice  between  the  middle  of  May  and  June 
10.  In  1S99  the  steamer  Jeanie,  of  1,000  tons  and  a  draft  of  18  feet,  reached  Clarks  Point 
in  Nushagak  River  on  April  4,  and  was  discharged  on  April  15.  At  this  time  the  ice  in  the 
river  above  Fort  Alexander  remained  solid,  but  two  weeks  afterwards  it  broke  up  and  came 
down  the  river  in  large  pieces,  which  would  have  endangered  any  vessel  at  anchor.  In 
approaching  the  Nushagak  River  some  ice  was  encountered  about  75  miles  from  Cape  Con- 
stautine,  but  not  sufficient  to  seriously  interfere  with  navigation.  In  1896,  on  May  10,  a 
vessel  bound  for  Bristol  Bay  was  brought  up  by  the  ice  which  extended  from  Point  Moller 
to  St.  George  Island,  and  she  was  not  able  to  reach  the  Nushagak  River  until  thirty  days 
later.  It  is  within  reason  to  believe  that  some  years  Bristol  Bay  is  open  to  navigation  all 
winter,  though  the  rivers  and  sheltered  bays  are  closed. 

In  the  spring,  beginning  with  April,  there  is  a  general  movement  of  the  ice  to  the 
northward,  the  shores  clearing  ahead  of  the  center  of  the  sea;  but  it  sometimes  hangs  in 
the  bays  and  around  the  islands  later  than  in  the  open  sea.  Seasons  vary,  the  movement 
and  position  of  the  ice  depending  greatly  on  the  direction  of  the  winds.  Generally,  how- 
ever, by  June  1  the  whole  body  of  ice  is  well  up  Avith  St.  Lawrence  Island,  and  a  passage 
opens  to  its  west  side.  The  eastern  side  of  the  sea  is  likely  to  be  obstructed  a  little  later  than 
the  western  side,  and  ice  is  often  met  between  St.  Lawrence  Island  and  Nunivak  Island  in  the 
early  part  of  June.  The  breaking  out  of  the  rivers  toward  the  latter  part  of  May  clears 
tlie  shores,  but  the  ice  is  likely  to  hold  in  Norton  Sound  several  weeks  later. 

In  general,  for  a  vessel  not  fitted  to  encounter  ice,  Norton  Sound  is  not  navigable  before 
the  middle  of  June,  often  not  before  June  20  to  25,  and  has  been  known  to  be  as  late  as 
July  10.  On  entering  the  sound  about  this  time,  strips  of  ice  are  often  encountered  after  the 
sound  can  be  said  to  be  navigable.  From  the  deck  these  may  appear  extensive  and  solid, 
but  from  aloft  clear  water  may  be  seen  beyond  and  through  them.  At  the  opening  of  navi- 
gation the  ice  is  likely  to  be  heaviest  and  to  remain  longest  on  the  north  shore,  and,  in 
general,  it  is  the  last  of  June  before  that  part  of  the  sound  is  altogether  clear. 

In  the  fall  young  ice  begins  to  form  on  the  rivers,  and  in  the  bays  and  sheltered  places 
after  October  1,  and  grows  stronger  and  spreads  according  to  the  severity  of  the  advancing 
season.  Navigation  is  considered  unsafe  in  Norton  Sound  after  October  15.  In  the  first 
week  of  October,  1897,  three  river  steamers  were  frozen  in  in  one  night  about  5  miles  from 
the  Apoon  mouth  of  the  Yukon  River,  the  ice  being  heavy  enough  to  walk  ashore  on.  A 
strong  southwest  wind  afterwards  broke  up  the  ice  and  raised  the  water  sufficiently  for  them 
to  get  into  the  mouth  of  the  river.  On  October  21,  of  the  same  year,  a  small  steamer  was 
frozen  in  and  lauded  her  cargo  on  the  ice  1^  miles  from  St.  Michael ;  afterwards  the  ice 
broke  up,  and  the  vessel  was  considered  fortunate  to  get  out  at  such  a  late  date. 

crRRENTS. — There  has  been  no  systematic  study  of  the  currents  of  Bering  Sea,  and 
the  almost  constant  fogs  prevent  the  navigator  from  adding  much  to  o'ur  meager  knowledge 
conceriiing  them.  It  is  said  that  in  general  the  currents  are  greatly  influenced  by  the  tide 
and  winds.  The  following  observations  apply  to  the  open  season,  when  the  flow  of  the 
currents  is  not  obstructed  by  ice. 

Between  Cape  Cheerful  and  St.  George  Island  the  current  is  not  believed  to  have  any 
decided  set  or  flow  unless  influenced  by  the  wind.  With  a  strong  wind  a  current  is  likely 
to  set  with  it,  but  J  point  allowance  in  a  course  will  be  sufficient  to  overcome  any  set  that 
will  be  found  in  this  vicinity  due  to  this  cause. 

Between  St.  Matthew  aiul  Nunivak  islands  the  set  of  the  current  is  to  the  northward; 
with  prevailing  northeast  winds  it  sets  northwest,  and  with  northwest  and  southwest  winds, 
northeast.  This  northerly  current  continues  and  increases  between  St.  Lawrence  Island 
and  the  mainland,  being  stronger  toward  the  mainland  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon 


BERING    SEA    AND    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  9 

River,  where  it  amounts  to  aljout  1  knot,  except  in  the  early  summer,  when,  increased  by 
the  freshets  in  the  Yukon,  it  may  amount  to  2  knots  or  more.*  The  current  sets  north 
across  Norton  Sound  to  Sledge  Island  and  then  follows  the  coast  to  Bering  Strait.  It  is 
strongly  marked  between  Sledge  Island  and  Bering  Strait. 

In  Bering  Strait  the  current  sets  north,  and  when  not  influenced  by  wind  its  rate  is 
about  2  knots  an  hour.  Protracted  northerly  gales,  which  prevail  in  the  autumn,  change 
its  direction  to  the  southward,  but  on  the  cessation  of  the  wind  it  (juickly  sets  north  again. 
Strong  southerly  gales  increase  its  rate  to  3  knots.  The  eiirrent  is  stronger  east  of  the 
Diomede  Islands  than  west  of  them. 

A  current  sets  strongly  from  Cape  Newenham  through  Etolin  Strait. 

TIDAL  STREAMS. — In  the  southern  part  of  Bering  Sea,  inside  the  100-fathom  line, 
and  through  the  various  passes  in  the  Aleutian  Islands,  the  tidal  stream  sets  nortliward  or 
nnrtlieastward  during  the  rising  tide,  and  southward  or  southwestward  during  the  falling 
tide.  In  some  of  the  jjasses  it  sometimes  has  a  velocity  of  liA  knots  an  liour;  when  clear  of 
the  passes  its  maximum  velocity  is  about  24  knots.  At  the  Pribilof  Islands,  Nuuivak,  St. 
Matthew,  Hail,  and  St.  Lawrence  Islands  the  tidal  currents  are  strongly  marked.  The 
flood  cui-rent  sets  eastward  and  northward  and  the  ebb  westward  and  southward.  In  Bristol 
Bay  the  tidal  currents  are  very  strong.  They  are  also  strong  at  the  Kuskokwim  River 
and  north  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  being  especially  so  in  the  Etolin  Strait  and  about 
Cai>e  Vancouver. 

F<>(;  is  most  prevalent  during  spring,  summer,  and  early  fall,  and  it  generally  begins  to 
clear  about  the  middle  of  October.  In  summer  fog  is  almost  continuous,  but  few  days  are 
clear  from  morning  to  night,  and  the  tops  of  the  mountains  can  seldom  be  seen.  At  the 
surface  of  tlie  water  it  is  generally  suflicientl}^  clear  to  make  out  the  shore  at  a  distance  of 
;i  or  4  miles,  Init  at  times  it  is  so  thick  that  nothing  can  be  made  out,  and  ujider  such  con- 
ditions strangers  should  not  attempt  to  make  the  land.  During  the  summer  months  the 
mist  and  fog  are  considered  to  be  worse  on  the  south  side  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  than  on 
the  north  side  in  their  immediate  vicinity. 

WEATHER. — The  most  striking  feature  aboiit  the  weather  in  Bering  Sea  is  its  great 
uncertainty  throughout  the  year.  Good  weather  is  rare  and  not  lasting,  and  the  winds  can 
not  be  depended  upon  to  remain  long  in  one  quarter.  The  late  spring  and  summer  are  mild 
and  very  foggy,  with  frequent  periods  of  light  weather,  comparatively  few  strong  winds, 
and  considerable  rain.  After  September  1,  gales  become  frequent  and  heavy,  fogs  gradually 
lessen,  and  toward  the  latter  part  of  the  month  snow  often  accompanies  the  storms.  During 
all  the  fall,  gales  are  frequent,  violent,  and  from  almost  any  (|uarter. 

During  the  fall  and  winter  there  are  often  periods  of  very  low  barometer  (readings  below 
2!'. 00  being  common)  accompanied  by  moderate  to  strong  gales,  with  rain  or  snow.  These 
gales,  tiiough  sometimes  very  severe,  are  usually  not  so  strong  as  would  be  expected  by  the 
fall  of  the  Ijarometer.  After  December  and  continuing  into  the  s])ring  there  are  often  periods 
of  moderate  weather,  and  while  severe  gales  occur,  they  are  less  frequent  than  in  the  fall. 
Strong  winds  or  gales  from  any  qmirter  always  bring  thick  weather,  rain,  or  snow.  With 
easterly  or  southerly  winds  the  rain  is  continuous,  while  with  W(^sterly  or  northerly  winds 
the  rain  or  snow  occurs  at  intervals  in  squalls,  and  when  the  wind  subsides  the  weather  is 
likely  to  be  clear. 

Southeast  storms,  with  falling  barometer  and  rising  teiuiierature,  are  almost  invariably 
preceded  by  an  ^inusual  clearness  of  the  air;  cirrus  clouds  are  seen  to  the  southwestward, 
which  gradually  thicken  and  overspread  the  sky.  The  wind  usually  shifts  to  the  south- 
westward  when  the  barometer  ceases  to  fall,  but  it  sometimes  backs  from  southeast  to  north- 
east, and  generally  goes  to  northwest  before  subsiding.  Upon  aliasing,  tln^  stoi'ui  is  followed 
by  light  westerly  winds  and  comjjaratively  clear  weather. 


*  .\  Vi-ry  wtnint;  luiitlu'iish-rlj'  I'Uirciit  scttiii;^  i>ii  the  Yukon  tlatH  litis  liccll  ulisiTv.  il,  iiiininiitiiis;  ut  tiiiirs  tu  'J'.^  knots. 
17789 2 


10 


J3ULLKTIN    NO.   40 SECOND    EDITION. 

MAIL  ROUTES. 


From  San  Francisco  to  Unalaska,  St.  Michael,  and  points  along  tlie  Yiikon  River :  About 
May  25,  Julj'  25,  and  Auyust  15,  1900. 

From  Seattle  to  Unalaska,  St.  Michael,  and  points  along  the  Yukon  River :  About  May  25, 
June  25,  and  July  25,  1900. 

From  Sitka  to  Unalaska:  Once  a  month  from  April  to  October,  1900. 

From  St.  Michael  to  Golofnin  and  Nome :  About  the  1st,  9th,  17th,  and  25th  of  each  month. 

From  St.  Michael  to  Eaton,  Nulato  (uo  oflfice),  Koyukuk,  and  Tanana:  Two  round  trips 

a  month. 

VARIATION  OF  THE  COMPASS. 

The  magnetic  variations  for  1000  and  annual  decrease  at  points  mentioned  are  as  follows : 


LOCM.ITV. 


Cape  Pankof 

Uiiimak  Pass ,. 

Unalaska  Bay 

Amiikta  Pass _ . . 

St.  George  Island 

St.  Paul  Islaud  

Port  Moller 

Cape  Coiistantine 

Cape  Newenliain 

West  of  Nuiiivak  Island  (1.5  miles) . . .   . 

Cape  Upright,  St.  Mattliew  Island 

Cape  CliiVm  ialc,  St.  Lawrence  Island.-. 
East  of  .St.  Lawrence  Island  (li'i  miles). 

Cape  Romanzof ^ _ . 

St.  Michael .. 

Unalaklik  _ 

Cape  Darl)}- 

Cape  Nome ... . 

Sledge  Island 

Point  Sj)encer __. 

King  Island   ...    . .  _ 

Diomede  Islands 

East  Caiie 

We.st  of  Ca])e  Prince  of  Wales  {5  miles). 

Cape  Espenberg 

Chami.sso  Island,  Kotzebne  Sound 

Cape  Blossom 

Point  Hope 

Cape  Lisburne 

Point  Lay . 

Icy  Cape 

Point  Belcher 

Point  Franklin 

Point  Barrow _ 


Varia- 
tion. 


19  E. 

m 

Hi 
16 


Annual 
de- 


m 

30i 

2()i- 

18 

m 

17 
19 
19 
23 
23 
23 
30f 

m 

20. Vl 
2(4 
19+ 
19. 

23.4 

23j 
23 

38i 
364 
2« 


4 
3i 
8" 
3 


i7(?);  u 


3 

4 

4* 

5 
5 

7 

i 

6 

6i 

7 

7 


7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7A 

8" 

H 

9i 

10' 


29i  [  10 
29i  I  11 
83       12 


TIDES— GENERAL  TABLE.* 

Note. — Tropic  tides  are  those  which  occur  near  the  time  of  the  moon's  greatest  declina- 
tion either  north  or  south.     The  tropic  lunitidal  intervals  are  marked  a  or  b. 

a  Indicates  that  an  upper  transit  is  to  be  added  to  the  interval  when  the  declination  is 
north,  and  a  lower  transit  to  be  added  when  the  declination  is  south. 

b  Indicates  that  a  lower  transit  is  to  be  added  to  the  interval  when  the  declination  is 
north,  and  an  upper  transit  to  be  added  when  the  declination  is  south. 

The  plane  of  reference  referred  to  in  the  fable  is  the  plane  to  which  the  soundings  on 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  charts  are  reduced,  and  corresponds  to  the  plane  of  mean  lower 
low  water. 

At  places  where  the  tides  are  chiefly  diurnal — that  is,  usually  having  only  one  high  and 
one  low  in  twenty-four  hours— the  interval  and  range  of  the  semidiurnal  tides  are  inclosed 


BERIXG    SEA    AND    AKCTIC    OCEAN. 


11 


in  lirackets.  These  comparatively  small  semidmrnal  tides,  ha^dng  two  high  and  two  low 
waters  each  day,  occur  near  the  times  of  the  moon's  zero  declination  for  perhaps  a  month 
or  more  on  either  side  of  the  equinoxes. 

To  find  the  time  of  high  or  low  water.— At  all  the  stations  in  this  table,  except 
those  having  bracketed  values,  use  the  lunitidal  intervals  under  "Mean  tides"  for  a  period 
of  two  days  before  and  four  days  after  the  moon's  zero  declination,  adding  them  to  both 
upper  and  lower  transits;  and  use  the  lunitidal  intervals  under  "Tropic  tides"  at  other 
times,  paying  attention  to  the  marking  a  or  b. 

At  places  having  bracketed  values  for  "Mean  tides  "  there  is  usually  only  one  high  and 
one  low  water,  except  within  a  month  or  more  on  either  side  of  the  equinoxes,  at  which 
times,  for  a  period  of  two  days  before  and  four  days  after  the  moon's  zero  declination,  use 
the  bracketed  intervals,  adding  them  to  both  upper  and  lower  transits.  At  other  times  use 
the  hmitidal  intervals  xmder  "Tropic  tides,"  applying  them  according  to  the  marking 
a  or  b. 


NAME. 


Geogbaphicai.  Position, 


Lati- 
tude. 


ALASKA. 

Aleutian  Islands. 

Dutch  Harlior,  Uiialaska  Island. 

Adakh  Island 

Kiska  Island 

Attu  Island 

Bering  Sea. 

St.  Paul  Island,  Pribilof  Islands. 

Goorinews  Ba.v 

Kuskokwim  Bay 

St.  Matthew  Island 

St.  Lawrence  Island 

Norton  Sound. 

Cape  Ronian7(.f 

Kripniyuk,  Yukon  Uelta 

Kwikliiwak  Pas.**,  Yukon  Delta. 
Kwikpak  Pas-s,  Yukiin  I>elta__. 

A| ri  Pass,  Yok.in  Delta 

PikniiktJitik 

Canal  Point 

St.  Michael 

North  Bav,  Stuart  Islaad 

GolofninBay 

Cape  Nome 

Port  Clarence 

Arctic  Ocean. 

Chamisso Island,  KotzebueSd  _. 

Point  Barrow 

ilerschel  Island 

SIBERIA. 

Bering  Sea — Continued. 

St.  Lawrence  Bay 

Pluver  Bay _ 

.\nailir  Bay 

(;ape  Oliutorsk 

Bering  l.,Konuindorski  Islands 


m  63 
61  49 

61  49 

62  66 


67  08 

59  02 
f<9  40 

60  20 
m  20 


61  49 

62  20 

62  37 

63  00 
63  05 
63  16 
63  24 
63  29 

63  37 

64  32 

64  29 

65  17 


66  15 
71  18 
6S  37 


65  38 
64  22 
64  43 
69  55 
55  14 


Longitude. 


166  32 
176  .62 
182  30 
186  48 


170  18 
161  46 
161  50 
\Ti  26 
170  UU 


166  05 
li;5  19 
164  51 
104  45 

163  32 
162  34 
162  23 
162  02 
162  30  J 
103  00  ' 

164  46 
lliO  61 


LlNITlDAL  lNTEIt\  AI,. 


161  45  10  47 
1.56  40  10  27 
138  66         9  16 


189  00 
186  38  I 
178  20 
170  21 
165  62 


12  36 
12  27 
11  63 
11  21 
11  03 


High 
water. 


;..  m. 

11  06 

11  47 

12  M 
12  27 


11  21 

10  47 

10  47 

11  3" 
11  20 


11  01 

II  01 
10  .59 
10  .59 
10  .54 
1(J  .5(1 

III  49  i 
10  48 
10  .50 

10  r,-i 

10  50 

11  07 


h.  VI. 
3  50 
3  25 
3  311 
3  35 


4  17 
6  15 
6  25 

4  40 

5  36 


12  00 
0  60 

3  o5 
2  42 

6  ,60 

7  lo 

7  28' 

8  06' 
7  .50' 
6  05" 

"2  49 

4  00 


7  45 
11  41 
4  60 


0  101 

5  321 

6  05] 
00 

4  00 


Low 
water. 


Jk  m. 
9  68 
9  38 
9  43 
9  48 


10  29 
0  15 


11  00 
11  .60 


5  50 

7  10 
10  .50 

9  56 
I  Oil 
1  46 
I  30 

1  20 

2  30' 
112  00 

8  26 
10   10 


1  50 
5  33 
11  05 


12  10 

11  32' 

12  0.6' 
12  15' 
10  13 


Tropic  tides. 


Higher    Lower 
high         low 
water,     water. 


Range  of  Tiok. 


A.  n». 
5  46« 
4  .5311 
4  56.1 
4  67.1 


6  16.1 

7  38a 

7  1 8.1 
0  27.1 

8  Olii 


11   2.5.1 

0  ml, 

1  59(- 
1  431, 
6  hull 
6  10/. 

6  40t 

7  066 
6  501, 
5  0.56 
1  346 
3  166 


7  34<i 
11  20.1 
5  17a 


6  176 

4  39(. 
6  126 

5  006 
3  036 


li.  111. 
9  606 
9  326 
9  376 
9  426 


10  376 
0  21a 

0  2!l,i 

11  IIS6 

12  016 


6  1.56 

7  416 
II  396 
10  .■(96 

2  30(1 

3  1.5,1 

3  40a 
2  52.1 

4  00.1 
0  0.6a 
9  226 

10  436 


1  39a 
5  12a 
12  086 


14  456 
14  106 
14  406 
12  276 
10  266 


Mean. 

(Mu.) 


Fei-t. 
2.3 
4.0 
4.1 
4.5 


2.1 
4.1 

10.1 
2.4 


1.3 

0.4 
1.8 


Great 

tropic. 
(Uc.) 


Feel. 
6.0 
7.6 
7.7 
8.3 


4.0 

6.7 

14.2 

4.4 

2.8 


7.4 
6.8 
2.4 
3.1 
4.8 
6.0 
4.9 
4.5 
4.1 
4.3 
4.0 
4.5 


Mean 
diurnal.  H.W.Q. 
^Gt. 


1.8 
0.7 
2.9 


4.2 
4.4 
10.5 
4.8 
5.0 


Feel. 
4.3 
B.7 
6.8 
7.4 


3.6 
6.0 
13.2 
3. 9 
2.4 


6.3 
2.2 
2  8 
3.  6 
3.8 
3.6 
3.3 
3.0 
3.2 
3.3 
4.1 


1.7 
0.  6 
2.6 


3.2 
S.3 
7.8 
4.4 

4.6 


Ftcl. 
1.5 
2.0 
2.0 
2.1 


0.0 

0.8 
1.3 
0.6 
0.6 


1.2 
1.3 


F^el. 
4.4 
6.8 
5.8 
6.1 


3,6 
4.9 
7.7 
3.7 

2.7 


3.1 
2.7 
1.6 
1.8 


1.1  1 

1.7 


0.7 
0.4 
1.6 


0.7  1 
0.7 


1.4 
2.4 


0.2 
0.1 
0.9 


2.8 
2.9 


Feel. 
0.4 
0.6 
0.5 
0.6 


0.3 
0.4 
0.5 
0.4 
0.2 


0.  1 
0.1 
0.6 
0.6 
0.5 
O.li 
0.6 
0.6 
0.3 
0.2 


(1.1 
(I.  1 
I".  1 


1.4 

0.  2 


•  Tide  tallies  for  the  Pjicific  coast,  publislie.l  anonally  hy  the   Unito.l  States  Coast  ami  Geodetic  Survey,  predicting 
tides  for  every  day  of  the  year,  can  be  obtained  from  the  agents  named  in  the  list  given  on  page  5;  price,  10  cents. 


the  times  and  heij^tits  of 


12 


BULLEXm    NO.   40 SECOND    EDITION. 


TIDE  TABI.E-ST.  3UCHAEL.  (XOKTOX  SOUXD),  AliASKA,   11K)0. 


The  harbor  of  St.  Michael, NortoD  Souiul, 
isi>pfii  tn  navigation,  onini  average,  by  the 
iiiicidle  of  .III lie.  t lie  time  of  breaking  up  of 
the  ice  varying  from  about  the  last  week 
ol  May  to  tlie  last  week  of  June.  The  sea- 
son of  navigation  usually  closes  in  ibebit- 
ter  part  of  October. 

The  winds  in  suninieraro  gener;illy  mod- 
erate; but  (luring  September  andOctoiier 
gales  are  strong  and  li'eqiient.  nortlierly 
winds  pretlominating.  These  strong 
win<U  fli'e  of  sjiecial  iiaportance  to  man- 
ners on  account  of  tiieir  etiect  on  the 
height  of  the  water;  northerly  and  east- 
ei'ly  winds  lower  the  wjiter  and  southerly 
and  westerly  winds  raise  it.  With  north- 
erly winds  of  long  duraticui  the  amount  of 
ehiinge  may  be  as  much  as  5  feet  below 
mean  low  water. 


The  time  and  height  of  the  tide  at  tlie 
following  at;iti(>ns  may  be  found  by  apply- 
ing the  ditb-reiircs  ^iveu  below  to  the  jue- 
diclions  for  St.  Michael: 


.2     S 

Pi 

1.20 
1.11 
1.00 
0.98 
1.  00 

■1 
i 

•A 

^1           + 

a 

1 

Feel. 
+  0.9 
+  0.6 

0.0 
—  0.1 

0.0 

'•5 
H 

.*•  00  ^  O  CI  00 
.ooom  = 

"'++  ++ 

3 

6 

a 

-    ■  -  c    ■ 

£.  :  =  3  : 
<  :if   : 

a    •  S  =    • 

III 


JUNE. 


E    Til 

A 

w 


B  Day  of— 

o        

I    W.    il. 

■F      1 

S      2 

3 

4 
5 
6 

Th,  7  I 
F  8 
S      9 

S       10; 

M     U 

s    Tn    11' 

W    13 

Til    II 

F     15 

S     1« 

S     17 

I'    M     18 

«    Tn  19] 

\V    20 

Tb  21 

F     22 

S  ,23 


S 

NJM 

9  In  26 
Wj  27 
Th  28 
F     29 

s  'so 


Time  aud  Height  of  Higli  am" 
Low  water. 


9:46  .   18:55  . 

4. 1      — 0. 6  . 

10:32      19:18  . 

3.8—0.4  . 


11:24  19:37  . 

3.  3  — 0. 3  . 

12:10  19:54  . 

2.  8  — 0. 1  . 

13:04  20:12  . 

2.  3  U.  0  . 

13:55  20:34  . 

1. 7  0.  I  . 


6:03  13:08  15:05     21:00 

2.8  1.2  1.5        2.8 

5:20  14:00 

3.1  0.8 

5:40  14:43 

3.3  0.3 

6:00  15:32 

3. 6  0. 1 

6.25  16:16 

3.9  -0.2 

6:52  17:00 

4.2  —0.4 

7:20  17:35 

4.4  —0.6 

8:00  18:08 

4.5  —0.6 


8:37  18:36 

4.  5  —0. 5 

9:19  18:-17 

4.2  —0.4 


10:08  18:.i5     .      . 

3.9  —0.3     .     . 

11:00  19:011     .     . 

3.3  —0.2     .     . 

11:50  19:12     .     . 

2.7  0.0.. 


3:00  7:20  12:.iO       19  ::;.i 

2.  1  1.5  2  1           U.  1 

3:23  10:50  13:10       20:02 

2.7  1.4  15          0.2 

3:53  12:28 

3.3  0.7 

4:29  13:35 

3.7  0.2 

5:09  14:30 

4.2  —0.2 

5:.'il  15:20 

4.5  —0.5 

6:35  10:02 

4.6  —0.7 

7:17  16:43 

4.6  —0.7 


7:58  17:19 

4. 5  —0.  6 

8:41  17:48 

4.  2  —0. 5 

9:22  18:12 

3.  8  —0.  3 


JULY. 


B  Day  of— I 

a  w.  M.  I 
s     1 

EM      2 

i  ■    I 
A  Tu     3j 

p    \V  4 1 

Th  5 

F  6 

S  7 

S  8 

s    >1  9 

Tu  10 

.■n 

O  Th  12[ 

F     13 

S       II 

P    S     15 

E  M  Hi 
Tii   17 

<:  \V  18 
Th  19 
F  20 
S  !-21| 

I    I 

N I  S  '  22 1 


M 

23 

Tu 

24 

W 

25: 

Th  26 
F  27 
S  '28 
S  29 
M,30 
Tu'  31 


Tim©  and"  Height  of  High  and 
Low  Water. 


10:05  18:35  .     .     .      .   '.      . 

3.4  -0.2 

10:48  18:42 

2.9  0.0 

11:28  18:48     

2. 3  0.  1 

3:40  111:05 

2.  4  0.  1 

3:.'i:'l  19:35 

2.6  0.2 

4:05  19:55 

2.9  0.3 

4:22  20:02 

3.3  0.3 

4:45  14:34 

3.  5  0.  2 

5:07  15:10     

3. 8  0.  I 

5:40  15:50 

4.2  -0.3 

6:16  16:24 

4.4  —0.5 

6:57  16:53 

4.5  —0,4 

7:37  17:08 

4.4  —0.3 

8:23  17:18 

4.2  —0  2 

9.10  17.23 

3.8  0.(1 

10.04  17:311 

3. .)  0, 1 

1:10  4:15  1U:.18       17:54 

1.6  1,4  2.7  0.2 

1:32  6:01  11:58       18:26 

2.0  l.:'>  2  1  0.3 

1:52  8:25  13:03       18:55 

2.6  1.3  1.5          0.3 

2:35  10:52  14:12       19:24 

3.1  0.8  1.5  0.2 

3:18  12:10  17:07       19:45 

3.6  0  J  0.8          0.2 

3:57  13:1(1 

4. 0  0.  (I 

4:28  13:47 

4.2  —0.3 

3:10  14:34     

4.3  —0.3 

5:55  15:12 

4.3  —0.5 

6:40  13:J8 

4.2  —0.3 

7:20  16:15 

3. 9  —0.  1     .■ 

8:03  10:30     

3. 6  0.  1 

8:47  16:35 

3.2  0. 2 

9:37  16:45 

2.7  0.3  -     ....     . 
10:20  17:03 

2.  2  0.  3 


The  tidis  :in'  phuiil  in  the  onleiot  "iiurrenre,  with  tliiir  tinies  on  (hi-  lirst  lino  and  heights  on  the  second  lini- of  i-.uh  d:iy ; 
a  comparison  iif  con.'iecutivc  h..i.-hts  will  indicate  whedicr  it  i.s  hij;h  orl.iw  water. 

The  time  ii.icd  is  .Mean  Li>i':il  Civil  tor  the  nnTiili:iu  165°  VV. ;  0''  is  niiduisht.  12''  is  noon:  all  hours  less  than  12  are  in  the 
morning,  all  gre:iter  are  in  the  afternuon,  and  when  diminished  by  12  give  the  usual  reckoning;  for  instance,  l.".''  is  3  p.  m.  TI.e 
heiglits,  in  feet  and  tenths,  are  reckoned  from  the  I'hine  of  Mean  Diurnal  Lmv  U':it.-r.  which  is  apiiroximalely  the  datum  of 
soundings  on  the  Coast  :ind  C.codcdc  Survey  Charts  for  this  region,  and  which  is  1.5  feet  below  mean  sea  level.  .Symbols  and 
abbreviations  relating  to  the  moon:  ©. '"'w  moon:  J,  1st  qiiar.;  O- full  moon:  c.  3d  quae. ;  E,  moon  on  the  equator:  X,  S,  moon 
farthest  north  or  south  of  the  equator;  A,  P,  moon  in  apogee  or  perigee. 


BERING    SKA    AND    AIU'TIC    OCEAX. 


13 


TIDK  TABLE— ST.  MICIIAi:!.  (NORTON  SOUND),  AT.ASKA,   1!)00. 


AUGUST. 


g 

Day  of— 

s 

W. 

M. 

W 

1 

Th 

2 

!> 

F 

3 

S 

4 

S 

5 

Time  and  Hi'igtit  of  Higli  ami 
Low  WatiT. 


M  ,    6 
Til     7 

w;  8 

Th    9 
F  [10 

S  1 11 

s!i2 
M  13 ; 

Tu,  14 
1  W  15 
Til  16 


1 


F    17 


N'  S 


W:22 

Tb  23 

I 
F   24 

25 

S|26 

M   27 

Til  28 

j 

W,29 
Th  30 
F    31 


1:31 
2.1 

1:37 
2.4 

2:U5 
2.7 

2:30 
3.0 

3:00 
3.3 

3:32 
3.6 

4:10 
3.8 

4:48 
4.0 

5:32 
4.1 

6:17 
4.0 

7:06 
3.8 

0:10 
0.9 

1:40 
1.0 

3:10 
1.2 

4:46 
1.2 

6:28 
1.0 

0:38 

3.0 


2:20 
3.7 

3:10 
3.9 

4:00 
3.0 

4:48 
3.9 

5:35 
3.7 

6:20 
3.4 

7:05 
3.1 

0:.55 
1.4 

2:12 
1.4 

3:27 

1.4 

5:00 
1.4 

7:10 
1.3 


7:24  11:10      17:33 

1.4  1.8         0.4 

10:115  12:05      18:00 

1.4  1.5          0.5 

18:17 

0.6 

12:07 


0.7 
12:50 


0.3    . 


14:05 


-0.1 
14:34 


14:58  . 

—0.1  . 

15:08  . 

0.0  . 


0.2 


7:.')8  15:25  22:04 

3. 5  0. 3  1.5 

8:50  15:45  22:36 

3. 1  0.  5  1.  7 

9:52  16:15  23:16 

2.  5  0.  5  2.  2 

10:57  16:46  23:.50 

1.0  0.6  2.6 

12:06  17:18  .     .     . 

1.5  0.6  ..     . 

8:20  13:15  17:51 

0.  8  1.  5  0.  6 

10:11  14:.=i0  18:24 

0.  4  2.  0  0.  7 

11:18 


12:12 
—0.1 


14:15  20:30  22:31 

0.1  1,7  0.9 

14:38  20:51  23:40 

0.3  1.7  1.2 

14:55  21:31  .     .     . 

0.5  1.5  ..     . 

7:54  1S:I0  22:07 

2. 8  0. 6  1.7 

8:47  15:25  22:38 

2.  3  0.  7  2.  0 

9:36  15:41  22:.'i8 

1.9  0. 8  2. 2 

10:32  16:02  23:25 

1.  5  0.  9  2.  4 

11:30  16:24  23:57 

1. 5  0. 9  2. 6 

12:30  16:40  .      .     . 

1.8  0.9  ..     . 


SEPTEMBER. 


a  Dayof- 


^    W. 

1) !  s 

- 

sj  S 
M 
Tu 
W 
Th 
F 


Time  and  Hei^litof  High  ;iiiil 
Low  Wftlei-. 


ii« 


2 

3) 
4 

5; 

6 

7 

8 

p    S     9 

1     :     i 

M  10 

Tn  11 

\V  12 

Th  13 

F    14 

1 

N  s  1 15 ; 

« I    I    ( 

S    16 

M    17 

Tu  18 

I 

W   19 

! 

Th  20 
Fi21 

E    S    22  j 
9    S    23 

A  I 

M  ,  24 
Tu  25 
WJ26 
Th|  27 

F    28; 

1      I 
S    29 

S    30 


0:34  9:56  .  . 

2.9  0.6  .  . 

1:12  10:50  .  . 

3.1  0.4  .  . 

1:50  11:28  .  . 

3.4  0.2  .  . 

2. -.38  12:03  .  . 

3.5  0.1  .  . 

3:27  12:30  .  . 

3.  (1  0.  1  .  . 

4:1.")  12:3.T  .  . 

3.0  0.2  .  . 

5:10  12:47  .  . 

3.5  0. 3  .  . 


6:03  13:11  19  :.36     .     .     . 

3.2  0.5  1.5     ..     . 

0:00  6:58  13:36      20:08 

1.0  2.9  0.7           1.8 

1:14  8:00  14:11       20:47 

0.9  2.5  0.8          2.2 

2:35  9:08  14:3S       21:23 

0.8  2.1  0.9          2.6 

3:46  10:14  15:07       22:04 

0.7  1.6  0.9          3.0 

5:07  11:28  15:38      22:.55 

0.5  1.5  0.9          3.3 

6:43  12:48  10:10      23:47 

0.4  1.3  0.8          3.5 

8:18  14:15 

0.2  1.0 

0:45  9:25 

3.7  0.0 

l::i'.l  10:3(1 

3.7  0.0 

2:.I2  11:14 

3.0  0.0 


3:.30  11:47  18:20  21:12 

3.4  0.2  1.5  1.4 

4:18  12:11  18:48  22:27 

3.1  0.3  1.5  1.4 

5:14  12:30  19:18  21:43 

2.8  0.5  1.7  1.4 

6:13  12:.5n  10:46  .     .     . 

2.5  0.7  1.9  ..     . 

1:05  7:08  13:10  20:117 

1.3  2.1  0.8  2.2 

2:18  8:02  13:26  20:28 

1.2  1.8  0.9  2.4 

3:26  9:00  13:44  21:00 

1.  1  1. 5  1.0  2. 0 

4:28  10:15  11:02  21:32 

1.0  1.5  1.0  2.8 


5:55 
0.8 

22:04 

3.0 

7:10 
0.5 

22:42 

3.2 

8:00 
0.3 

23:32 

3.3 

8:45 

0.2 

Day  of— I 

wJm. 


OCTOBER. 


Time  ami  Height  of  Higli  ;uicl 
Low  Water. 


»  |M  I    1 
1       ' 
Tu     2 
I 
W     3 

111     4 

F      5 

E     S 

i 

PS 

o'm 
I 
;tu   9 

w  10 

Th  11 
N    F|12 

S  '  13 
«  '  S  j  u 
M  15 
Tu  16 
W  17 
Th  18 


0:07 
3.4 

0:58 
3.3 

1:55 
3.4 

2: -.7 
3.2 

3:58 
3.0 

5:00 
2.6 

6:05 
2.2 

1:00 
0.9 

2:02 
0.5 

3:22 

0.4 


9:15 
0.0 


10:02 
0.0 


10:30  17:45  21:00 

0.2  1.5  1.4 

10:54  18:02  22:23 

0.4  1.6  1.4 

11:22  18:20  23:42 

0. 5  2. 0  1. 1 

11:57  18:44  .     .     . 

0.8  2.4  ..     . 

7:13  12:22  19:14 

1.9  0.9  2.0 

8:23  12:48  19:53 

1.6  1.9  3.2 

9:42  13:12  20:40 

1.  5  0.  8  3.  6 


4:45 
0.0 

21:26     

3.8 

6:02 
—0.2 

22:16 

3.9 

7:07 
—0.3 

23:08 

3.9 

8:02 

0.3 

0:00 
3.7 

8:46 

-0.3 

0:51 
3.5 

9:20 

-0.1 

E      F 

A     S 


1!) 


20 


S 
M 

a  Tu 

1 

W  i  24 

Th  25 

i       I 

F    26 

] 

S  '  S    27 

S  '28 

I 
M    29 

B    Tu  30 

W   31 


1:.53 
3.2 

2:54 
2.8 

3:55 
2.4 

0:02 
1.5 

1:40 

1.2 

2:46 
0.9 

3:50 
0.7 

4:42 
0.5 

5:31 
0.2 

6:11 
0.0 

6:46 

—0.1 

7:12 
-0.3 

7:35 
—0.3 

7:.56 
—0.3 

8:25 
—0.2 


9:45  17:23  20:20 

0.0  1.6  1.) 

10:05  17:47  22:05 

0.2  2.1  1.0 

10:22  18:03  .     .     . 

0.4  2.2  ..     . 

4:50  10:48  18:20 

1.9  0.5  2.4 

5:52  11:13  18:42 

1.6  0. 7  2. 7 

7:00  11:34  19:13 

1.  ,-|  0.  8  2.  0 

19:38 


20:07 
3.4 

20:35 
3.0 

21:09 
3.7 

21:46 
3.8 


22:30  . 

3.7  . 

23:10  . 

3.6  . 

23:45  . 

3.3  . 


The  ti)le«  are  plaeeil  in  the  oriler  ol  oecuiTence,  with  Iheir  times  on  the  Hnst  line  au<I  heights  on  the  .second  line  of  e;ich  day; 
a  comparison  nf  conatM-nlivo  liei;;litH  will  indicate  whethec  it  is  hij;li  or  low  water. 

The  time  use<l  is  Mean  Local  Civil  for  the  rncridnin  Hi.''  W.;  0''  is  mulni^^ht.  TJi"  is  noon;  all  hours  less  tlnin  12  :ire  in  the 
inornin;;.  all  ^'re;itcr  iirc  in  the  jiflcinoon,  :ind  when  diminished  hy  12  ;;ive  the  usiuil  reckoninj^,  fbr  instance,  15i'  is  3  p.  m.  The 
heights,  in  feet  and  ti^nths.  are  reckoned  frotn  the  Thme  of  Me  lu  Diiirniil  Low  Wjiter,  which  is  :tl)proxim:ltely  the  diltnm  of 
soundings  on  the  Co:i8t  and  Gciidetic  .Survey  Charts  for  this  region,  iind  which  is  1.5  feet  helow  mean  sea  level.  Symhols  and 
ahbreriations  relating  to  the  moon :  0,  now  moon :  B ,  Ist  quar. :  Oi  full  moon ;  (1 , 3d  quar. :  E,  moon  on  tlie  equator;  N,  S,  moon 
farthest  north  or  sout.h  of  the  equator;  A,  P,  moon  in  apogee  or  perigee. 


14 


BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 


ICB   CONDITIONS  AND   FIRST   ANNUAL  ARRITAL  OF  VESSELS  AT  ST.  MICHAEL,, 

ALASKA. 

(From  records  of  Alaska  Commercial  Company.) 


YE.\R. 

Ice  Movino  out  of 

First  Arrival 

First  Arrival 

Ice  Forminc.  in  St.     , 

St.  Michael  Bay. 

FROM  YCKiiN  Ul\K1l. 

ruoM  Sea. 

HiciiAEi.  Bav. 

1878 

Julv    1. 

Oct.  18-22. 

1879 

1880 

June  33. 
June  28. 

Oct.  21-35 
Oct.  20-27. 

June  22. 

18S1 
1883 

June  10. 
June    8. 

June  19. 
June  34. 

Nov.  7. 
Oct.  23. 

June  17. 

1883 

June    1. 

June  10. 

June  32. 

Nov.  6. 

1884 

June  10 

June  17. 

Oct.  6. 

1885 
1886 

1887 
1888 

June  34. 
June  20. 
June  20. 
June  35. 

June  11. 

Oct.  22.           1 
Oct.  29-Nov.  6. 
Oct.  23-31. 

June  15. 
June    8. 

May  31 

1889 

June    9. 

June  13. 

July    4. 

Nov.  10-16. 

1890 

June    3. 

June    6. 

Julv  13. 

Oct.  25-Nov.  9. 

1891 

June    6. 

June    7. 

June  39. 

Nov.  6. 

1892 

June  11. 

June    7. 

June  18. 

Oct.  39. 

1893 

June  10. 

June  14. 

June  34. 

Nov.  7. 

18^14 

June  15. 

June  18, 

June  25. 

Oct.  36. 

1895 

June  18. 

June  19. 

June  29. 

Oct.24-Nov.4. 

1896 

June  25. 

June  27. 

Julv    7. 

Nov.  2. 

1897 

June  14. 

June  22. 

June  26. 

Oct.  18-21. 

1898 

June  13. 

June  13. 

Oct.  20-31. 

1899 

June  10. 

June  16. 

June  17. 

ISANOTSKI  STRAIT. 

The  navigation  of  this  pass  attracts  attention  as  it  has  been  vised  to  some  extent  by 
light-draft  craft  built  in  Puget  Soniid  ports  for  service  on  the  Yukon  River.  It  is  the 
l^ractice  for  these  vessels  to  go  through  the  inland  passages  of  Southeast  Alaska,  out  through 
Cross  Sound,  and  coast  around,  watching  the  weather,  going  behind  the  islands  off  Alaska 
Peninsula  and  through  Isanotski  Strait  or  Unimak  Pass.  Isanotski  Strait  is  preferable  to 
Uuiniak  Pass  for  light-draft  river  vessels  because  it  is  nearer  and  has  many  sheltered 
anchorages  and  places  where  fi"esh  water  can  be  obtained.  Between  twelve  and  twenty 
vessels  were  taken  through  this  strait  in  1898,  and  it  might  be  more  generally  used  if  more 
was  known  about  its  northern  entrance,  which  is  considered  dangerous,  on  account  of  the 
uncertain  knowledge  of  the  location  of  the  dangers,  and  want  of  information  regarding  the 
strong  tidal  currents,  which  are  affected  by  strong  northerly  or  southerly  winds. 

There  is  a  very  extensive  shoal,  or  flat,  in  the  northern  and  widest  portion  of  the  strait, 
lying  to  the  eastward  of  the  channel  way  and  southward  of  the  outlet  into  Bering  Sea.  Just 
outside  of  this  outlet,  at  a  distance  supposed  to  be  between  1  and  2  miles,  is  a  line  of  shoals, 
with  breakers,  which  extend  from  the  northeast  point  of  Unimak  Island  in  a  northeasterly 
direction  for  5  or  6  miles  parallel  with  the  coast. 

The  following  has  been  orally  communicated  by  Capt.  J.  L.  Fi.sher,  who  commanded 
one  of  the  eleven  Moran  stern-wheel  steamboats  that  went  through  the  pass  in  company 
during  the  summer  of  1898: 

"In  entering  from  the  eastward,  it  is  desirable,  in  passing  through  Ikalan  Bay,  to  stand 
well  over  toward  its  northwestern  shore,  then  head  up  for  the  easterly  side  of  the  entrance 
to  the  strait,  thus  giving  the  rocks  on  the  westerly  point  inside  its  entrance  a  good  berth. 
When  past  these  rocks,  cross  back  to  the  west  side  of  the  pass  to  clear  the  spit  making  off 
the  sharp  point  of  the  eastern  shore  of  the  narrows.  Then,  if  bound  through,  keep  the 
westerly  side  until  the  northeast  end  of  Unimak  Island  is  reached. 

"Abreast  Morzhovoi  Peninsula  there  is  a  large  shoal  in  the  middle  of  the  pass,  which 
must  be  avoided  by  keeping  to  the  westward  of  it.  In  the  northern  and  widest  portion  of 
the  pass  there  is  a  very  extensive  shoal,  with  the  channel  along  its  western  edge.  This 
shoal  extends  very  close  to  the  northeast  point  of  Unimak  Island,  the  channel  between  the 


CAPE   PANKOF,  SW.,  DISTANT  6   MILES. 


BEIUXG    SEA    AND    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  15 

point  and  the  slioal  being  quite  narrow,  with  the  least  depth  of  water  of  any  place  known  in 
the  strait,  there  being  not  more  than  12  feet. 

"From  close  inside  the  northwest  point  the  channel  crosses  the  entrance  and  passes  just 
outside  the  very  long  and  low  northeast  point,  with  about  18  feet  of  water,  for  3  or  3  miles, 
parallel  with  and  between  tlie  .shore  of  the  {Deninsula  and  the  offshore  shoal  with  breakers, 
until  the  latter  is  passed,  when  the  course  can  be  squared  away  out  into  Bering  Sea."  Apple- 
gate  slidws  tJie  channel  as  leading  close  to  the  end  of  the  sandspit  on  the  northeast  point  of 
Uniniak  Island  and  then  to  th.e  westward  close  to  the  northern  side  of  the  sand  spit,  between 
the  latter  and  the  shoal  lying  off  the  outlet  of  the  strait. 

"Morzhovoi  Peninsula  is  a  high  pi'omontoiy,  but  the  neck  connecting  it  with  the 
mainland  is  \ery  Inw.  This,  with  the  low  country  to  the  northeastward,  extending  from 
the  east  side  of  the  north  entrance  to  the  strait  all  the  way  to  Cape  Glasenap,  allows  the 
north  and  northeasterly  winds  to  blow  across  tlie  northerly  and  wider  portion  of  the  strait 
and  draw  through  Morzhov(n  Bay  with  a  great  deal  of  force. 

"There  is  a  rocky  spit  making  off  the  southwest  point  at  the  entrance  to  Morzhovoi 
Bay." 

Tides. — There  is  little  known  regai-ding  tlie  tides  in  Morzhovoi  Bay,  excej^t  that  they 
are  much  influenced  by  the  winds.  It  is  reported  that  the  current  in  the  strait  runs  north 
loh.  30ni.,  and  south  8h.  30m.  In  the  narrow  x*art  of  the  strait  south  of  Morzhovoi  Bay, 
the  tidal  current  is  said  to  attain  a  velocity  of  from  7  to  9  knots. 

ANCHORAGES. 

Lieut.  Commander  F.  J.  Drake,  U.  S.  N.,  commanding  U.  S.  S.  Albatross,  1895,  says: 
"In  Ikatan  Bay  good  holding  groimd  is  found  in  a  small  cove  immediately  west  of 
Ikatok  Point,  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  which  offers  good  protection  with  winds  from 
southeast  to  southwest.  For  winds  from  northeast  to  northwest,  a  safe  anchorage  is  found 
on  the  north  side  of  the  bay  west  of  Sankin  Island,  close  to  and  iinder  the  bluff  east  of  the 
entrance  to  the  strait.  Both  anchorages  are  free  from  the  rush  of  the  tidal  current,  which 
has  a  velocity  of  7  to  9  knots  in  the  pass. 

"  Morzhovoi  Bay. — Morzhovoi  Village  is  situated  on  a  low,  sloping  bluff  terminating  in 
a  rocky  and  gravelly  spit  on  the  south  shore  of  Morzhovoi  Bay.  Fresh  water  can  be 
obtained  at  the  southeast  corner  of  the  bay,  near  the  village.  An  anchorage  may  be  made 
in  the  middle  of  the  bay  off  the  village,  with  the  Greek  church  bearing  S.  ^  E.,  depth  4^ 
fathoms,  muddy  bottom  and  good  holding  ground.  A  high  bluff  on  the  north  side  forms  a 
good  protection  from  northerly  winds,  which,  however,  are  drawn  through  the  bay  with 
much  force  at  times  from  the  eastward." 

COAST  FR03I  ISANOTSKI  STKAIT  TO  UNIMAK  PASS. 

PROMINENT  FEATURES. 

Sannak  Islands.  —The  most  noticeable  features  of  Sannak  Island  are  the  closely  con- 
nected peaks  eastward  of  Acherk  Harbor  and  the  numerous  outlying  rocks  and  islands. 
Sannak  Peak,  1,850  feet  higli,  has  been  seen  from  the  westward  at  a  distance  of  65  miles.  It 
is  tliought  that  these  Islands  are  a  few  miles  southward  and  eastward  from  their  positions 
as  given  on  the  chart.  The  vicinity  of  Sannak  Islands  is  extremely  dangerous,  and 
no  effort  should  be  made  to  make  Sannak  Peak  as  a  landmark  from  the  southwai'd.  The 
numerous  reefs  and  I'ocks  surrounding  the  islands,  especially  on  their  southern  and  western 
sides,  and  tlie'r  uncertain  positions,  should  warn  the  navigator  to  give  them  a  wide  berth. 

Cape  Pankof  has  three  rugged  points  close  together,  and  there  is  a  reef  j^artially  above 
water  extending  about  ^  mile  E.  by  S.  from  the  middle  point.  Tlie  land  back  of  the  cape 
is  low',  so  that  at  a  distance  the  cape  appears  as  an  island.  A  reef  makes  off  eastward 
from  the  cape  for  a  distance  of  about  i  mile,  and  tide  rips  and  broken  water  extend  some 
distances  off  the  cape. 


16  BULLETIN   NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

Cape  Lazaref  is  a  rocky  point  with  a  ledge  extending  from  it  SE.  about  1  mile;  there 
ai'e  tliree  rocks  above  water  nearly  equidistant  from  the  cape.  There  are  two  bold,  rocky 
points  immediately  east  of  Cape  Lazaref,  with  small  beaches  between  them.  In  fact,  the 
cape  miglit  hk  said  to  be  formed  by  three  points,  as  they  all  lie  within  1^  miles. 

Tlie  Promontory  forms  tlie  western  end  of  Unimak  Bay.  On  the  northern  and  south- 
ern sides  it  slopes  away  gradually,  while  the  crest  (grass-covered  in  summer)  is  joined  to 
the  central  mountain  system  of  Unimak  Island  by  a  lower  connecting  ridge.  The  seaward 
face  terminates  in  a  vertical  cliff  having  a  low  rocky  foot  with  outlying  ledges,  and  a  small 
rocky  islet  off  it. 

From  the  Promontory  a  low  belt  of  land  extends  southward  to  a  steep  hill,  which 
lies  northeastward  of  Cape  Khituk.  It  is  apparently  composed  of  volcanic  rock  and  detritus, 
about  700  feet  high,  detached  from  the  interior  high  lands  by  intervening  valleys.  The 
seaward  face  is  a  bluff,  with  detritus  at  its  foot,  partly  covered  during  the  summer  with 
grass  and  sloping  toward  the  water.     It  is  an  important  landmark. 

AKCIIORAGES. 

Acherk  Harbor,  on  the  northwest  end  of  Sannak  Island,  is  said  to  be  a  good  harbor 
for  all  but  northwest  winds.  It  is  small,  however,  and,  being  out  of  the  way,  would  not 
be  generally  used.  The  inner  portion  of  the  harbor  is  about  i  mile  wide,  and  there  is  an 
anchorage  in  about  4  fathoms  in  the  middle,  about  ^  mile  from  the  beach  at  the  head.  The 
neck  connecting  Petrof  Point,  on  the  west  side  of  tlie  harbor,  with  the  main  part  of  the 
island  is  low  and  covered  at  very  high  tides.  There  are  several  native  houses  in  the  south- 
east part  of  the  harbor,  which  ai'e  visible  from  a  considerable  distance  when  not  shut  in  by 
the  hill  on  Petrof  Point.  The  best  landing  is  on  the  beach  near  the  village;  there  is  a  wharf 
in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  liarbor.  A  rock  on  which  the  sea  breaks  lies  about  200  yards 
NW.  by  W.  fr.mi  the  rock  at  tlie  east  point  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor. 

Ikatan  Bay  affords  good  protection  in  southerly  winds  (see  page  15). 

East  Anchor  Cove  affords  good  anchorage  and  shelter  from  westerly  and  southerly 
to  southeast  winds.  There  are  detached  locks  off  the  east  point  at  the  entrance  to  the  cove 
close  in  to  the  shore.  There  are  no  dangers  inside  the  cove ;  the  bottom  shoals  gradually  to 
the  shores. 

Approaching  from  the  southward,  round  Cape  Paiikof  and  give  the  land  a  berth  of  about 
1  mile.  After  passing  tlie  high  land  at  the  end  of  the  cajje  the  cove  opens  out,  with  low 
land  at  its  head.  Enter  the  cove  in  mid-channel  and  anchor  in  about  5  fathoms.  Approach- 
ing from  tlie  northeastward,  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  the  breakers  on  a  sunken  rock  about 
NNE.  i  E.,  distant  about  3  miles,  from  the  cove. 

There  is  good  anchorage  in  the  middle  of  West  Anchor  Cove,  in  5  to  9  fathoms,  and 
the  eastern  point  at  the  entrance  bearing  about  S.  There  is  a  reef  of  rocks  close-to  off  the 
southeast  point  of  the  cove. 

Lords  Harbor,  locally  known  as  Dora  Harbor,  affords  good  anchorage  with  northerly 
winds,  but  with  heavy  southwesterlj'  winds  considerable  swell  sets  in.  It  is  out  of  the  way 
and  little  used.  Bird  Island,  high  and  cone-shaped,  marks  the  entrance.  From  the  Island 
a  kelp  reef,  having  two  rocks  about  10  feet  out  of  water,  extends  to  the  western  point  at 
the  entrance.  The  following  are  the  directions  given  by  Capt.  M.  A.  Healy,  U.  S.  R.  C.  S., 
commanding  the  U.  S.  S.  Corwiii,  in  1885 : 

"To  enter,  bring  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  to  bear  NW.,  and  steer 
for  it  on  this  bearing  until  Bird  Island  bears  S. ;  then  steer  N.  for  the  middle  of  the  entrance 
and  anchor  in  4^  to  5  fathoms,  with  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  bearing  SW.  and  the  east 
side  SSE.  A  E." 

An  anchorage  for  small  vessels  exists  under  the  northeast  side  of  Cape  Lazaref,  but 
no  directions  can  be  given. 

Promontory  Cove,  close  under  the  west  side  of  the  promontory,  is  indicated  by  Apple- 
gate  as  an  anchorage,  with  7  to  9  fathoms  water. 


BERING    SEA    AND    ARCTIC    OCEAX.  17 

FOX  ISLANDS  1» ASSES. 

From  the  southward  aud  eastward,  bound  for  Bering  Sea,  there  are  three  passes  used 
by  deep-draft  vessels,  known  collectively  as  the  Fox  Islands  Passes,  and  resjjectively  as 
Unimak,  Akutan,  aud  Unalga  passes.  The  largest  and  most  desirable  one  to  use  in  thick 
and  foggy  weather  is  the  eastern  one,  Unimak  Pass.  This  is  clear  of  hidden  dangers,  the 
widest  of  the  three,  and  is  comparatively  free  from  tide  rips.  It  is  especially  recommended 
for  sailing  vessels,  and  for  steamers  bound  direct  to  the  northward.  Akutan  and  Unalga 
passes  are  convenient  for  steam  vessels  bound  to  Unalaska  Bay,  but,  being  narrow  and  having 
strong  currents  and  tide  rips  at  times,  are  not  recommended  for  sailing  vessels  bound  north. 
A  fair  wind  is  almost  necessarj'  for  the  passage,  and  from  the  southward  this  would  bring 
fog.  The  pass  between  Ashmiak  and  Ugamok  islands  on  the  east  and  Sea  Lion.  Island  on 
the  west  is  thought  to  be  clear  of  dangers,  but  it  is  not  recommended.  All  of  the  other  minor 
passes  between  Unimak  and  Akutan  passes  are  known  to  be  full  of  rocks  and  reefs,  and 
should  not  be  attemjited  under  any  circumstances. 

The  mountains  in  this  vicinity  would  be  excellent  landmarks  if  they  could  be  seen,  but 
in  summer  they  are  almost  always  obscured  by  fogs  or  low-lying  clouds.  The  lower  hills 
and  islands  and  objects  near  the  sea  level  furnish  the  available  landmarks.  In  coming  from 
the  southward  or  eastward  in  clear  weather,  and  if  bound  through  Akutan  or  Unalga  passes, 
it  is  recommended  to  steer  for  Tigalda  Lsland  as  the  first  land  to  be  made.  It  is  high  and 
prominent,  and  when  once  made  a  course  can  be  shaped  for  any  of  the  three  passes. 

SOUlsrDIXGS — To  the  southward  of  the  passes  the  100-fathom  curve  is  found  from  20 
to  40  miles  offshore,  and  when  inside  of  this  depth  the  color  of  the  water  will  have  changed 
from  dark  blue  to  light  green.  This  change  in  the  color  of  the  water  is  the  best  indication 
the  mariner  has  in  thick  weather  to  warn  him  of  his  approach  to  land  and  that  he  is  on 
soundings.  Southwest  of  Unimak  Pass  the  oO-fathom  curve  is  from  3  to  5  miles  offshore, 
and  in  thick  weather  the  greatest  caution  should  be  used  in  approaching  inside  of  this 
depth.  Southeast  of  Unimak  Pass  the  water  shoals  rapidly  from  100  fathoms  to  Davidson 
Bank,  on  which  a  least  depth  of  37  fathoms  is  marked  33  miles  from  Ugamok  Island. 

PROMINENT  FEATURES. 

Shishaldin  Volcano,  nearly  9,000  feet  high,  is  cone-shaped  and  very  regular  in  outline, 
with  faint  wreaths  of  smoke  and  vapor  at  times  drifting  from  its  blackened  tip.  It  is  for 
the  most  part  snow-clad,  except  where  the  rocky  cliffs  and  projections  afford  no  lodgment. 

Isanotski  is  seen  close  to  the  eastward  of  Shishaldin,  very  rugged,  and  having  a  broken 
or  castellated  double  peak.  The  summit  is  bare  and  looks  as  though  composed  of  great 
vertical  rock  masses. 

Pogrumnoi  Volcano,  over  5,500  feet  high,  is  a  rugged,  snow-clad  peak,  with  dark 
vertical  ridges  cropping  through  the  snow.  From  a  flat-topped  dome,  apparently  as  high 
as  Pogrumnoi,  but  seemingly  not  connected  with  it,  there  extends  a  long,  high,  snow-covered 
table-land,  dipping  gx-adually  toward  Cape  Khituk.  Except  the  snow-covered  portions,  the 
general  color  is  green  during  July  and  August,  from  the  grass-covered  slopes.  Pogrumnoi 
is  a  guiding  landmark  in  clear  weather  in  making  Unimak  Puss. 

Ugamok  Island  is  rugged  in  outline,  with  bold  rocky  cliffs.  It  is  highest  at  the 
eastern  end,  where  tliero  is  a  sharp  ccmical  peak,  which  is  very  conspicuous,  and  may  often 
be  seen  wlien  the  summits  of  the  higher  islands  in  the  vicinity  are  ob.scured  by  fog.  The 
northern  and  eastern  sides  of  the  island  are  free  from  dangers. 

Tigalda  Island  is  high  and  prominent,  with  distinctly  rounded  bills,  re.sembling 
knuckles.  The  SDutliorn  shore  of  the  island  can  be  approached  as  close  as  1  mile.  The 
northern  and  nortliwestern  sides  of  the  island  are  ioul  and  shovild  not  be  approached. 

Avatanak  Island  is  highest  at  its  eastern  end,  where  it  terminates  in  a  bold  cliff; 
toward  the  western  end,  which  is  low,  is  a  pile  of  very  pr(Mniuent  rocks,  resembling  a 

17789 3 


18  BULLETIN    KO.  40 SECOND    EDITION. 

ruined  castle.  The  hills  are  not  rounded  like  those  of  Tigalda,  but  are  rugged  and  torn. 
The  southern  shore  is  apparently  safe. 

Rootok  Island,  lying  ^Yestward  of  Avatanak  Island  and  separated  from  the  latter  Ity  a 
foul  passage,  is  high,  bold,  and  abrupt,  and  about  3  miles  long  in  a  general  ENE.  and  WSW. 
direction.     The  shores  of  this  island  are  apparently  free  from  outlying  dangers. 

Akutan  Island  is  3,333  feet  high.  The  volcano  is  a  rugged  cone,  -^-ith  generally  a 
faint  column  of  smoke  issuing  from  its  northeast  side  near  the  top.  The  north  side  of  the 
island  is  a  fairly  regular  slope,  breaking  off  at  the  coast  in  steep  cliffs.  The  south  side  is 
more  irregular  and  the  cliffs  at  the  coast  are  higher  and  more  rocky  and  broken.  In  sum- 
mer the  lower  parts  of  the  island  are  grass-covered.  Cape  Morgan,  the  southwest  point, 
is  high  and  very  bold  and  precipitous.  A  shelf  of  dark  rock  is  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs, 
and  a  reef  having  three  pinnacle  rocks  above  water  extends  off  the  cape  about  i  niile. 

TJnalga  Island  is  comparatively  low,  with  a  steep  ragged  shore  line  of  cliffs  sur- 
rounded by  detached  pinnacle  rocks.  The  top  of  the  island  is  covered  with  grass  and 
shows  up  well  against  the  dark  hills  beyond.  There  is  a  reef  which  extends  about  200 
yards  off  the  northwest  end  of  the  island. 

Gull  Rocks  lie  off  the  northeast  side  of  Uualga  Island.  The  group  consists  of  four 
small  islets,  standing  well  out  of  the  water  and  less  than  i  mile  from  Unalga  Island. 
There  are  many  detached  rocks  in  the  same  group,  but  not  extending  beyond  the  islets  into 
Akutan  Pass. 

Egg  Island,  situated  a  .short  distance  northward  from  Biorka  Island,  is  a  landmark 
for  Unalga  Pass.  It  is  moderately  high,  rather  ragged  on  top,  dai-k  in  color,  and  has  a 
comparatively  rounded  outline.  There  is  a  good  passage  between  the  island  and  Cape 
Biorka,  with  a  depth  of  35  fathoms.  When  the  island  bears  about  SW.  by  S.,  a  small 
island,  detached  from  the  main  island,  will  open  out  on  its  southeastern  end.  A  dark  x'in- 
nacle  rock,  showing  jilainly,  lies  close  to  the  north  end  of  the  island.  The  shores  of  the 
island  are  free  from  dangei'S. 

The  Signals  are  two  low,  barren  rocks,  about  3  miles  southward  of  Egg  Island.  The 
channel  between  them  and  Biorka  Island  is  clear,  with  a  depth  of  10  fathoms.  A  sunken 
rock  is  just  outside  the  Outer  Signal. 

Old  Man  is  a  small,  square-topped  rock,  about  GO  feet  high,  lying  about  |  mile  north- 
west from  Egg  Island.  There  is  a  low,  round-topped  rock  close  to  the  Old  Man.  Old  Man 
stands  out  well  clear  from  Egg  Island  and,  in  thick  weather,  serves  as  an  excellent  mark 
by  which  to  recognize  Egg  Island. 

DANGERS  APPROACHING  PROM  THE  SOUTHEASTWARD. 

Anderson  and  Lenard  Rocks. — The  existence  and  position  of  these  rocks  are 
doubtful;  they  are  believed  to  be  one  and  the  same  rock,  though  reported  in  different 
localities.  Commander  Z.  L.  Tanner,  of  the  XJ.  S.  S.  Albatross,  has  searched  for  them 
without  success,  but  is  convinced  that  some  danger  exists  in  that  locality. 

It  is  reported  that  there  is  a  rock  awash  at  low  water  in  approximately  latitude  54°  03'  N., 
longitude  162°  48'  W.,  or  with  Sannak  Peak  bearing  N.  by  W.  f  W.,  distant  27  miles.  This 
may  be  the  Anderson  Rock  referred  to  above. 

It  is  reported  that  foul  ground  exists  between  the  above-mentioned  rocks  and  Sannak 
Island. 

Aleks  Rock,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  in  a  well-defined  breaker,  is  about  20  feet  across, 
and  lies  with  Sannak  Peak  bearing  ap^jroximately  NE.,  distant  19  miles.  (See  also  Sannak 
Island,  page  15.) 

TIDAL  C'URRKXTS.— In  the  vicinity  of  the  passes  and  in  the  passes  the  tidal  cur- 
rents are  strong  and  their  directions  uncertain,  and  it  is  recommended  that  precautious  be 
taken  in  thick  weather  to  avoid  being  carried  unawares  into  dangerous  localities.  In  navi- 
gating in  this  vicinity  it  is  necessary  to  make  allowance  for  the  current  setting  into  or  out 


PINNACLE   ROCK,  SCOTCH   CAP,  ENE.  hi  E. 


CAPE   MORGAN,  WNW.,  DISTANT  8   MILES. 
AKUTAN    ISLAND. 


BERING    SKA    AND    Altf'TIC    OCEAN.  19 

of  the  passes.  The  current  sets  southward  during  the  falling  tide  and  northward  during  the 
rising  tide,  which  is  the  longer  and  stronger  of  the  two.  Its  velocity  varies,  but  in  Unalga 
Pass,  wliere  it  is  greatest,  it  has  been  found  to  be  Q^  knots  an  hour  during  the  whole  of  the 
tide,  and  the  current  turned  to  the  opposite  direction  at  the  same  velocity  in  twenty  roinutes. 
It  is  believed,  however,  that  such  a  velocity  of  the  current  is  very  unusual  in  any  of  these 
passes,  and  that  at  ordinary  times  the  tidal  current  does  not  amount  to  more  than  three  or 
four  knots.  Until  very  recently  the  class  of  vessels  navigating  these  watei'S  has  been  low- 
powered,  with  an  a\'erage  speed  of  from  6  to  9  knots,  and,  in  an  experience  covering  many 
years,  it  is  not  recalled  or  known  when  these  vessels  have  experienced  serious  trouble  in 
going  through  at  any  stage  or  condition  of  the  tide  when  not  influenced  by  strong  winds. 

On  the  Bering  Sea  side  of  Unalga  and  Akutan  passes,  with  a  strong  northerly  or 
northwesterly  wind,  heavy  tide  rips  are  raised.  These  do  not  extend  through  the  passes, 
but  seem  to  be  confined  to  the  Bering  Sea  side  from  about  the  middle  of  Unalga  Island 
almost  to  Cape  Kalekhta.  With  the  ebb  tide,  a  southerly  wind  does  not  seem  to  raise 
corresponding  ri^js  on  the  Pacific  side.  When  the  tide  rips  are  heavy,  the  water  is  broken 
into  heavy,  choppy  seas  from  every  direction,  making  it  difficult  to  control  the  ship.  In 
H.  M.  S.  Nymplic,  in  1893,  while  passing  through  Unalga  Pass,  all  hatchways  on  deck  were 
obliged  to  be  closed,  as  the  water  broke  on  board  in  every  direction  with  great  force,  and  a 
speed  of  9  to  10  knots  was  necessary  to  control  the  vessel.  Unimak  Pass  is  comparatively 
free  from  tide  rips. 

In  ordinary  weather  it  is  high  or  low  water  in  Akutan  Pass  between  one  and  two  hours 
before  high  or  low  water  at  Dutch  Harbdr. 


THROUGH  UNIMAK    PASS   TO   CAPE  KALEKHTA. 
PROSUNENT  FEATURES. 

Cape  Khituk,  locally  known  as  Seal  Cape,  is  about  150  feet  high,  with  a  vertical 
rocky  face  and  grassy  slopes  on  fither  side.  There  is  no  island  off  the  cape  and  no  rock.s 
were  seen  disconnected  from  the  shore. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Scotch  Cap  the  bluffs  are  reddish  gray,  with  a  dark  pinnacle  rock  at 
the  base  of  the  bluffs.  A  short  distance  east  of  it  is  a  large  rock  standing  on  the  grassy 
slope  near  the  beach  and  having  the  appearance  of  a  hut  or  barabara.  Westward  of  Scotch 
Cap  a  stream  enters  the  sea,  which  from  the  westward  shows  a  cascade  but  is  not  visible 
from  the  soutliward.  A  breaker  is  reported  as  being  about  3  miles  northwestward  of  Scotch 
Cap  and  alxtut  \  mile  from  the  shore. 

Cape  Saritchey  is  comparatively  low  and  steep-to  with  detached  I'ocks  close  inshore, 
around  wliicli  strong  tidal  currents  sweep. 

Ugamok  Island  is  described  on  page  17. 

Akun  Head,  the  northern  end  of  Akun  Island,  is  a  high  massive  head  with  a  nearly 
vertical  sea  i'aci^;  it  has  a  high  grass-covered  (in  summer)  saddle  to  the  southward. 

North  Head,  of  Akutan  Island,  consists  of  two  high  ridges,  separated  by  a  grassy 
valley.  The  eastern  one  is  the  more  abrupt  and  extends  farther  northwest,  having  on  the 
eastern  side  a  bold  bluff  which  seems  to  dip  into  a  low  valley.  The  bluff  is  of  a  warm 
reddish  color,  wifh  ilie  stratification  dipping  slightly  northwestward. 

Flat  Top  Rock,  on  the  northwest  side  of  Akutan  Island,  from  tlio  eastward,  is  seen 
detached  from  the  point.  It  is  the  same  height  as  the  point  and  seems  as  if  part  (if  the 
point  had  Ijeeii  detached  and  slipped  a  short  distance  seaward. 

Cape  Kalekhta,  500  feet  high,  is  the  turning  point  when  bound  from  any  of  the  passes 
to  Dutcli  Harbor  or  Uiuliuk.  It  is  a  high,  rocky  promontory  separating  Unalaska  Bay 
from  Kalekhta  Bay.  The  extremity  and  western  side  of  the  cape  are  rugged,  pi'ccipitous 
cliffs,  with  a  few  rocks  but  no  beach  at  the  water  line.     Seen  from  a  distance,  its  north 


20  BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

end  is  convex  in  outline,  being  steepest  at  the  water  and  sloping  more  gently  toward  the 
summit.  From  the  summit  of  the  cape,  the  laud  falls  to  the  break  at  Coustantine  Bay, 
and  then  rises  to  the  higher  land  farther  south.  While  the  position  of  this  break  can  be 
distinguished,  its  full  extent  can  be  seen  only  when  in  Unah^ska  Bay.  From  most 
directions  tlie  end  of  the  cape  appears  as  a  conical  peak.  N.  ^  W.  from  Cape  Kalekhta, 
distant  f  mile,  is  the  outer  extremity  of  a  dangerous  ledge  which  is  usually  well  marked  by 
breakers.  The  cape  should  be  given  a  berth  of  li  miles  to  clear  the  ledge,  as  the  strong 
tidal  currents  may  tend  to  carry  a  vessel  on  it. 

Priest  Rock,  close-to  off  the  northwest  side  of  Cape  Kalekhta,  is  a  pinnacle  about  80 
feet  high.  While  classed  as  a  conspicuous  landmark,  its  usefulness  to  strangers  is  uncertain. 
It  can  only  be  seen  clear  of  the  land  when  well  through  Akutan  and  Unalga  passes  and 
when  close  to  the  north  side  of  Akutan  Island.  It  shows  against  the  land  from  all  other 
directions  and  can  not  be  made  out  except  when  close-to.  There  are  similar  rocks  off  several 
other  points  in  this  vicinity,  which  in  thick  weather  might  easily  be  mistaken  by  strangers 
for  Priest  Rock. 

ANCHORAGES. 

It  is  reported  that  a  good  anchorage  exists  under  Cape  Khituk  in  7  to  10  fathoms,  pro- 
tected from  winds  from  the  westward  of  south,  but  no  directions  can  be  given. 

With  offshore  winds  an  anchorage  can  be  made  close  inshore  in  the  bight  between  Cape 
Saritchey  and  Cave  Point. 

Akun  Cove  is  a  convenient  and  safe  anchorage  except  with  winds  from  southeast  to 
northeast,  but  heavy  williwaws  are  experienced.  It  is  large  and  easy  to  approach.  The 
head  of  the  cove  is  divided  into  two  bights,  in  either  of  which  a  vessel  can  anchor  about  i 
mile  offshore  in  7  to  10  fathoms. 

Akutan  Harbor  gives  protection  from  all  winds,  but  the  ■\\'illiwaws  are  violent.  The 
settlement  is  on  the  north  shore,  where  there  is  a  depot  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company. 
The  northern  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  a  bold,  black  bluff"  facing  the  southeast 
point  of  the  island.  The  harbor  is  about  3  miles  in  length  and  f  to  1^  miles  in  width.  The 
water  is  deep  (20  to  25  fathoms),  and  the  shores  are  free  from  outlying  rocks  except  at  the 
bluff  at  the  north  side  of  the  entrance,  which  shoiild  be  given  a  berth  of  at  least  i  mile.  To 
enter,  round  this  bluff  at  a  distance  of  j  mile,  and  proceed  up  the  harbor  in  mid-channel. 
Anchor  close  to  the  shore  abreast  the  village  in  18  fathoms,  soft  bottom. 

UNIMAK  PASS. 

General  directions. — Unimak  Pass  is  the  widest  of  the  Fox  Islands  Passes,  being  0  or  10 
miles  wide  in  its  narrowest  part.  It  is  clear  of  hidden  dangers,  free  from  dangerous  tide  rips, 
and  the  tidal  current  has  less  velocity  than  in  the  other  passes.  Except  near  shore,  it  is  free 
of  williwaws.  It  is  the  most  desirable  pass  for  sailing  vessels,  and  also  for  all  vessels  not 
calling  at  Unalaska  Bay.  In  apjiroaching  from  the  southward  and  eastward,  care  must  be 
taken  to  keep  clear  of  Sannak  Reefs  and  Anderson  and  Leuard  rocks.  A  good  rule  is  to 
make  longitude  164°  W.  while  still  to  the  southward  of  latitude  54°  N.  and  then  stand  to 
the  northward  to  make  Cape  Khituk.  If  very  clear,  the  mountains  of  Unimak  Island  may 
be  made  out  and  the  course  for  Unimak  Pass  shaped  accordingly;  but  imder  prdiuarj' 
conditions  the  hills  back  of  Cape  Khituk,  or  Ugamok  Island,  will  be  the  first  land  sighted. 
If  the  weather  is  thick,  soundings  on  Davidson  Bank  will  be  of  use  in  feeling  the  way  in  to 
the  land.  In  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Khituk  the  coast  is  bold  and  free  from  outlying  dangers, 
and  may  be  approached  near  enoiigh  to  be  seen  and  the  i^osition  obtained.  A  course  may 
then  be  shaped  through  the  pass,  even  in  the  thickest  weather,  but  vessels  should  first  be 
sure  of  their  position  and  should  not  attempt  any  of  the  minor  passes  to  the  westward  of 
Ugamok  Island  even  in  clear  weather.  A  reef  of  rocks  was  formerly  shown  on  the  chart 
extending  between  1  and  2  miles  from  the  east  end  of  Ugamok  Island. 


KALEKHTA    HEAD,  W.  'u  S.  5   MILES.         PRIEST  ROCK. 
UNALASKA  ISLAND. 


PRIEST   ROCK,  KALEKHTA   HEAD,  NE.  BY  E.,  DISTANT  3  MILES. 


BEIUXG    SEA    AM>    AlUTIC    OCKAN.  21 

AKUTAN  PASS. 

General  directions. — Akiitan  Pciss  is  about  3  miles  wide  in  its  narrowest  part.  There 
are  four  small  islets  (Gull  Rocks)  ou  the  western  side  of  the  pass,  less  than  ^  mile  from 
Unalga  Island,  with  many  detached  rocks  above  water  in  the  same  group,  but  not  extending 
bej'ond  the  islets  into  the  pass.  There  is  a  reef  •«  ith  some  pinnacle  rocks  on  it  extending 
from  Cai:)e  Morgan  not  more  than  i  mile  into  the  pass.  With  these  exceptions  there  are  no 
known  dangers.  The  current  and  tide  rijis  are  not  so  strong  as  in  Unalga  Pass.  On  this 
account,  and  because  of  its  greater  width  and  the  fact  that  a  straight  course  will  carry 
through,  this  pass  is  preferred  by  many  to  Unalga  Pass. 

Akutan  Pass  is  recommended  for  steamers  bound  to  oi-  from  Unalaska  Bay,  and  for 
sailing  vessels  from  Unalaska  Bay,  having  a  fair  wind.  From  the  southward  it  is  I'ecom- 
mended  to  make  the  laud  in  the  vicinity  of  Tigalda  Island  and  Avatanak  Island  and  follow 
along  the  south  side  of  these  islands  until  the  course  is  shaped  from  Rootok  Island  to  Cape 
Morgan.  A  mid-channel  course  through  the  pass  is  recommended  as  the  most  prudent  one. 
From  Cape  Morgan  a  W.  by  S.  course,  making  allowance  for  the  current,  will  carry  clear 
of  the  ledge  off  Cape  Kalekhta.  From  Unalaska  Bay,  after  clearing  Cape  Kalekhta,  Akutan 
Pass  is  open  and  an  E.  by  N.  course  can  be  steered  through. 

UNALGA  PASS. 

Unalga  Pass  is  the  small  jjass  between  Unalga  and  Unalaska  islands.  It  is  the  narrowest 
and  shortest  of  the  three  passes,  and  is  more  generally  used  by  steamers  bound  to  and  from 
Unalaska  Bay  than  either  of  the  other  two.  It  is  aboiit  one  mile  wide  in  its  narrowest  part, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  rocks  above  water  which  make  out  a  short  distance  from  the 
points  of  Unalaska  Island,  the  pass  is  considered  free  from  dangers.  In  the  middle  of  the 
pass  there  are  depths  of  25  to  35  fathoms,  with  deeper  water  northwestward  and  south- 
eastward. Its  worst  features  are  the  strong  tidal  currents  and  tide  rips,  both  of  which  are 
generally  considered  worse  in  this  pass  than  in  either  of  the  other  two;  williwaws  of  great 
force  are  also  experienced  in  this  pass.  The  advantage  of  using  this  pass  in  thick  weather 
is  that  the  shore  of  Unalga  Island  is  clear  of  dangers,  and  when  made  can  be  followed  close 
enough  to  keep  it  in  sight  while  going  through.     (See  Unalga  Island,  page  18. ) 

The  Signals,  Egg  Island,  and  Old  Man  are  the  prominent  landmarks  for  uuiking  Unalga 

Pass  from  the  southeastward. 

ANCHORAGES. 

Beaver  Inlet,  lietween  Biorka  and  Unalaska  islands,  is  a  deep  inlet  on  the  western 
side  of  the  southern  entrance  to  Unalga  Pass.  There  are  several  bays  leading  out  of  Beaver 
Inlet.  The  best  anchorage  is  said  to  be  in  Food  Bay,  on  the  north  side  of  the  inlet,  near  its 
enti-ance.  The  anchorage  near  the  shore  off  the  village  of  Biorka,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
inlet,  is  poor  on  account  of  the  deep  water;  it  affords  shelter  in  soiltherly  weather. 

English  Bay,  southwest  of  Unalga  Island,  is  a  good  harbor.  The  water  is  deep,  and 
there  are  no  dangers  except  on  both  sides  of  the  entrance,  near  the  shore.  Tlu^  anchorage 
is  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  in  about  10  fathoms. 

Kalekhta  Bay,  eastward  of  Cape  Kalekhta,  is  clear  of  dangers  except  along  sliore. 
Anchorage  should  not  be  made  in  less  than  10  fathoms.  The  bay  is  much  smaller  in  every 
way  than  Unalaska  Bay,  but  it  is  marked  by  a  cascade  on  its  western  side  not  unlike  tlu; 
one  recommended  as  a  landmark  for  Unalaska  Bay.  Tliere  is  also  a  pinnacle  rock  oil 
Er.skine  Point,  the  eastern  point  at  the  entrance,  somewliat  similar  to  Priest  Rock;  hut  (his 
rock  is  distinguisluHl  by  a  smaller  one  between  it  and  Erskine  Point. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS,  UNALGA  PASS. 

From  tlie  southeastward  it  is  recommended  to  make  the  land  in  tlie  vicinity  of  Tigalda 
Island  and,  after  fixing  the  position,  slui.pe  a  course  for  Egg  Island.  If  the  weather  is  clear 
and  Unalga  Island  is  made  out,  the  course  cau  be  shaped  for  the  entrance  to  the  pass ;  but 


22  BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND   EDITION. 

if  thick,  it  will  be  necessary  to  approach  Egg  Island  close  enough  to  be  sure  of  the  position 
before  hauling  in  for  the  pass.  (See  description  of  the  islands  on  pages  17-18.)  It  is  the  gen- 
eral practice  to  favor  the  Unalga  Island  side  in  going  through,  because  the  current  seems 
less  strong  there  tind  there  are  no  rocks  except  along  the  beach.  A  sfraight  course  ivill  not 
carry  through  the  pass  as  indicated  on  the  chart.  When  clear  of  Unalga  Island,  shape  the 
course  to  clear  Cape  Kalekhta  1^  miles,  to  avoid  the  ledge  off  the  cape. 

From  the  southward  vessels  may  pass  inside  The  Signals  and  Egg  Island.     The  Outer 
Signals  should  not  be  approached  too  closely,  as  a  sunken  rock  is  reported  in  its  vicinity. 


UNALASKA  BAY. 

Unalaska  Bay  is  the  general  name  of  the  indentation  making  in  to  the  north  end  of 
Unalaska  Island  between  Cape  Kalekhta  and  Cape  Cheerful.  Commercially  it  is  the  most 
important  bay  in  western  Alaska.  Its  shores  are  generally  mountainous  with  precipitous 
sea  faces.  Amaknak  Island  lies  in  its  southern  end.  Westward  of  the  island  the  water 
is  deeji,  but  there  is  no  good  harbor  in  this  i)art  of  the  bay ;  eastward  of  the  island  are  the 
important  anchorages  of  Iliuliuk  Bay,  Dutch  Harbor,  and  Iliuliuk  Hai-bor.  The  channel 
to  Iliuliiik  Bay  and  Dutch  Harbor  is  free  from  dangers  except  along  the  shores.  Iliiiliuk 
Harbor  is  obstructed  at  its  entrance  by  ledges. 

Cape  Kalekhta  and  Priest  Rock.     (See  pages  19-20.) 

Cape  Cheerful,  the  western  point  at  the  entrance  to  Unalaska  Bay,  is  made  up  of  bold, 
very  high  headlands,  rounded  on  top,  and  intersected  by  deep,  grassy  valleys.  The  shore 
is  free  from  dangers  and  has  deep  water  close-to.  A  cascade,  125  feet  high,  south  of  Cape 
Cheerful,  is  a  conspicuous  mark  from  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Kalekhta,  and  is  useful  in  thick 
weather  when  only  the  lower  part  of  the  land  can  be  seen. 

TJlakhta  Head,  900  feet  high,  the  north  end  of  Amaknak  Island,  is,  in  clear  weather, 
one  of  the  best  landmarks  for  fixing  the  position  of  Unalaska  Bay.  In  appearance  it  is 
like  a  pyramid  with  the  top  cut  off.  The  top  shows  perfectly  fiat,  and  there  is  no  other 
headland  or  mountain  in  this  vicinity  that  has  this  feature.  It  is  not  as  high  as  the  back- 
ground, but  shows  up  well  against  it,  aiui  can  be  made  out  at  a  long  distance  from  the  bay. 
From  its  northwest  point  a  reef  extends  off  ^  mile,  marked  by  Needle  Rock,  similar  in 
api^earance  to  Priest  Rock,  but  not  so  large.  From  its  northeast  point  a  long,  narrow  sand 
spit  extends  to  the  southward  1^  miles ;  its  southern  end,  called  Spithead,  is  marked  by  a 
beacon,  about  1.5  feet  high,  standing  close  to  its  southern  shore. 

Princess  Head,  2  miles  from  Cape  Kalekhta,  is  a  large  square-headed  rock  that 
projects  from  the-  shore  far  enough  to  be  distinctly  observed,  even  in  thick  weather,  in 
following  along  the  east  shore. 

Constantine  Bay,  about  1  miles  from  Cape  Kalekhta,  is  obstructed  by  numerous  rocky 
ledges,  many  of  which  are  only  evident  from  the  attached  kelp.  It  is  of  no  importance  and 
should  be  avoided  by  all  vessels. 

Summer  Bay,  the  large,  shallow  bight,  3  miles  from  Constantine  Bay  and  opj^osite 
Ulakhta  Head,  is  shoal,  and  its  shores  are  lined  with  kelp-marked  rocks  and  ledges.  At  its 
southern  headland  is  Pinnacle  Rock,  about  60  feet  high.  This  bay  is  an  excellent  place  to 
seine  for  salmon.     The  bay  should  be  avoided  by  vessels. 

Iliuliuk  Bay  extends  from  Pinnacle  Rock  and  Ulakhta  Head  to  Iliuliuk.  To  the 
northward  of  Spithead  there  is  a  ridge  extending  across  the  bay,  having  a  least  dejith  of  10 
fathoms.  South  of  this  ridge  the  depths  increase  to  16  and  19  fathoms.  There  is  anchorage 
anywhere  in  the  bay.  The  usual  anchorage  is  at  the  head  in  14  to  16  fathoms,  muddy 
bottom,  where,  even  with  northerly  winds,  the  force  of  the  sea  does  not  seem  to  reach 
home.  At  the  head  of  Iliuliuk  Bay,  behind  the  village,  there  is  a  distinct  ravine  or  break 
in  the  mountains,  which  extends  through  to  the  water  to  the  southward.  This  is  a  iiseful 
guide  for  entering  the  bay  and  inner  harbor. 


BERING    SEA    AND    ARCTIC   OCEAN.  23 

DUTCH  HARBOR  is  ou  the  west  side  of  Iliuliuk  Bay.  Its  entrance  is  between  Spit- 
head  and  Rocky  Point.  The  water  is  deep  close  to  the  shores,  and  in  all  parts  of  the  harbor, 
except  off  Rockj-  Point,  where  there  is  a  reef  making  off  a  little  less  than  ^  mile,  marked  at 
its  end  by  a  buoy.  The  entrance  between  Spithead  and  the  end  of  the  reef  off  Rocky  Point 
is  about  i  mile  wide,  with  a  depth  of  18  fathoms.  Anchorage  may  be  had  throughout  the 
harbor  in  from  14  to  19  fathoms.     Violent  williwaAvs  are  experienced,  with  strong  winds. 

The  headquarters  of  the  North  American  Commercial  Comiiany  for  this  part  of  Alaska 
are  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Dutch  Harbor.  In  front  of  their  warehouses  and  coal 
depot  an  L-shaped  wharf  extends  out  to  deep  water.  Large  ships  can  lie  at  the  outer  end, 
which  is  about  200  feet  long,  and  there  is  ample  room  for  small  vessels  on  the  inside  of  the  L. 
The  post  office  of  Udakta  is  now  established  at  Dutch  Harbor. 

Supplies. — There  is  a  stock  of  several  thousand  tons  of  coal  carried  by  the  company, 
whicli  can  be  obtained,  delivered  on  the  wharf,  at  from  $10  to  $13  per  ton,  at  the  rate  of 
from  ]  50  to  250  tons  per  day.  Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  from  a  hydrant  on  the  wharf  at 
^  cent  per  gallon. 

The  company's  store  carries  a  supply  of  ship  chandlery  and  outfits,  and  is  well  stocked 
with  canned  goods  and  salt  provisions.  Fresh  meats  and  provisions  can  be  obtained  at 
times. 

There  is  a  small  machine  shop  and  blacksmith  shop,  where  light  work  can  be  done  by 
the  vessel. 

IIjIULIUK  harbor  is  joined  to  the  head  of  Iliuliuk  Bay  l)y  the  jaassage  between 
Iliuliuk  Reef  and  the  village  of  Iliuliuk  (Unalaska). 

Channels. — The  channel  generally  used  is  the  one  to  the  southward  of  Iliuliuk  Reef,  on 
either  side  of  Tuscarora  Rock,  and  has  a  least  depth  of  about  5  fathoms.  There  is  a  chan- 
nel north  of  Iliuliuk  Reef,  between  it  and  North  Rock,  which  has  a  least  depth  of  3^  fathoms, 
but  should  not  be  attempted  except  with  local  knowledge. 

Anchorage. — Iliuliuk  Harbor  is  small,  perfectly  landlocked,  with  good  holding  ground, 
and  an  average  depth  of  10  fathoms.  The  headquarters  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Com- 
pany are  at  Iliuliuk,  and  the  company  has  a  wharf  projecting  into  the  harbor  from  the 
western  end  of  the  spit  on  which  the  village  is  located. 

Iliuliuk  is  the  original  Russian  settlement.  There  is  a  Greek  church  here  with  a  paro- 
chial school,  also  a  Methodist  mission  school.  The  post  office.  United  States  deputy  col- 
lector, and  United  States  commissioner  for  this  general  locality  are  located  here.  The  post 
office  is  called  Ounalaska. 

Supplies,  etc. — The  Alaska  Commercial  Company  luis  a  well-stocked  general  store  and 
very  commodious  warehouses  for  its  own  iise  at  Iliuliuk.  There  is  a  limited  amount  of 
coal  kept  on  hand  which  is  usually  not  for  sale;  a  coaling  station  is  contemplated  at  this 
point.  Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  at  the  wharf,  and  boats  can  water  on  Amaknak  Island, 
o])p()site  the  wharf. 

Tides.— See  tide  table,  jiages  10-11. 

The  tidal  current  in  Dutch  Harbor  is  inappreciable,  and  in  Iliuliuk  Harbor  does  not 
exceed  one  knot. 

Ice. — The  bay  is  open  to  navigation  at  all  seasons.  It  is  reported  that  on  two  occasions 
the  drift  ice  of  Bering  Sea  entered  Unalaska  Bay,  but  such  occurrences  are  very  rare  and 
need  not  be  considered.  Ice  often  forms  in  the  sheltered  coves  and  harbors  in  cold,  calm 
weather,  but  it  never  attains  any  thickness  or  interferes  with  navigation. 

SAIIiING   DIRECTIONS,   UNALASKA   BAT. 

General  directions  for  approaching  and  entering.— When  bound  for  Unalaska 
Bay  from  any  part  of  Bering  Sea,  it  is  recommended  to  shape  the  course  for  Cape  Cheerful. 
In  thick  weather  it  is  bettor  to  fall  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Cheerful  and  then  round  it  than 
to  fall  to  the  eastward  of  it  and  get  down  among  the  passes.  Makushin  Volcano,  5,474  feet 
high,  can  generally  be  seen  in  (dear  weather,  and  is  very  prominent.     An  extinct  crater, 


24  BULLETIN   XO.  40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

'2,314  feet  high,  ]>ack  of  Capo  Clieerful  and  west  of  Eider  Point,  gives  a  distinct  point  for 
which  to  steer  until  close  enough  to  distinguish  the  surrounding  features.  On  getting  close 
to  the  island,  when  the  fog  hangs  over  the  laud  but  leaves  a  clear  space  just  along  the  water's 
edge,  Wislow  Island  forms  a  good  landmark.  It  is  a  very  small,  rounded  island,  regular  in 
shape,  and  stands  off  far  enough  from  the  land  to  be  distinctly  seen  as  not  a  part  of  the  main 
island.  To  the  westward,  under  similar  conditions,  Makushin  Cape  can  be  seen  at  times. 
The  land  slopes  gently  to  the  cape  from  Makushin  Volcano,  and  ends  in  a  small,  peak-like 
formation  at  the  end  of  the  cape.  From  the  eastward  the  cascade  south  of  Cape  Cheerful  is 
also  useful.  Strangers,  when  in  the  vicinity  and  uncertain  of  the  identity  of  the  bay  and  its 
landmarks,  sliould  endeavor  to  pick  out  Ulakhta  Head.  Looking  into  the  bay,  its  flat  top 
breaking  off  abruptly  to  sloping  sides  presents  an  appearauce  unlike  any  other  in  the  vicinity, 
and  shows  tip  well  against  the  background  of  mountains.  When  sighted,  steer  for  it,  leave 
it  on  the  stai-board  luind,  and  follow  around,  keeping  out  of  kelp. 

Cape  Kalekhta  to  anchorage.— Having  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Kalekhta, 
bring  it  to  bear  ESE.,  distant  1^  miles,  and  steer  S.  i  W.  This  course  made  good  for  about 
7  miles  leads  to  a  position  in  line  between  Pinnacle  Rock  and  Ulakhta  Head,  slightly  nearer 
the  former.  Then  change  course  to  SSW.  i  W.,  heading  for  the  ravine  back  of  the  village 
at  the  head  of  Iliuliuk  Bay,  and  anchor  near  the  liead  of  the  bay,  in  14  to  IG  fathoms. 

If  desiring  io  eider  Dutch  Harbor,  on  the  SSW.  ^  W.  course,  when  Spithead  bears 
abeam,  change  course  to  WSW.  ^  W.,  aud  anchor  in  the  harbor  as  desired. 

If  desiring  to  enter  IliHlink  Harbor,  continue  tlie  SSW.  ^  W.  course  until  the  buoy  or 
kelp  marking  Tuscarora  Rock  is  sighted.  Then  haul  to  the  westward  and  j^ass  the  rock 
close-to  on  either  side,  keeping  out  of  the  kelp.  Botli  Tuscarora  Rock  and  Iliuliuk  Reef 
are  well  marked  by  kelp,  which  serves  as  a  guide  if  the  buoys  are  not  in  place.  When 
clear  of  the  kelp  on  Tuscarora  Rock  haul  to  the  northward  to  pass  in  mid-channel  between 
the  western  di-y  rocks  of  Iliuliuk  Reef  and  the  shore  to  the  southward;  then  steer  to  enter 
the.  harbor  in  mid-channel.  Anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  harbor  in  10  fathoms.  Or  in 
entering  the  harbor  the  north  side  may  be  favored,  if  desired,  to  allow  room  for  turning  to 
go  to  the  wharf. 

Remarks. — On  the  S.  V  W.  course  the  shore  to  the  northward  of  Constautine  Bay  is 
passeil  at  a  least  distance  of  |  luile.  In  thick  weather,  when  following  along  the  east  shore, 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  enter  Constautine  or  Summer  bay  by  mistake.  This  has  some- 
times occurred  when  tlie  opjjosite  headland  could  not  be  made  out.  In  passing  to  the 
southward  of  Tuscarora  Rock,  vessels  are  obliged  to  make  a  very  sharp  turn  to  the  west- 
ward, and  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  off  the  beach. 

DANGERS. — Navigators  should  avoid  the  kelp,  which  invariably  indicates  a  rocky 
bottom. 

A  large  cluster  of  rocks,  mostly  awash,  and  usually  marked  by  breakers,  extends  nearly 
200  yards  to  the  westward  of  the  south  head  of  Constautine  Bay. 

Pinnacle  Rock  is  surrounded  by  reefs,  awasli  aiid  under  water,  for  a  distance  of  300 
yards.  Between  Pinnacle  Rock  and  a  point  opposite  the  entrance  to  Dutch  Harbor  the  east 
shore  is  lined  with  rocks,  and  should  not  be  approached  closer  than  ^  mile. 

The  spit  has  a  kelp-marked  shoal  on  its  east  .side  which  extends  its  whole  length;  at  its 
middle  point  the  shoal  extends  i  mile  from  shore.  Spithead  is  bold-to,  and  may  be  safely 
approached  as  close  as  150  yards.  There  is  a  beacon,  about  15  feet  higli,  standing  close 
to  its  southern  shore. 

Rocky  Point  has  a  kelp-marked  reef  which  extends  toward  Spithead  about  350  yards ; 
eastward  of  the  point  shoal  water  makes  out  about  200  yards  with  little  kelp.  The 
northern  extremity  of  the  reef  is  marked  by  a  buoy  painted  white. 

From  Rocky  Point  south,  the  shore  of  Amaknak  Island  should  uot  be  approached 
closer  than  300  yards. 

Iliuliuk  Reef  consists  of  a  ledge  of  rocks,  portions  of  which  are  always  exposed, 
extending  in  an  east  and  west  direction  for  250  yards.     From  the  eastern  dry  rock  a 


BERING    SEA    AND    ARCTIC   OCEAN.  25 

2i-fatliom  ledge,  marked  by  kelp,  extends  S.  by  E.  J  E.  150  yards.     The  southern  extremity 
of  this  ledge  is  sometimes  marked  by  a  buoy. 

Tuscarora  Rock  is  a  oi-fathom  spot,  marked  by  kelp,  which  lies  about  50  yards 
SSE.  J  E.  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Iliuliuk  Reef.  It  is  small  and  generally  marked 
by  an  iron  bai-rel  buoy.  These  buoj's  are  maintained  by  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company, 
and  may  be  followed  if  in  place. 

BRISTOL  BAY.* 

Bristol  Bay  may  be  said  to  include  all  that  part  of  Bering  Sea  lying  east  of  a  line  drawn 
from  Cajje  Saritehey  (Northwest  Cape),  Uuimak  Island,  to  the  Kuskokwim  River.  Unimak 
Island  and  the  Alaska  Peninsula  bound  it  on  the  south  and  east,  and  separate  it  from  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  The  Naknek  River  is  at  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation,  while  the  bay 
itself  terminates  in  the  Kvichak  River,  a  few  miles  northward.  The  region  about  the 
Nushagak  River,  Kululak  Bay,  and  the  Kuskokwim  forms  its  northwest  boundary. 

The  shore  lines  are  usually  low  and  without  distinctive  features,  but  high  mountain 
ranges  and  volcanic  cones  extend  along  the  central  parts  of  Uuimak  Island  and  the  Alaska 
Peninsula.  These  rugged  snow-covered  mountains  and  lofty  peaks  would  serve  as  unmis- 
takable landmarks  were  thej'  not  obscured  by  the  almost  constant  fogs  which  prevail  in  that 
region  during  the  summer  months.  In  fact,  they  were  so  seldom  visible  during  the  season 
of  1890  that  the  officers  of  the  Albatross  made  no  pretense  of  using  them  as  landmarks. 
The  shore  line  and  objects  near  the  sea  level  were  often  seen  beneath  the  fog  when  the 
higher  lands  were  obscured,  and,  therefore,  most  of  the  available  landmarks  were  found  on 
or  near  the  beach. 

THE  COAST  FROM  tTNIMAK  PASS  TO  PORT  MOLLER. 

Cape  Saritehey  (Northwest  Cape),  Unimak  Island,  is  low  with  detached  rocks, 
around  which  strong  tidal  currents  sweep.  The  land  falls  away  eastward  in  a  gentle  curve, 
forming  an  open  bay  about  4  miles  in  depth  between  the  cape  and  Cave  Point,  which  lies 
NNE.  \  E.,  IG  miles  from  the  former.  Cave  Point  is  a  vertical  rocky  cliff,  about  150  feet 
in  height,  and  takes  its  name  from  a  cave  on  its  face,  inhabited  by  sea  birds,  which  in 
summer  time  hover  about  it  in  thousands,  making  it  conspicuous  in  clear  weather  by  their 
numbers,  and  in  fogs  by  their  constant  cries.  The  snow-clad  peak  of  Pogrumnoi  Volcano, 
rising  to  an  altitude  of  5,523  feet  above  the  sea,  forms  a  striking  background  to  the  low, 
monotonous  coast. 

Passing  Cape  Lapin,  a  low  bluff  point  about  8  miles  from  Cave  Point,  tlio  coast  falls 
away  slightly  for  0  miles,  when  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  eastward  for  5  miles,  and  then 
takes  a  northerly  direction,  forming  Shaw  Bay.  This  bay  is  open  to  the  northward,  but 
affords  protection  from  all  winds  from  the  southward  of  east  or  west.  The  approaches  are 
clear,  and  the  water  shoals  gradually  to  6  fathoms,  black  sand,  about  J  mile  from  shore. 

From  Shaw  Bay  to  Isanotski  Strait  the  coast  trends  in  a  northeasteidy  direction,  is  very 
low  and  has  several  rocky  patches  extending  from  i  to  1  mile  from  shore,  making  naviga- 
tion unsafe  inside  the  12-fathom  line.  The  volcano  of  Shishaldin  rises  8,953  feet  about 
midway  between  the  above  points  and  7  or  8  miles  inland.  Isanotski  Strait  is  available 
only  for  vessels  of  the  smallest  class. 

From  tlie  strait  to  Cape  Glasenap,  about  19  miles,  the  coast  line  retains  the  same 
general  direction  and  is  very  low  until  reaching  the  latter  point,  which  is  oval  in  form, 
about  150  feet  in  height,  and  has  been  called  Round  Point. 

Izenbek  Bay  covers  a  large  area  at  high  tide,  but  mucli  of  it  becomes  dry  at  low 
water.  A  small  vessel  may,  however,  find  a  secure  harbor  behind  the  cape.  The  channel 
follows  close  around  the  point,  and  has  a  depth  of  10  to  12  feet  on  the  bar. 


*  From  a  reconnoisance  by  Llout.  Commander  Z.  L.  Tanner,  U.  S.  N.,  commanding  U.  S.  8.  AtbalroWj  iu  1890. 


20  BULLETIN    NO.  40 SECOND    EDITION. 

Ainak  Island  is  of  volcanic  origin,  about  2^  miles  in  length,  14-  miles  in  width,  and 
1,GS2  feet  in  height.  It  lies  11  miles  northwest  from  Cape  Glasenap.  The  beaches  are 
mostly  of  huge  water-worn  bowlders,  having  vertical  bluffs  from  30  to  150  feet  in  height, 
with  moss-covered  plateaus,  which  in  summer  time  are  covered  with  a  rank  growth  of  grass 
and  wild  flowers.  The  central  peak  is  of  dark-brown  rock,  exceedingly  rugged  and  precip- 
itous, and  entirely  devoid  of  vegetation.  The  southeast  point  was  found  to  be  in  latitude 
55°  25'  05.6"  N.  and  longitude  163°  07'  33.6"  W.  There  is  foul  ground  off  the  northwest 
extremity  of  the  i.sland,  several  rocks  awash  or  under  water,  and  Sea  Lion  Rock  lying 
between  2  and  3  miles  distant.  The  latter  is  several  hundred  yards  in  extent  and  about  150 
feet  high,  its  slopes  being  occupied  by  an  extensive  rookery  of  sea  lions. 

The  Khudiakof  Islands  extend  about  19  miles  NNE.  ,V  E.,  between  Cape  Glasenap 
and  Neumann  (Moffett)  Point.  They  are  but  little  above  high  water,  and  some  of  them 
are  connected  by  narrow  spits  when  the  tide  is  out. 

From  Neumann  (Moffett)  Point  the  low  coast  trends  north  by  east  15  miles  to  Gerstle 
Bay,  then  to  the  northward  and  eastward  about  55  miles  to  Wolf  Point,  on  the  western 
side  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Moller. 

The  Khudubin  Islands  occupy  the  last  23  miles  of  this  distance.  They  are  very  low, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  them  from  the  mainland,  the  only  distinctive  feature  being 
a  knob  about  25  feet  high  on  the  east  end  of  Kritskoi.  The  land  between  Herendeen  Bay 
and  Nelson  Lagoon  is  very  low. 

POKT  MOLLER,  HERESTDEEST  BAY,  AND  VICINITY. 

Port  Moller  and  Herendeen  Bay  had  no  commercial  importance  until  the  recent  opening 
of  a  coal  mine*  in  the  latter,  which  has  drawn  attention  to  this  almost  unknown  region. 
The  Albatross  visited  the  mine  twice  during  the  season  of  1890,  and  made  a  survey  which 
was  found  to  be  sufficiently  accurate  for  purposes  of  navigation.  The  chart  should  be  used 
with  caution,  however,  until  it  is  ascertained  whether  the  extensive  banks  guarding  the 
entrance  are  permanent  or  shifting. 

To  enter  Fort  3Ioller  from  the  soufhirard,  pass  Walrus  Island  in  from  10  to  12  fathoms, 
and  bring  Entrance  Point,  the  eastern  point  of  entrance  to  Poi-t  Moller,  to  bear  ESE.  It 
will  then  be  about  8  miles  distant,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  the  southern  extremity 
of  a  high  and  bold  headland,  the  first  that  approaches  the  coast  between  that  point  and  Cape 
Glasenap.  Stand  in,  keeping  the  point  on  the  above  bearing  until  within  2  or  3  miles,  when 
it  will  show  as  a  low  spit  backed  by  a  cluster  of  hillocks,  the  high  land  before  referred  to 
being  seen  farther  inland.  Pass  Entrance  Point  at  a  distance  of  1  mile,  steering  about 
SSE.  1  E.,  and  stand  for  Harbor  Point,  4^  mile.s  S.  by  E.  from  Entrance  Point,  passing  it 
within  :^  of  a  mile,  where  anchorage  may  be  foimd.     Tlio  point  is  low. 

A  shoal  makes  off  from  Entrance  Point  about  NW.  by  N.  between  3  and  4  miles,  and 
vessels  making  for  the  hnvhor  from  the  northirard  are  liable  to  run  in  behind  it.  Entrance 
Point  should  not  be  brought  to  bear  to  the  southward  of  .southeast  after  having  approached 
within  4  miles  of  it. 

7'o  e7iier  Herendeen  Bay,  Ijriiig  Entrance  Point  to  bear  NE.  \  E.,  1  mile  distant,  and 
Point  Divide  SSW.  ;;  W.,  8f  miles  distant;  then  steer  for  the  latter,  keeping  it  on  that 
bearing  until  within  2^-  miles,  when  the  course  may  be  changed  to  about  SW.  J  S.,  passing 
in  mid-channel  between  Point  Divide  and  Doe  Point,  the  southeast  point  of  Deer  Island. 
The  least  water  is  4  fathoms  at  the  entrance  to  the  channel. 

Having  cleared  Hague  Channel,  bring  Coal  Bluff,  5  miles  SSE.  from  Point  Divide,  to 
bear  SE.  |  S.,  and  stand  for  it  until  Point  Divide  bears  N.  by  W.  ^  W.,  1.V  miles  distant 
and  about  400  yards  open  of  Doe  Point;  then  steer  SSE.  f  E.,  until  Eagle  Rock,  1 
mile  NNW.  from  Coal  Bluff,  is  abeam,  keeping  the  above  points  a  little  open  to  clear 
Half  Tide  Rock,  which  lies  NW.  by  W.  i  W^,  ^  mile  from  Eagle  Rock.      Then  steer 

*  Since  abandoned. 


BERING    SEA    AM)    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  27 

S.  by  E.  i  E.  until  Shiugle  Point,  2  miles  SSE.  from  Coiil  Bluff,  is  abeam,  wlieu  a  course 
may  be  laid  for  Mine  Harbor,  giving  Bluff  Point  a  berth  of  i  mile. 

Mine  Harbor  is  small  but  free  from  dangers,  except  Midway  Eeef,  wliich  shows  at 
half  tide.  Anchor  in  from  12  to  15  fathoms,  and  if  a  vessel  intends  to  remain  any  time  it 
is  advisable  to  moor. 

Tides. — It  is  high  water  in  Mine  Harbor,  full  and  change,  at  8h.  Om.,  rise  15  feet,  and 
it  occurs  at  Entrance  Point  about  2  hours  earlier,  with  a  rise  of  10  to  12  feet. 

Hague  Channel  is  1  mile  in  width  at  its  northern  entrance,  and  is  contracted  to  less 
than  i  mile  between  Point  Divide  and  Doe  Point.  The  tidal  streams  are  very  strong,  and 
near  high  water  they  sweej)  across  the  narrow  channel  and  over  the  flats,  making  it  impos- 
sible to  steer  a  compass  course.  They  are  more  regular  near  low  tide,  which  is  the  best 
time  to  make  the  passage,  as  the  channel  is  indicated  by  the  flats  showing  above  water  on 
either  hand. 

Johnston  Channel,  Hereudeen  Bay,  has  from  7  to  15  fathoms  of  water,  but  is  very 
narrow  with  steep  sides.  It  is  difficult  to  find,  but  once  in,  the  navigation  is  comparatively 
simple,  as  the  tidal  currents  follow  the  general  direction  of  deep  water.  The  width  of  the 
channel  at  the  northern  entrance,  i  mile  south  of  Point  Divide,  is  ^  mile,  with  little  varia- 
tion until  near  the  southern  extremity,  where  it  contracts  to  250  yards.  Having  cleared 
the  channel  and  entered  the  upjjer  bay,  there  is  ample  room  and  depth  of  water  in  every 
direction,  Crow  Reef,  off  the  south  point  of  Mine  Harbor,  being  the  onlj"  outlying  danger. 

Anchorages  may  be  found  anywhere  between  Walrus  Island  and  Entrance  Point  in 
case  of  fog,  and  a  vessel  may  anchor  in  Hague  Channel,  but  the  tidal  currents  are  strong. 
There  are  fairlj^  good  anchorages  under  the  north  side  of  Point  Divide  and  Doe  Point,  where, 
near  the  bank,  a  vessel  will  be  out  of  the  strength  of  the  current.  The  Albatross  anchored 
in  mid-channel,  1  mile  inside  of  the  above  points,  at  the  time  of  spring  tides,  and  the  flood 
came  in  with  a  bore  between  2  and  3  feet  in  height,  the  patent  log  registering  a  9- knot  cur- 
rent for  some  time,  with  a  swell  which  occasionally  splashed  into  the  scuppers.  There  is  a 
fair  anchorage  off  the  northern  eiitrance  to  Johnston  Channel,  and  an  excellent  one  at  its 
southern  extremity,  off  Marble  Point,  just  north  of  Shingle  Point,  or,  in  fact,  almost  any- 
where in  the  upper  bay.  The  last  quarter  of  the  flood  tide  is  the  best  time  to  pass  through 
this  channel. 

High  land  rises  at  the  base  of  Harbor  Point,  and  extends  to  the  northward  and  eastward 
near  the  center  of  the  peninsula.  Point  Divide  is  50  feet  in  height,  and  mountain  ranges 
rise  a  few  miles  back.  The  coal  measures  are  found  between  Mine  Harbor  and  the  head  of 
Port  Moller.  Doe  Point  is  40  feet  in  height,  while  the  rest  of  Deer  Island  and  the  mainland 
south  and  west  of  it  is  generally  lower.  The  southern  shores  of  Hereudeen  Bay  are  moun- 
tainous, with  intervening  valleys,  the  whole  face  of  the  country  being  covered  with  rank 
grass  and  wild  flowers  during  the  summer  months;  but  there  is  no  timber,  except  occasional 
sniall  poplars,  alder  bushes,  and  willows.  Fresh  winds,  with  fog  and  mist,  blow  across  the 
low  divides  from  the  Pacific,  obscuring  the  sun  and  greatly  increasing  the  rainfall  in  Port 
Moller  and  vicinity. 

The  region  is  uninhabited,  except  by  men  employed  at  the  coal  mine;  bear  and  reindeer 
were  plentiful,  and  the  waters  teemed  with  salmon.  There  are  no  large  fresh-water  streams 
entering  the  bay,  however,  which  probably  accounts  for  the  absence  of  Eskimos.  The  coal 
mine*  in  Hereudeen  Bay  lies  1^  miles  from  the  landing  in  Mine  Harbor. 

THE  COAST  FROM  PORT  JIOLiIjER  TO  THE  KUSKOKWIM  ROTSR. 

The  coast  is  low  for  19  miles  between  Entrance  Point  and  Cape  Kutuzof,  which  rises 
in  a  rounded  bluff  to  an  elevation  of  150  feet. 

Cape  Seniavine,  11  miles  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  is  a  rocky  point  75  feet  high. 
Passing  it,  the  low  monotonous  beach  continues  to  the  Seal  Islands,  the  only  exccjition 
being  a  cluster  of  small  hillocks  near  the  beach,  12  miles  from  Cape  Seniavine. 

*  Now  abandoned. 


28  BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  composed  of  several  small  islets,  but  little  above  high  water, 
strung  along  near  the  coast  for  about  10  miles;  thouce  to  Strogonof  Poiut  the  land  con. 
tinues  very  low. 

Port  Haiden  is  said  to  be  a  good  harbor,  but  we  did  not  examine  it.  Should  a  survey 
show  it  to  be  safe  and  easy  of  approach,  it  will  prove  a  great  convenience  to  vessels 
employed  on  the  northern  part  of  Baird  Bank.  The  approach  to  Port  Haiden  will  be 
recognized  by  high,  bold  headlands,  which  rise  from  its  northern  shore. 

Chestakof  Island,  low  and  crescent-shaped,  forms  the  seaward  side  of  the  harbor, 
the  channel  l)ing  between  its  northern  extremity  and  a  reef  which  makes  out  from  the 
laud.  The  same  low  coast  extends  to  Cape  Mencliikof  in  nearly  a  direct  line,  the  highland 
of  Port  Haiden  gradually  receding  from  the  coast. 

The  Ugashik  River  lies  northward  of  Cape  Mencliikof,  and  has  been  reported  navi- 
gable for  several  miles  by  vessels  of  14  feet  draft.  The  schooner  Pearl  enters  the  river,  but 
her  captain  reports  a  wide  bar  having  intricate  channels,  strong  currents,  and  usually  a 
heavy  swell.  Ten  feet  is  about  all  that  can  be  carried  in  with  safety.  Once  inside,  it  is 
reported  to  be  a  good  harbor,  but  it  can  hardly  be  considered  available  for  the  ordinary 
purposes  of  fishing  vessels.  Mr.  Hale,  superintendent  of  canneries,  reports  that  a  draft  of 
16  to  18  feet  can  be  taken  over  the  bar  into  Ugashik  Eiver. 

Cape  Greig,  a  bluff  243  feet  in  height,  and  a  peculiar  notched  mountain  some  distance 
inland,  are  good  landmarks  for  the  river.  The  h^w  coast  continues  from  the  cape  to  the 
Ugaguk  River,  and  thence  to  the  Naknek  River,  with  hardly  a  distinguishing  feature, 
except  Johnstons  Hill,  a  solitary  elevation,  5  miles  from  the  beach  and  about  9  miles 
S.  i  E.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Naknek.  The  coast  sweeps  in  a  graceful  curve  to  the  noith- 
ward  between  Cape  Greig  and  the  Ugaguk,  and  thence  to  the  eastward  to  the  Naknek 
River.  A  gravel  bank  lines  the  coast  in  several  places,  behind  which  a  narrow  strijj  of 
water  is  seen,  particularly  at  or  near  high  tide. 

The  Naknek  River  may  be  considered  as  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  in  Bristol 
Bay.  The  Albafross  found  anchorage  in  6  fathoms  about  6  miles  SW.  from  Cape  Suworof, 
the  water  shoaling  rapidly  to  3  fathoms  toward  the  head  of  the  bay.  Vessels  of  moderate 
draft  can  pass  the  bar  at  high  water,  but  there  is  hardly  depth  enough  to  float  a  ship's  boat 
when  the  tide  is  out.  It  is  deeper  inside,  however,  and  a  small  vessel  may  find  anchorage 
with  swinging  room.  There  is  a  fishing  station  on  the  river,  which  is  visited  periodically 
by  a  small  steam  tender.  The  South  Head  is  in  latitude  58°  42'  04.3"  N.  and  longitude 
157°  02'  45.4"  W. ;  high  water,  full  and  change,  Ih.  5m. ;  rise,  23  feet.  Shoal  ground  makes 
off  from  the  west  shore,  confining  the  channel  in  one  place  to  about  3  miles  in  width.  It 
may  possibly  be  a  middle  ground,  with  a  channel  on  either  side,  but  the  conditions  off 
Etolin  Point  seem  to  disprove  this. 

NUSHAGAK  KILTER. 

The  Nushagak  River  is  assuming  considerable  importance  as  the  location  of  a  trading 
station  and  of  a  number  of  large  well-equipped  salmon-canning  estal)lishmonts.  Protection 
Poiut,  the  entrance  to  the  river,  is  50  miles  SW.  liy  W.  from  the  Naknek  River,  and,  owing  to 
swift  currents  and  extensive  shoals,  it  may  be  classed  among  the  most  intricate  pieces  of 
navigation  in  Bristol  Bay.  A  G-knot  current  is  frequently  encountered,  hence  the  shifting 
of  banks  and  shoals  must  be  expected,  and  the  necessity  for  the  constant  use  of  the  hand 
lead  becomes  too  obvious  to  require  remark;  indeed  the  warning  from  a  lead  on  each  side  will 
leave  but  a  small  margin  of  safety  at  times.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  entrance  is  very 
low,  and  it  is  difficult  to  recognize  Etolin  Point  even  under  favorable  conditions.  A  vessel 
from  the  westward  would  make  the  Walrus  Group  and  follow  the  coast  to  Cajjc  Constantine, 
and.  having  cleared  the  outlying  shoals,  stand  in  for  Protection  Point,  whicli  is  difficult  of 
recognition  from  a  distance. 

Nichols  Hills,  2S0  feet  in  height,  are  a  cluster  of  rounded  elevations  5  miles  northwest 
of   Protection  Poiut,  and  are  the  first  natural  objects  distinguishable  on  the  peninsula. 


BEEING    SEA    AND   ARCTIC   OCEAN.  29 

Bring  tliem  to  bear  WN  W.  and  staad  in,  keeping  them  on  tliat  bearing  until  Protection 
Point  bears  about  soutli,  and  ancbor,  making  due  allowance  for  falling  tide. 

There  is  a  pilot  station  on  the  point,  with  a  small  flagstaff,  on  which  a  flag  will  be 
hoisted  if  the  pilot  is  at  home.  He  is  an  E;~kimo,  and  sj^eaks  very  little  English,  but  he 
knows  the  channel.  If  he  is  not  at  the  point  when  the  vessel  arrives,  he  will  probably  be 
at  Ekuk,  and  maj^  be  expected  on  board  within  a  few  hours  if  the  weather  is  not  too  rough 
for  his  kayak.     A  stranger  should  not  attempt  to  enter  without  a  pilot,  unless  from  necessity. 

Clarks  Point  is  18  miles  N.  by  W.  from  Protection  Point,  the  usual  anchorage  being 
from  i  mile  to  1  mile  above  it. 

Ekuk,  an  Eskimo  village,  is  on  the  bluft'  nearly  3  miles  below  Clarks  Point. 

Clarks  Point  is  a  bluff  200  feet  in  height,  beginning  below  Ekuk  and  extending  2  or  3 
miles  up  the  river,  and  thence  to  Nushagak.  It  varies  from  100  to  150  feet  in  height.  The 
west  side  is  generally  lower,  but  from  Coffee  Point,  4  miles  NW.  from  Clarks  Point,  to  the 
northward  the  bluffs  rise  from  50  to  200  feet. 

Clarks  Point  (foot  of  bluff),  is  in  latitude  58°  49'  14"  N.  and  longitude  158°  31'  43.9"  W. 
High  water,  full  and  change,  Oh.  53m.,  approximate;  rise,  24  feet. 

The  reconnoissance  of  the  Lower  Nushagak  was  made  di;ring  the  few  days  we  were 
detained  in  the  river.  The  principal  points  are  located  by  triangulation ;  Clai'ks  Point  by 
astronomical  observations,  and  the  reduction  of  soundings  to  low  water  depends  upon  the 
tides  during  our  stay.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  we  were  unable  to  extend  the  soundings  to 
the  west  shore. 

The  Nushagak  Packing  Company  have  a  cannery  at  Clarks  Point,  and  there  are  three 
others,  besides  a  trading  station,  in  the  river,  the  latter  at  Nushagak,  formerly  called  Fort 
Alexander.  Vessels  of  moderate  draft  can  reach  the  canneries,  and  with  a  little  care  find 
anchorage  with  sufficient  water  even  during  the  lowest  tides.  The  timber  line  is  well 
defined  about  3  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Wood  River,  and  extends  to  the  westward  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  weather  was  pleasant  during  our  stay,  and  from  all  reports  they 
have  less  fog  in  the  Nushagak  than  in  any  other  part  of  Bering  Sea. 

Mr.  Hale,  superintendent  of  canneries,  states  that  vessels  of  21  feet  draft  enter  the 
Nushagak  River  to  Clarks  Point;  that  the  channel  between  Cape  Constantine  and  Point 
Etoliu,  though  tortuous  and  requiring  a  good  pilot,  affords  plenty  of  water;  and  that  sailing- 
vessels  require  a  tug  in  entering  and  leaving.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  in  the  river  is 
28  feet,  leaving  sufficient  water  in  the  channel,  at  mean  low  water,  for  deep  draft  vessels. 

Cape  Constantine,  the  soiitheast  extremity  of  land  at  the  entrance  to  the  Nushagak, 
is  very  low,  and  shoals  extend  10  or  12  miles  southward  and  eastward,  making  its  approach 
in  thick  weather  very  dangerous.  There  is  said  to  be  a  channel  between  the  caj^e  and  the 
first  shoal,  but  the  report  requires  verification.  The  coast  line  increases  in  height  west- 
ward of  the  cape,  the  headlands  in  Kulnlak  and  Togiak  bays  reaching  an  altitude  of  500  feet 
or  more. 

The  "Walrus  Group  is  composed  of  three  islands  and  three  rocks,  all  above  water, 
extending  It)  miles  east  and  west  and  about  6  miles  north  and  south. 

Round  Island,  the  easternmost  of  the  group,  lies  W.  i  S.,  3C  miles  from  Cape  Con- 
stantine. It  is  nearly  2  miles  in  length,  |  mile  wide,  and  about  800  feet  high,  its  west  end 
being  in  latitude  58°  3G'  09"  N.,  longitude  159°  57'  51.7"  W. 

Crooked  Island  is  between  4  and  5  miles  in  length  and  2  miles  in  greatest  width.  The 
eastern  part  is  rather  low,  but  toward  the  western  exti-emity  the  elevation  is  nearly  equal 
to  that  of  Round  Island.  There  is  quite  a  large  bay  on  tlie  northeast  side,  Vmt  we  did  not 
examine  it. 

High  Island,  the  westernmost  of  the  group,  is  4  miles  in  length,  about  1  mile  in  width, 
and  900  feet  or  more  in  height. 

The  Twins  are  two  isolated  rocks  4  miles  to  the  southward  of  Crooked  Island,  the 
larger  300  and  the  smaller  100  feet  in  height. 


30  BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITfON. 

Black  Rock,  aLoiit  150  feet  high,  lies  1  mile  northward  of  the  south  end  of  Crooked 
Island. 

No  other  outlying  dangers  were  seen  in  passing  between  the  islands  and  the  mainland. 
From  G  to  10  fathoms  were  found  ahi'east  the  "group,  the  depth  gradually  decreasing  to  3 
fathoms  off  the  north  eud  of  Hagemeister  Island.  We  were  near  the  shore,  however,  and 
would  doiibtless  have  found  more  water  in  mid-channel. 

Hagemeister  Island  lies  9  miles  west  of  High  Island,  and  is  l-t  miles  in  length  and  8 
in  width.  It  is  mountainous  except  for  about  5  miles  at  the  north  end.  Shoal  ground 
surrounds  the  island  and  extends  from  20  to  25  miles  to  the  eastward,  including  the  area 
between  Hagemeister  and  the  Walrus  Group. 

Hagemeister  Channel  is  about  16  miles  in  length  and  lies  between  the  island  of  that 
name  and  the  mainland.  It  is  from  3  to  4  miles  in  width,  but  shingle  spits  contract  it  in 
two  places  to  less  than  3  miles.  The  least  water  was  i\  fathoms.  Good  anchorage  was 
found  under  Tongue  Point,  the  shingle  spit  making  out  from  the  mainland  about  midway 
of  the  channel.  From  the  above  anchorage  the  Albatross  stood  directly  to  sea,  passing 
within  a  mile  of  the  southwestern  extremity  of  Hagemeister  Island ;  thence  S.  ^  "W.,  shoaling 
the  water  to  3  fathoms  7  miles  from  the  island.  Greater  depths  might  possibly  be  found 
by  taking  a  more  westerly  course.  The  tidal  currents  are  very  strong  through  the  channel. 
We  were  visited  by  a  number  of  Eskimos  while  at  anchor  under  Tongue  Point. 

Cape  Peirce  is  of  moderate  height  and  symmetrical  form.  Depths  of  10  fathoms  are 
found  2  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  cape,  and  good  anchorage  in  10  fathoms  of  water  is 
found  inside  Seal  Island  (the  island  lying  just  to  the  eastward  of  the  cape). 

Cape  Newenham  is  a  high,  bold,  headland,  with  sharp  peaks  and  rugged  lines.  In 
1899  the  U.  S.  S.  Co rwrn  passed  within  3  miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Newenham -and 
carried  4  to  5  fathoms  of  water.  While  following  the  land  at  a  distance  of  2  miles,  and 
keeping  out  of  the  indentations  between  Cape  Newenham  and  Goodnews  Bay,  the  depths 
wei'e  3-5-  to  4  fathoms  until  within  3  miles  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  where  the  water  shoals 
abruptly.  The  Albatross  found  anchorage  under  the  latter  cape  near  Seal  Rock  during  a 
southerlj^  gale,  and  laid  it  out  very  comfoi'tably,  notwithstanding  swift  currents  and  heavy 
tide  rips. 

The  Kuskokwim  River  is  much  dreaded  by  navigators  on  account  of  its  extensive 
shoals,  strong  currents,  etc.  The  Albatross  ascended  it  between  35  and  40  miles  without 
difficulty  or  delay,  but  encountered  extensive  shoals  on  her  return.  Thick  weather  and  the 
lack  of  time  prevented  an  extended  examination.  They  commenced  about  9  miles  WSW. 
from  Goodnews  Bay  and  extended  in  a  westerly  direction  for  10  miles  or  more.  There  is  a 
channel  between  the  shoal  and  the  land  about  4  miles  wide,  having  a  depth  of  5  fathoms. 
From  a  point  5  miles  WSW.  from  the  west  head  of  Goodnews  Bay  we  stood  direct  for  Cape 
Newenham,  the  least  depth  being  4  fathoms.  Great  quantities  of  fresh  water  are  borne 
down  the  Kuskokwim  by  the  rapid  currents,  and,  while  there  have  been  no  surveys  by  which 
changes  can  be  noted,  there  seems  no  reasonable  doubt  that  great  alterations  have  taken 
place  since  Cook  ascended  the  river  in  the  last  century. 

METEOROI.OGICAL,  CONDITIOKS  OF  BRISTOL  BAY. 

The  winds  and  weather  in  Bristol  Bay  and  the  other  jiarts  of  Bering  Sea  visited  by  the 
Albatross  from  the  last  of  May  to  the  1st  of  September,  1890,  may  be  summarized  in  a  few 
words. 

Southwest  winds  prevailed,  but  we  had  them  frequently  from  southeast  to  northwest. 
It  was  boisterous  weather  nearly  half  the  time,  but  seldom  rough  enough  to  interfere  with 
our  work.  We  had  several  summer  gales  of  moderate  force,  but  no  severe  storms.  Fog 
and  mist  prevailed,  and  a  clear  day  was  the  rare  exception.  The  tidal  currents  were 
strongest  in  the  vicinity  of  Unimak  Pass  and  at  the  head  of  the  bay;  they  were  greatly 
affected,  however,  by  the  winds.  The  flood  stream  set  to  the  northward  and  slightly  inshore 
along  the  coasts  of  Unimak  Island  and  the  peninsula,  the  ebb  to  the  southward  and  offshore. 


BERING   SEA   AND    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  31 

The  former  was  invariably  the  stronger,  and  probably  found  an  outlet  by  sweeping  past 
Cape  Constantino  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Newenham.  There  has  been  no  systematic  study 
of  the  currents  of  Bering  Sea,  and  the  almost  constant  fogs  prevent  the  navigator  from 
adding  mucli  to  our  meager  knowledge  concerning  them. 


PRIBILOF  ISLANDS. 

This  group  consists  of  St.  Paul,  St.  George,  Otter,  and  Walrus  islands.  The  two  latter 
are  small  and  uninhabited.  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  are  imjiortant  as  containing  the 
largest  and  most  numerous  seal  rookeries  of  the  world.  These  two  islands  are  each  in 
charge  of  a  United  States  Government  agent,  and  are  at  present  under  lease  to  the  North 
American  Commercial  Comjjany.  Excepting  vessels  of  the  United  States  Government  and 
those  in  the  employ  of  the  company,  all  vessels  are  forbidden  landing  on  these  islands. 
There  are  no  harbors  about  the  islands,  and  the  anchorages  are  only  available  with  the  wind 
off  the  land.  Because  of  the  uncertain  and  shifting  nature  of  the  wind  in  this  locality, 
vessels  should  always  anchor  with  a  view  of  getting  under  way  quickly  if  necessary. 

Fogs  are  especially  thick  and  prevalent  in  this  vicinity  in  the  summer,  and  navigation 
is  attended  with  difficulty  and  danger. 

These  islands  are  at  about  the  southern  limit  of  the  ice  in  Bering  Sea.  Detached  fields 
of  ice  will  generally  be  found  in  their  vicinity  from  February  to  May. 

ST.  GEOEGE  ISLAND. 

St.  George  Island  consists  mainly  of  high  volcanic  hills  and  ridges,  and  its  entire  shore 
is  a  preciiiitous  cliff  except  for  a  few  miles  on  the  north  side  and  short  intervals  at  Garden 
Cove  and  Zapadui  Bay.  The  east  and  west  extremities  of  the  island,  Tolstoi  and  Daluoi 
points,  are  both  bold  promontories. 

High  Bluff,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  1,012  feet  high,  is  a  prominent  landmark, 
and  is  plainly  visible  from  St.  Paul  Island,  a  distance  of  nearly  40  miles,  on  a  clear  day. 
There  are  no  harbors,  but  vessels  anchor  at  North  Anchorage,  Garden  Cove,  and  Zapadni 
Baj^,  according  to  the  direction  of  the  wind ;  the  anchorages  are  poor  except  with  the  wind 
directlj'  off  the  land.  At  a  distance  generally  not  greater  than  2  miles  from  the  island  the 
depth  of  water  is  but  little  less  than  the  surrounding  sea,  and  in  thick  weather  it  is  not 
safe  to  depend  upon  soundings  for  picking  up  the  land  unless  sure  of  the  position.  Vessels 
sliould  not  approach  the  island  in  less  than  12  fathoms  of  water.  Tliere  are  no  outlying 
dangers  except  the  small  reefs  at  Zapadni  Bay  and  at  North  Anchorage.  It  is  reported  that 
vessels  have  found  breakers,  in  very  heavy  weather,  about  9  miles  east  of  Tolstoi  Point. 

Anchorages. — The  anchorage  in  Zapadni  Bay,  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  island,  in 
10  fathoms  of  water,  affords  good  shelter  with  winds  from  east-northeast  to  north-northwest. 
The  landing  is  on  the  open  sand  beach,  and  can  usually  be  made  with  northerly  winds.  A 
reef  extends  about  ^  m\\v  oft'sliore  to  the  soutliward  of  the  anchorage. 

With  northerly  winds,  a  landing  may  sometimes  be  made  at  Garden  Cove,  on  the 
sand  beach.  The  anchorage  affords  good  shelter  from  nnrtliwesterly  winds,  bu(  with  the 
exception  of  a  small  area  the  bottom  is  rocky. 

At  North  Anchorage  there  are  two  houses  on  the  beach,  with  a  road  back  of  them 
leading  up  the  hill  tu  the  village.  In  approaching,  get  these  two  houses  open  and  steer  for 
them.  Anchor  in  not  less  than  10  fathoms.  A  flag  is  shown  from  the  flagstaff  when 
landing  is  possible.  The  landing  westward  of  the  houses  is  a  cutting  in  the  rocks  for  small 
boats  to  enter  at  high  or  medium  tides.  It  is  somewhat  j^rotected  by  a  ledge  of  rocks  north 
of  it,  and  by  kelp,  whicli  tends  to  reduce  the  breakers.  At  East  Landing,  just  northeast  of 
the  village,  is  a  similar  boat  landing,  but  better  jjrotected  fi'oui  a  westerly  swell.  A  ledge 
of  rocks  awash  lies  a  short  distance  off  this  landing. 

Tidal  Currents. — The  current  sets  eastward  during  the  rising  tide  and  westward  dur- 
ing the  falling  tide,  with  a  maximum  velocity  of  2j   knots.     With  opposing  wind  and 


32  BULLETIN    NO.  40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

current,  tide  rips  occur  off  Tolstoi  and  Dalnoi  points.  Tliese  rips  are  not  heavy  enough  to 
be  of  any  moment,  except  that  to  strangers  they  may  appear  to  be  breakers.  The  water  off 
both  points  is  deep  and  they  can  be  passed  close-to  with  safety. 

OTTER  ISLAND. 

Otter  Island  has  an  abrupt  bluff  at  its  southwest  end,  288  feet  high,  sloping  gradually  to 
the  north  and  rising  again  in  a  crater,  150  feet  high,  at  its  extreme  east  end.  Foul  ground, 
marked  by  kel]i,  extends  aboiit  f  mile  from  the  island  on  its  south,  southwest,  and  north 
sides.  The  north  side,  from  Crater  Point  to  Northwest  Reef,  is  clear  of  dangers.  Probably 
the  best  anchorage  near  the  island  is  in  9^  fathoms,  black  sand  and  broken  shells,  with  the 
northeast  extremity  of  Crater  Point  bearing  S.  by  E.,  distant  -J  mile.  This  island  must  be 
approached  with  great  caution  in  thick  weather,  ami  at  all  times  keep  out  of  kelp.  Between 
Otter  Island  and  Reef  Point,  St.  Paul  Island,  the  tidal  currents  are  strong,  and  with  heavy 
winds  dangei'ous  tide  rips  occur. 

WALEUS  ISLAND. 

Walrus  Island  is  low,  about  15  or  20  feet  above  the  water,  level  on  top,  and  composed 
of  irregular  masses  of  volcanic  rock.  It  is  about  f  mile  long  and  i  mile  wide.  Anchorage 
can  be  had  on  either  side  of  it,  i  to  ^|-  mile  offshore,  in  10  to  15  fathoms.  Landing  can  be 
made  with  smooth  water,  the  best  place  for  this  purpose  being  in  a  small  cove  at  the  southwest 
corner.     The  island  is  a  bad  place  to  make  in  a  fog. 

Parts  of  Otter  and  Walrus  islands  are  covered  with  sea  lurds  in  the  breeding  season, 
and  at  the  proper  time  a  plentiful  supplj'  of  eggs  may  be  obtained. 

ST.  PAUL  ISLAND. 

The  west  and  southwest  sides  of  St.  Paul  Island  are  high  and  mountainous,  with 
precipitous  cliffs  at  the  shore  line.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  a  comparatively  low,  rolling 
plateau,  with  a  number  of  extinct  volcanic  peaks  scattered  over  its  sui-face.  Bogoslof,  590 
feet  high,  a  conical  crater  near  the  center  of  the  Island,  and  Polovina,  a  double-peaked  hill 
near  its  east  end,  are  very  conspicuous,  and  are  the  best  landmarks  in  clear  weather  when 
coming  from  tJie  southward.  From  this  hill  the  island  stretches  away  in  a  low,  narrow  neck 
to  Hutchinson  Hill,  on  Northeast  Point.  West  of  Lukanin  Bay  the  shore  of  the  south  side 
of  the  island  is  rocky,  with  bluffs  at  the  points.  The  shore  of  the  rest  of  the  island  is 
generally  a  sand  beach,  with  rocks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  seal  rookeries. 

Dangers.— The  north  shore  from  Cross  Hill  to  Southwest  Point  is  free  of  dangers,  no 
reefs  or  rocks  up  to  within  -J-  mile  of  land,  except  off  North  Hill ;  Tint  the  bottom  is  uneven 
and  rocky  and  the  anchorage  not  generally  good. 

Breakers  extend  off  SouthAvest  Point  a  distance  of  -k  mile  or  more. 

A  dangerous  ledge  of  rocks,  \isually  marked  by  breakers,  extends  oft'  Reef  Point  fully 
i  mile. 

A  reef  extends  oft'  Stony  Point  about  i  mile. 

The  rocks  off  Sea  Lion  Neck  should  be  given  a  berth  of  at  least  1  mile.  The  dangerous 
reef  north  of  Hutchinson  Hill,  the  northeast  point  of  the  island,  consists  of  two  rocks  marked 
by  keljj.  There  are  3^  fathoms  on  the  outer  rock  and  3  fathoms  on  the  inner.  The  outer 
kelp  patch  is  a  little  less  than  1  mile  N.  by  "W.  i  W.  from  Hutchinson  Hill.  There  are 
depths  of  4.  5,  and  (5^  fathoms  close  in  to  the  shore,  with  7^,  9,  and  13  fathoms  midway 
between  the  rocks  and  the  shore.  With  a  moderate  swell  the  sea  breaks  over  these  rocks 
and  for  a  short  distance  off  Northeast  Point. 

Oft'  North  Hill  a  shoal  extends  aboiit  i  mile  northward,  the  depths  gradually  increas- 
ing to  4,  5,  and  G|-  fathoms  at  the  distance  of  1  mile  from  the  shore.  A  rocky  patch,  with 
7  fathoms  water  on  it  and  9  to  K!  fathoms  around,  lies  with  Hutchinson  Hill  bearing  NE. 
by  E.  J  E.,  distant  3J  miles.  There  may  be  less  water  on  the  shoal,  as  the  locality  was  not 
fully  examined. 


BERI^'G    SEA    AXD    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  33 

Anchorage. — The  usual  anclionige  at  tliis  island  is  off  the  west  side  of  Reef  Point,  and 
there  is  also  an  anchoi'age  on  the  east  side,  off  Black  Bluffs.  From  the  anchorage  ou  the 
west  side  the  village  is  hidden,  but  there  is  a  flagstaff  on  the  top  of  the  hill  overlooking  the 
bay;  from  the  Black  Bluffs  anchorage  the  village  is  in  full  view,  and  there  is  another 
flagstaff",  the  lower  of  the  two,  on  this  side.  If  a  vessel  is  seen  approaching,  the  United 
States  ensign  is  hoisted  on  the  flagstaff'  on  the  side  on  which  she  ought  to  anchor,  and  the 
ensign  is  kept  flying  if  landing  is  safe,  but  hauled  down  if  it  is  not  safe. 

Vessels  should  not  attempt  to  ride  out  a  gale  at  anchor  near  the  islands,  unless  to 
leeward  and  well  sheltered.  The  surf  is  apt  to  make  quickly  and  is  dangerous  on  the 
weather  side  of  the  island. 

Lauding. — In  Village  Cove,  the  landing  place  on  the  west  side,  a  bar  extends  across 
the  entrance  on  wTiich  the  sea  breaks  unexpectedly,  and  is  often  dangerous  for  boats. 

The  landing  ou  the  east  side  is  a  small  cutting  in  the  rocks,  close  to  a  boathouse,  which 
is  the  only  house  near  the  beach ;  with  westerly  winds  landing  here  is  easy. 

A  landing  can  sometimes  be  made  at  the  head  of  the  cove  on  the  south  side  of  Lukanin 
Bay,  when  impracticable  at  Black  Bluffs  or  Village  Cove. 

Village. — The  village  consists  of  a  number  of  small  wooden  houses,  painted  white,  with 
dark  roofs,  a  church,  also  several  larger  buildings  for  the  Govei"nment  Agent  and  the  officers 
of  the  North  American  Commercial  Comiaany  (who  in  1890  obtained  a  lease  of  the  Pribilof 
seals  for  20  years).     There  are  about  250  inhabitants. 

Tides. — See  tide  table,  pages  10-11. 

Tidal  Current. — Aroimd  St.  Paul  Island  the  flood  tidal  current  sets  eastward  and 
the  ebb  westward,  following  the  trend  of  the  shore.  Its  velocity  at  the  surface  is  2^  knots 
an  hour  at  springs,  and  1  knot  at  neaps.  Below  the  surface  its  velocity  is  much  greater. 
The  tides  and  tidal  currents  are  greatly  influenced  by  the  winds. 


ST.  MATTHEW  AND  ADJOINING  ISLANDS. 

These  are  rocky,  iininhabited  islands,  whose  shores  are  little  known  and  are  poorly 
charted.  During  the  season  of  navigation  fogs  are  very  prevalent  in  their  vicinity  and 
vessels  .should  keep  away  from  them.  From  what  is  known  of  them,  anchorage  may  be 
made  with  an  offshore  wind  on  nearly  all  sides,  though  the  shore  should  be  approached  with 
great  caution. 

Pinnacle  Island  is  a  remarkable  narrow  rock,  about  1  mile  long,  200  yards  wide,  and 

900  feet  high,  which  rises  so  abruptly  from  the  water  that  there  is  scarcely  a  place  for  a 

boat  to  land.     Tliere  are  numerous  small  rocks  near  the  .shore  of  the  island,  and  it  should  be 

avoided. 

ST.  MATTHEW  ISLAND. 

Cape  Upright  is  high  and  vertical,  and  the  land  in  its  immediate  vicinity  is  mountain- 
ous; off'  the  cape  is  a  detached  rock  about  25  feet  high.  Westward  of  the  high  land 
of  the  cape  there  is  a  low  neck,  apparently  of  sand,  and  the  cajie  might  easily  be  mistaken 
for  a  detached  island. 

Glory  of  Russia  Cape  is  also  high  and  mountainous,  and  the  land  between  it  and 
Cape  Upright  is  a  succession  of  hills  and  low  valleys,  that  extend  across  the  island  from 
north  to  south. 

There  are  numerous  detached  rocks  along  all  the  shore  of  this  island,  which  should  not 
be  approached  too  closely. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  fresh  water  on  the  island  in  streams  and  fresh-water  lakes. 

Tliere  is  a  good  anchorage  on  tlie  north  side  of  the  island  in  a  bight  G^  miles  to  the 
westward  of  Cape  Ui)right,  with  Sugarloaf  Peak  bearing  SS'W.,  and  westward  of  some 
outlying  rocks  which  show  well  out  of  water  and  should  not  be  approached  closely.  This 
anchorage  is  jjrotccted  from  southerly  winds  b(>(wecn  southrast  and  soutliwest.     Landing 

17789 — 0 


84  BULLETIlsr    NO.  40 — SECOND    EOITION. 

is  difficult  with  any  swell  at  all,  as  the  beach  is  of  stones  and  rather  steep.  With  northerly 
winds  anchorage  can  be  had  on  the  south  side  of  the  island. 

IL\.L,Ij  IST.,AXD  is  high  and  rugged  on  its  northeast,  north,  and  west  sides,  and  slopes 
to  the  southeast  point,  where  it  is  low.  There  is  a  large  detached  rock  off  North  Cape,  and  a 
number  of  detached  rocks  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  There  is  anchorage  in  10  fathoms 
on  the  east  side  of  the  island  in  the  bight  where  ruins  are  indicated  on  Chart  No.  8901. 

Sarychef  Strait. — The  tidal  currents  and  rips  are  strong,  and  the  rocks  on  either  side 
give  it  a  bad  appearance.     It  is  said  to  be  clear  in  mid-channel. 

Tides.— See  tide  table,  pages  10-11. 

Tidal  Currents. — The  flood  current  sets  to  the  eastward,  and  -the  ebb  to  the  westward, 
at  the  rate  of  1  to  2i-  knots. 

NUNIVAK  ISLAND. 

This  island  is  little  known,  poorly  charted,  and  rarely  approached  by  deep-draft  vessels. 
For  a  distance  of  10  miles  about  the  island,  especially  on  its  east  and  north  sides,  the  bottom 
is  reported  very  uneven,  consisting  of  ridges  with  deeper  water  between.  The  island  should 
therefore  be  approached  with  caution.  From  the  westward  it  presents  a  level  shore,  not 
high,  terminating  seaward  in  reddish  bluffs.  Near  the  center  there  are  some  mountains  of 
moderate  height  that  rise  with  a  gentle  slope.  Except  some  hills,  the  eastern  end  of  the 
island  is  low.  In  clear  weather  the  Island  can  generally  be  made  out  at  a  distance  of  30 
miles  from  any  direction. 

Cape  Mohican,  tlie  western  point,  is  a  moderately  high,  steep  cape  with  reddish  bluffs. 

Cape  Mendenhall,  the  southern  point,  is  about  300  feet  high,  with  a  steep  bluff  on  its 
east  side,  which  extends  lialfway  to  the  bottom  of  the  bight  between  this  cupe  and  Cape 
Corwin. 

Cape  CorAvin,  the  eastern  point,  is  low,  with  a  rocky  shore  north  of  it. 

Cape  Etolin,  the  northern  point,  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  about  f  mile  long,  curved 
something  like  an  interrogation  point.  There  is  a  ridge  of  low  hills  about  midway  of  this 
outer  strip.  A  small  island  lies  about  2  miles  off  the  end  of  the  cape  with  rocky  ledges 
between  it  and  the  point  of  the  cape. 

In  1899  the  U.  S.  S.  Corwin  cruised  completely  around  Nunivak  Island,  following  the 
shore  and  outlying  islands  at  a  distance  of  about  2  miles,  and  found  a  general  depth  of  from 
7  to  10  fathoms.  The  coast  is  generally  abrujDt  and  rocky,  with  numerous  bights  in  which 
anchorage  was  found  with  3^  to  7  fathoms  of  water. 

AKCIIORAGES. — There  is  an  anchorage  in  an  open  bay  on  the  southwest  side  of  the 
island.  It  is  apparently  clear  of  dangers,  the  water  shoaling  from  15  fathoms  3  miles  to 
6  fathoms  f  mile  offshore,  with  sandy  bottom.  Landing  may  be  effected  in  a  small  stream 
running  from  a  lagoon  to  the  sea,  but  it  is  exposed  and  difficult.  There  are  two  or  three 
huts,  where  some  natives  live,  about  ^  mile  up  the  stream. 

On  the  southeast  side  of  Cape  Etolin  there  is  an  anchorage  in  Etolin  Bay,  which  is  a 
bight  open  to  the  northeast.  This  bay  averages  about  |  mile  wide  and  nearly  f  mile  deep. 
Near  the  southerly  side  and  about  ^  mile  from  the  head  of  the  bight  an  anchorage  in  18 
feet  can  be  found;  farther  out  it  is  deeper  but  more  exposed  to  the  effects  of  the  strong  tidal 
currents  and  rips  of  Etolin  Strait.  The  holding  ground  is  gravel  and  only  moderately 
good.     There  is  a  small  native  winter  village  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the  bay. 

The  three  following  anchorages  are  from  an  oral  description  by  Capt.  J.  L.  Fisher,  who 
anchored  with  a  stern-wheel  steamboat  in  each  of  them  in  July,  1898 : 

The  first  is  in  the  bight  between  Cape  Mendenhall  and  Cape  Corwin,  close  inshore,  in  3 
fathoms,  with  sand  and  gravel  bottom.     Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  at  this  anchorage. 

The  second  is  in  the  cove  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Cor-win ;  it  is  very  rocky  and  a 
poor  anchorage.     Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  here;  it  is  discolored  and  of  poor  quality. 

The  third  is  on  the  east  side  of,  and  about  12  miles  south  of,  the  north  end  of  the  island. 
It  is  in  a  cove  open  to  the  eastward,  but  deep  enough  to  afford  shelter  from  northerly  and 


CO 
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BERING    SEA    AND    AlKTIC    (H'EAN.  35 

southerly  winds.  Captain  Fisher  consi<lers  this  the  best  anchorage  on  the  east  side  of  the 
island.     Fre.sh  water  can  be  obtained  at  this  place. 

DANGERS. — Breakers  are  said  to  exist  G  or  7  miles  from  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island. 

A  shoal  about  10  miles  NE.  from  the  outer  end  of  Cape  Mohican  is  thought  to  cover 
quite  an  area. 

Th«  water  shoals  very  gradually  toward  the  westerly  end  of  the  island. 

A  dangerous  rocky  si^it  makes  off  to  the  westward  for  probably  more  than  H  miles  fi'om 
Cape  Etolin. 

Father  Barnum  states  that  the  tidal  currents  in  Etolin  Strait  are  so  strong  that  the 
middle  portion  does  not  freeze  over  in  winter. 

ST.  LAWRENCE  ISLAND. 

The  eastern  end  of  this  island  is  usually  made  by  vessels  bound  into  Norton  Sound,  and 
in  clear  weather  can  be  seen  from  a  distance  of  30  to  35  miles.  From  Southeast  Cape  a 
ridge  of  mountains  extend  in  a  northerly  direction  across  the  island,  and  another  ridge 
extends  in  a  northerly  direction  from  East  Cape  to  Northeast  Cajse.  Between  these  two 
ridges  a  deep  bight  makes  in  from  the  southward  and  at  its  head  very  low  land  extends  to  the 
northward  across  the  island.  The  shore  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  is  generally  a  low  sand 
beach  with  outlying  rocks;  the  mountain  ridges  begin  ^  to  3  miles  back  from  the  beach. 

Punuk  Islands,  lying  about  5  miles  ESE.  from  East  Cape,  consist  of  a  group  of  three 
small  islands  extending  2^  miles  in  a  general  northeast  and  southwest  direction.  The  north- 
ernmost and  largest  island  has  two  very  marked  rocky  hummocks,  the  higher  having  an 
elevation  of  100  to  150  feet;  on  the  southwestern  end  of  the  island  are  the  remains  of  a  native 
village.  The  southernmost  island  is  an  irregular  mass  of  rocks,  the  highest  point  about  75 
feet  above  water.  Between  these  islands  is  a  low,  sandy  islet,  which  is  separated  from  the 
other  two  by  narrow  channels  completely  obstructed  by  rocky  ledges  over  which  the  sea 
breaks.  The  shores  of  all  the  islands  are  foul,  and  a  ledge  extends  southward  from  the 
southernmost  island  for  a  distance  of  several  miles.  Vessels  should  approach  these  islar.rs 
with  caution. 

A  heavy  break  was  observed  in  the  channel  between  Punuk  Islands  and  East  Cape,  and 
vessels  should  not  attempt  to  pass  through.  From  the  eastward  the  islands  can  be  approached 
as  close  as  3  miles. 

Southeast  Cape  is  about  5  miles  across  on  its  southern  face;  the  eastern  point  of  the 
cape  slopes  gradixally  to  the  water  for  a  distance  of  i  mile  from  the  high  land,  and  a  reef 
extends  about  i  mile  SE.  from  the  point.  The  western  point  is  lower  and  slopes  moi'e 
gradually  to  the  water  -for  a  distance  of  3  miles  from  the  high  land,  and  a  reef  makes  off 
from  the  point  in  a  southerly  direction  for  a  distance  of  3  to  3  miles.  The  bight  between 
these  points  is  very  foul  and  should  be  avoided. 

Cape  Krallegak,  aboiit  5  miles  northward  of  Southeast  Cape,  is  a  long  sand  spit 
strewn  with  rocks,  extending  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  the  high  land  of  the  coast, 
and  forms  what  is  in  appearance  a  good  anchorage  in  southerly  winds.  There  are  breakers 
about  f  mile  NNW.  from  the  end  of  the  cape,  and  there  may  be  others  inside ;  a  reef  extends 
to  the  southward  from  the  south  side  of  the  sand  spit  for  a  distance  of  about  1  mile.  The 
remains  of  a  native  village  oil  the  sand  spit  servo  to  identify  the  locality. 

The  deep  bight  to  the  westward  of  East  Cape  is  little  known ;  vessels  have  amdiored  well 
up  toward  the  head  of  this  bight.  Vessels  entering  should  give  the  points  a  good  berth  and 
exercise  caution. 

Northeast  Cape  is  high,  probably  800  to  1,000  feet,  comparatively  flat  on  top,  and 
can  be  seen  on  a  clear  day  a  distance  of  35  miles  or  more.  The  ])oint  of  the  cape  is  a  low 
sand  spit,  extending  about  2  miles  from  the  high  land,  with  two  humniocks  about  midway 
between  the  high  land  and  the  shore.  Although  the  l)ottom  is  irregular  off  the  point  of  the 
cape,  no  break  was  noticed  while  passing  it  in  rough  weather.     The  north  shore  of  St. 


36  BULLETIN   NO.   40 — SEf'ONT)   EDITION. 

Lawrence  Island,  for  a  distance  of  10  miles  westward  of  Northeast  Cape,  is  a  low  sand 
beach  and  grassy  plain.  Anchorage  with  shelter  from  southerly  or  soiitheasterly  winds 
can  be  had  along  this  slioi-e  and  about  2  miles  from  the  beach  in  8  to  9  fathoms  of  water; 
the  holding  ground  is  not  good,  the  bottom  being  gravel. 

Cape  Chibukak,  probably  600  feet  high,  is  a  steep,  black  bluff,  flat  on  top.  There  is 
a  wide  sand  beach  west  of  the  bluff,  on  which  is  a  native  village.  This  native  village,  and 
the  one  on  Southwest  Cape,  are  the  only  inhabited  parts  of  the  island. 

The  water  is  deep  close-to,  and  anchorage  may  be  made  on  either  side  of  the  point  of 
the  sand  beach  off  the  native  village,  i  mile  from  the  shore,  in  about  7  fathoms  of  water, 
hard  bottom. 

The  western  end  of  the  island,  south  of  Cape  Chibukak,  is  rolling  land.  From  West  Cape 
around  to  the  bay  east  of  Soiithwest  Cape  the  land  is  mountainous,  and  abrupt  close  to  the 
coast,  being  highest  at  Southwest  Cape.  Between  the  high  laud  east  of  Southwest  Cape 
and  Cape  Chitnak  the  land  is  low.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  generally  high  and  rolling. 
There  are  some  sunken  rocks  in  the  bight  westward  of  Southeast  Cape,  and  also  some 
detached  rocks  showing  off  the  north  shore  near  capes  Kukuliak  and  Siepermo.  It  is 
probable  that  with  care  an  anchorage  may  be  found  almost  anywhere  around  the  island, 
but  the  shores  must  be  approached  with  caution. 

CAPE  VAisrcorvrEE  to  scAM:MO>r  bay. 

Cape  Vancouver  is  a  bold  promontory,  possibly  1,000  feet  high.  The  bank  from  the 
Kuskokwini  River  is  thought  to  extend  to  Cape  Vancouver,  so  that  on  the  south  side  of  the 
cape  the  water  is  shoal.  Immediately  off  the  end  of  the  cape  there  is  deep  water,  which 
extends  about  5  miles  along  the  north  side  to  the  bight  on  which  the  native  village  of 
Tununak  is  situated.  This  bight  is  a  series  of  mud  flats,  mostly  bare  at  low  water.  The 
Bear  anchored  in  4i  fathoms  about  1  mile  off  the  south  point  of  the  bight.  From  observa- 
tion on  that  vessel  in  1897,  shoal  water  extends  off  the  mouth  of  that  bight  northwest- 
ward, and  Hazen  Bay  is  supposed  to  be  shallow. 

Cape  Romanzof  *  is  a  bold,  and  prominent  headland  with  cliffs  rising  abruptly  from 
the  water  over  1,200  feet  along  its  western  face;  at  the  sharp  extremity  of  the  cape  there  are 
remarkable  perpendicular  shafts  of  rock  on  the  side  of  the  cliff.  The  cape  is  the  western 
termination  of  the  Askinuk  Mountains,  the  highe.st  of  which  (3,363  feet)  is  about  3  miles 
from  the  cape  and  can  be  seen  a  considerable  distance  at  sea. 

Northeastward  of  the  cape,  ii  miles,  is  the  southern  end  of  the  Sand  Islands. 
These  two  islands  extend  in  a  general  north  and  south  direction  about  13  miles,  including 
the  interval  between  them,  and  at  a  distance  from  the  coast  diminishing  from  7  to  o  miles. 
The  north  island  is  mostly  covered  at  high  tide. 

The  coast  trends  in  an  easterly  direction  from  Cape  Romanzof  15  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
Khun  River,  and  thronghoixt  most  of  this  distance  is  bordered  by  abrupt  cliffs  and  hills 
gradually  diminishing  in  elevation. 

Scammon  Bay  lies  between  this  shore  and  South  Sand  Island.  In  general  it  is  very 
shoal  with  numerous  bars  showing  bare  at  low  tide.  There  are  two  small  coves  along  its 
south  side,  respectively  1  and  9  miles  from  Cape  Rmnanzof,  but  both  are  quite  shoal. 
There  is  a  limited  area  of  water  with  depth  of  5  fathoms  just  south  and  east  of  the  south- 
ern end  of  Sand  Island,  and  there  is  a  channel  of  the  same  depth  leading  into  this  and 
passing  about  2^  miles  north  of  Cape  Romanzof.  A  narrow  channel  with  a  minimum 
depth  of  about  2  fathoms  continues  through  Scammon  Bay  and  into  the  Khun  River. 
There  is  about  4  fathoms  off  Cape  Romanzof  but  the  water  shoals  quickly  to  the  northeast- 
ward, so  there  is  little  protection  except  for  very  light-di'aft  boats.  There  is  a  large  shoal 
area  with  breakers  about  halfway  between  the  cape  and  the  Sand  Island,  and  another  shoal 
with  less  than  2  fathoms  lies  NNW.  (true)  from  the  cape  distant  2i  miles.  Along  the 
high  land  forming  the  south  shore  of  Scammon  Bay  the  water  is  1  fathom  or  less  in  depth 
throughout  its  length,  excepting  just  inside  of  Cape  Romanzof. 

*  On  some  recant  charts  Cape  or  Point  Dyer,  an  unimportant  bluff  on  the  south  shore  of  Scammon  Bay,  has  been  confused  with  Cape  Romanzof. 


BEUIX(;    SKA    AM)    AKCTIC    OCKAX.  37 

North  frum  the  mouth  of  the  Khiiu  River  the  coast  is  low  and  marshy  to  the  Yukon 
River  moutlis.  It  is  reported  to  be  extremely  shoal  between  the  northern  Sand  Island  and 
this  shore. 

The  bay  lying  south  of  Cape  Romanzof  has  not  been  explored,  but  a  number  of  bars, 
bare  at  low  tide,  were  seen  extending  across  its  entrance  between  the  cape  and  the  north 
end  of  an  island ;  near  the  latter  there  appeared  to  be  a  channel.  The  coast  between  Cape 
Romanzof  and  Nelson  Island  is  low,  and  it  is  reported  that  the  adjacent  waters  are  shoal. 

The  Yukon  Flats  extend  from  Scammon  Bay  to  Stuart  Island  and  should  not  be 
approa.ched  by  deep-draft  vessels  nearer  than  in  about  8  fathoms  of  water.     (See  page  40.) 


NORTON  SOUND. 

Norton  Sound  is  at  present  the  most  important  arm  of  Bering  Sea.  All  the  supplies 
for  the  Yukon  River  by  way  of  St.  Michael  pass  through  it.  The  north  shore  is  also  impor- 
tant because  of  the  mining  operations  now  conducted  there.  The  south  side  of  the  entrance 
to  the  sound  is  occupied  by  the  extensive  Yukon  Flats,  and  should  be  avoided  by  deejD-draf  t 
vessels.  The  rest  of  the  sound  generally  has  soundings  of  from  8  to  13  fathoms,  the  greater 
depths  being  near  the  north  .side.  Off  Cape  Nome  and  Cape  Darby  there  are  sjiots  having 
depths  of  14  to  15  fathoms.  The  bottom  of  the  sound  is  very  even,  the  depths  decreasing 
to  the  shore  with  marked  regularitj%  and  the  lead  will  indicate  the  approach  to  dangers, 
and  should  be  kept  going  constantly.     There  is  driftwood  on  all  the  shoi-es  of  the  sound. 

Fog. — The  remarks  on  fog,  page  9,  apply  also  to  the  region  west  of  Cape  Nome,  but 
not  to  Norton  Sound  east  of  it.  On  entering  the  sound  with  thick  weather  in  Bering  Sea, 
the  fog  will  almost  always  thin  out  and  gradually  clear  as  the  vessel  proceeds  up  the  sound. 
At  St.  Michael  fogs  are  rare. 

Mirage. — In  the  vicinity  of  St.  Michael  and  Stuart  islands  and  the  coast  to  the  south- 
ward mirage  often  distorts  the  apj)earance  of  the  land,  small  objects  being  sometimes  greatly 
magnified. 

Stuart  Island  lies  northwest  of  St.  Michael  Island,  from  which  it  is  sejiarated  by 
Stephens  Pass,  about  |  mile  wide  in  its  narrowest  part.  Stuart  Mountain,  480  feet  high, 
east  of  the  center  is  the  highest  point.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  low  and  rolling,  with  some 
small  scattered  peaks.  The  shore  of  the  island  is  very  irregular.  From  North  Point  to 
Observation  Point  and  around  through  Stephens  Pass  is  a  line  of  conspicuous  bluffs  about 
170  feet  high;  the  rest  of  the  coast  is  much  lower.  From  Observation  Point  to  the  west 
point  of  the  island  the  shores  are  bold  and  free  from  outlying  dangers;  :i  fathoms  can  l)e 
carried  close  in  to  the  beach.  Off  tlie  west  point,  some  detached  rocks  extend  for  about  300 
yards,  but  the  reef  formerly  shown  at  this  point  does  not  exist.  On  the  east  face  of  the 
island  well  tnw^ird  the  south  point  a  reef  and  shoal  water  make  out  for  about  il  miles. 

St.  Michael  Island  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow,  crooked,  tidal  slough, 
called  St.  Michael  Canal.  The  island  is  generally  low,  and  has  two  conspicuous  elevations: 
St.  Micliael  Mountain,  near  the  center,  473  feet  high;  and  Stephens  Mountain,  a  sliarp, 
conical  hill  overlooking  Stephens  Pass.  A  reef  extends  some  distance  oif  Rock  Point,  which 
should  be  given  a  berth  of  3  miles. 

Whale  Island,  lying  close  off  the  east  end  of  St.  Michael  Island,  is  about  .V  mile  long 
east  and  west,  loufuet  high,  and  on  approaching  the  harbor  its  east  end  is  seen  as  a  vertical 
bluff.  The  passage  between  this  and  St.  Michael  Island  is  completely  blocked  by  rocks, 
which  are  bare  at  low  water.  Eastward  and  northward  of  the  island  the  water  deepens 
rapidly. 

Beulah  Island,  about  }  mile  northwest  from  Whale  Island,  is  about  50  feet  high.  It 
is  small  and  rounded  lik(^  a  haystack.  It  has  bold  wat-er  off  its  northeast  side.  Between 
this  and  Whale  Island  the  water  is  shoal. 


38  BULLETIN    yo.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

Egg  Island,  about  ]0  miles  northeast  from  St.  Michael,  is  a  flat,  rocky  island  about  i 
mile  in  diameter,  and  probably  not  more  than  50  feet  high.  It  is  clear  of  dangers  away 
from  shore,  and  anchorage  can  be  had  all  around  it.  With  northerly  winds,  when  too 
rough  to  lie  in  St.  Michael  Bay,  a  good  lee  can  be  found  under  Egg  Island. 

ST.   IVnCUAEL,. 

St.  Michael,  on  the  east  point  of  St.  Michael  Island,  is  the  point  of  transfer  from  deep- 
water  vessels  to  the  Yukon  River  steamboats  of  the  trading  and  transportation  companies 
doing  business  on  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries.  This  trade  during  the  open  season  of 
about  four  months  is  very  extensive,  and  of  late  years  has  been  greatly  increasing.  Some 
of  the  companies  have  small  wharves  for  the  light-draft  river  vessels,  and  extensive  ware- 
houses on  St.  Michael  Island  and  opposite  on  the  mainland.  Seagoing  vessels  discharge 
their  cargoes  by  lighters. 

Supplies. — The  trading  companies  maintain  stores,  which  carry  extensive  general  sup- 
plies. Hotels  are  maintained  by  three  or  four  of  the  companies.  Fresh  water  is  very 
difficult  to  obtain. 

Repairs. — The  facilities  for  repairs  above  water  and  to  woodwork  are  good.  Several 
blacksmith  shops  and  small  machine  shops  can  handle  ironwork  and  minor  repairs  to 
machinery. 

Anchorage. — There  is  no  harbor  for  seagoing  vessels,  the  anchorage  being  a  roadstead 
open  from  northwest  through  north  to  east,  and  is  unsafe  with  heavy  northerly  weather. 
The  bay  is  extensive,  and  on  account  of  the  very  gradiial  shoaling  vessels  are  compelled  to 
anchor  in  from  3  to  4^  fathoms  at  a  distance  of  1  to  3  miles  from  the  nearest  landings.  In 
heavy  northerly  weather  vessels  have  to  shift  anchorage  to  deeper  water,  obtain  shelter 
under  Egg  Island,  or  go  to  sea. 

Light-draft  vessels  and  river  steamers  can  iind  shelter  from  northerly  and  westerly  storms 
by  anchoring  close  in  under  the  east  side  of  the  island,  in  from  3  to  8  feet.  The  shores  of 
St.  Michael  Bay  are  strewn  with  loose  rocks,  which  are  often  frozen  in  the  ice  in  winter  and 
dropped  as  it  goes  out  in  the  spring.  Light-draft  vessels,  when  anchoring  in  shoal  water, 
should  be  careful  not  to  anchor  over  any  of  these  loose,  scattered  rocks. 

Tides. — See  tide  table,  pages  12-13. 

Ice. — See  table,  page  14. 

The  coast  from  St.  Michael  Bay  to  Tolstoi  Point  is  generally  low,  and  the  beach  is  rock- 
strewn;  but  as  far  as  known  it  is  free  from  outlying  dangers,  and  depths  of  3  to  4  fathoms 
can  be  carried  quite  close  to  the  land. 

Tolstoi  Point  and  its  vicinity  are  high  and  rocky,  and  from  there  to  Unalaklik  River 
the  shore  is  low.  The  soundings  decrease  regularly  to  the  shore,  except  off  the  mouth  of 
Unalaklik  River,  where  shoal  water  extends  probably  1  mile.  Just  north  of  Unalaklik  the 
land  can  be  approached  to  within  \  mile  with  a  depth  of  3  fathoms.  The  head  of  the  bight 
to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Denbigh  is  said  to  be  somewhat  shoaler  than  the  shores  to  the 
southward. 

Besboro  Island,  about  GOO  feet  high,  is  steep-sided  and  rounded.  It  is  very  prominent, 
and  ou  a  clear  day  can  be  seen  from  St.  Michael  Bay.     Its  shores  are  not  known. 

Cape  Denbigh  is  a  moderately  high,  rounded  hill,  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  low, 
narrow  neck. 

Norton  Bay  has  not  been  recently  navigated  by  vessels,  and  the  head  of  the  bay  is  said 
to  be  too  shoal  except  for  vessels  of  very  light  draft.  In  this  region  the  lead  is  the  only 
guide  that  can  be  dejjended  upon. 

Cape  Darby  is  a  high,  rounded  mountain,  which  terminates  at  the  water  in  steep, 
rocky  bluffs.     Off  the  cape  the  water  is  bold. 

Rocky  Point  is  somewhat  similar  in  appearance  to  Cape  Darby,  but  not  so  high.  It 
was  so  named  because  of  a  flat,  bare  rock  close  to  it.  The  water  off  this  cape,  though  not 
so  deejj  as  off  Cape  Darby,  is  good  close-to. 


BERING    SEA    AND    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  39 

Golofnin  Bay,  tlie  entrance  to  which  lies  between  Cape  Darby  and  Rocky  Point,  with 
a  width  of  lu  miles,  extends  in  a  general  northerly  direction  for  1'2  miles  to  the  entrance  to 
Golofnin  Sound.  The  east  shore  is  high  and  bold,  with  occasional  sand  and  gravel  beaches. 
Carolyn  Island,  low  and  rocky,  lies  i  mile  off  the  east  shore,  about  8  miles  north  of  Cape 
Darljy.  The  west  shore  for  about  4  miles  north  of  Rocky  Point  is  high  and  bold,  but 
beyond  this  is  a  low  sand  beach,  with  a  prominent  point  about  5  miles  north  of  Rocky 
Point.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  on  the  west  side  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound  lies  between 
a  sand  spit  projecting  from  the  eastern  shore  and  a  low  sand  island  connected  at  low  water 
with  the  west  shore  and  extending  northward. 

Deep  water  can  be  carried  close  under  Cape  Darby  and  Rocky  Point.  To  the  eastward 
of  Rocky  Point  is  an  extensive  middle  ground  on  which  the  least  depth  found  was  3f  fath- 
oms; on  its  east  edge  it  rises  abruptly  from  6  and  7  fathoms.  With  the  exception  of  this 
middle-ground,  the  bay  is  free  from  dangers  south  of  the  low  jioint  on  the  west  shore,  the 
deepest  water  being  on  the  east  side,  and  ranging  from  11  fathoms  close  uuder  Cape  Darby 
to  -1  fathoms,  |  mile  northwest  of  Carolyn  Island.  In  the  south  part  of  the  bay  the  high- 
land may  be  approached  closely,  but  off  the  lowland  the  3-fathom  curve  is  in  jjlaces  nearly 
1  mile  offshore. 

In  the  north  part  of  the  bay  an  extensive  shoal,  with  but  8  to  9  feet,  makes  out  in  a 
northeast  direction  from  the  west  shore  to  within  |  of  a  mile  of  the  east  shore,  its  extremity 
lying  about  2  miles  ENE.  from  the  low  sand  island  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  to 
Golofnin  Sound.  The  channel  leading  to  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound  lies  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  baj-,  passing  around  the  east  end  of  the  shiial  and  following  the  shore  at  a  dis- 
tance of  i  to  i  mile,  with  an  average  width  of  800  yards.  The  slioalest  water  in  the  chan- 
nel is  12  feet  at  low  water,  but  15  feet  has  been  taken  in  at  high  water.  The  rise  and  fall 
of  the  tide  (diurnal)  is  about  3  feet,  but  this  is  influenced  by  the  prevailing  winds,  which 
have  a  tendency  to  bank  up  the  water  in  heavy  southerly  weather,  and  to  lower  it  with 
northerly  and  northeasterly  winds. 

Anchorage.- -Close  under  and  immediately  to  the  westward  of  the  southern  sand  spit, 
anchorage  may  be  had  in  G  to  7  fathoms,  with  protection  from  all  winds.  For  vessels  whose 
draft  prevents  the  use  of  this  anchorage,  the  best  is  off"  the  point  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay 
in  about  4  fathoms.  This  is  unsafe  in  southerly  weather,  but  is  the  most  convenient  for 
communicating  with  the  head  of  the  bay. 

Golofnin  Sound  has  not  been  examined,  but  is  believed  to  be  shoal. 

Rocky  Point  to  Cape  Nome. — For  about  25  miles  west  of  Rocky  Point  the  land  is  high 
and  bold,  in  manj"  places  rising  abruptly  from  the  shore.  Beyond  this  to  Cape  Nome  the 
land  at  the  shore  is  low  with  high  land  farther  back.  Immediately  behind  this  lowland  is 
a  large  shoal  lagoon  with  two  small  entrances,  the  west  one  being  known  as  Port  Safety. 
Between  Rocky  Point  and  Cape  Nome  the  water  is  deep,  the  bottom  regular,  and,  as  far  as 
known,  there  are  no  dangers. 

Port  Safety  is  a  small  anchorage  for  vessels  of  less  than  7  feet  draft;  it  is  about  8  miles 
to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Nome.  The  channel  is  very  narrow  and  has  a  depth  of  7  feet. 
Small  vessels  can  anchor  in  the  narrow  sloughs  which  lead  between  the  flats  inside  the  entrance. 

GENERAIi   DIRECTIONS   FROM   irNIlMAK   PASS   AXD   UNALASKA   BAY  TO   ST. 

MICHAEL. 

For  vessels  of  any  draft. — Vessels  that  do  not  touch  at  Unalaska  Bay  ports  go 
through  Unimak  Pass. 

From  Unalaska  Bay  or  Unimak  Pass  the  course  is  shaped  to  sight  the  v/est  end  of 
Nunivak  Island  and  pass  it  at  a  distance  of  from  15  to  25  miles.  On  this  coui'se  little  can 
be  said  of  the  currents  that  may  be  experienced,  except  tlnit  with  a  strong  wind  in  any 
direction  a  current  is  likely  to  set  with  it.  A  slight  set  northward  will  bo  experienced 
at  times.  Thick  weather  is  the  rule  on  this  course,  and  care  should  be  observed  when 
in  the  vicinity  of  Nunivak  Island. 


40  BULLETIN    NO.    10 SECOND    EDITION. 

When  due  west  of  Nunivak  Island  the  coui-se  is  shaped  for  a  position  35  miles  east  of 
St.  Lawrence  Island.  The  east  end  of  the  island  is  high,  and  will  be  easily  made  out  at  this 
distance  in  clear  weather.  On  this  course  thick  weather  is  the  rule,  and  the  set  of  the  cur- 
rent is  northward  and  westward,  especially  as  St.  Lawrence  Island  is  approached. 

"  When  due  east  of  the  east  end  of  St.  Lawrence  Island,  change  course  and  head  for  Cape 
Nome.  On  this  course  there  is  usually  qi;ite  a  current  coming  from  the  Yukon  delta  and 
running  toward  Bering  Strait.  During  the  freshet  season  a  current  of  the  roily  river  water 
carrying  driftwood  will  be  crossed.  In  the  fresher  portion  of  this  ocean  stream  the  water 
was  found  to  be  one-fifth  as  salt  as  sea  water."  On  this  course  thick  weather  is  not  so  prev- 
alent as  farther  soaith. 

When  Cape  Nome  is  distinctly  made  out  and  the  position  fixed,  which  will  not  be,  even 
in  clear  Aveather,  until  the  vessel  has  about  reached  the  G4th  parallel,  a  .sti-aight  course  can 
be  shaped  for  North  Point  of  Stuart  Island.  But  if  the  weather  is  thick  on  nearing  Cape 
Nome,  vessels  should  stand  on  until  sure  of  being  as  far  north  as  the  64th  parallel,  and  then 
stand  into  the  soiind  on  this  parallel  until  Cape  Darby  and  Rocky  Point  are  made  out,  when 
the  course  can  be  shaped  for  North  Point  of  Stuart  Island  as  before,  steering  to  pass  it  at  a 
distance  of  about  3  miles.  On  the  course  for  Stuart  Island  in  clear  weather  the  mountains 
on  the  mainland,  soiitheast  from  St.  Michael,  are  first  sighted,  though  the  mountain  on 
Stuart  Island  and  St.  Michael  Mountain  can  usually  be  seen  at  a  long  distance.  In  this  part 
of  the  sound  thick  weather  is  not  so  frequent  as  in  Bering  Sea. 

When  North  Point  of  Stuart  Island  is  abeam,  distant  about  3  miles,  change  course  to 
E.  by  S.,  giving  Rock  Point  a  berth  of  about  4  miles.  When  Whale  Island  is  abeam  haul 
to  the  southward  for  St.  Michael  Bay,  and  anchor  according  to  depth.  On  the  course  from 
Stuart  Island  when  off  Rock  Point,  the  houses,  and  at  night  the  lights,  of  St.  Michael  show 
across  the  land  to  the  westward  of  Whale  Island,  and  strangers  should  be  careful  not  to 
enter  the  bight  between  it  and  Rock  Point  by  mistake. 

Dangers. — If  no  observations  can  be  obtained  on  account  of  thick  weather,-  the  lead 
must  be  depended  upon  and  used  constantly,  as  the  currents  are  liable  to  set  a  vessel  off  her 
course. 

Yukon  Flats. — From  the  latest  surveys,  the  lowland  of  the  Yukon  delta  has  been 
found  to  extend  nearly  15  miles  farther  westward  than  had  heretofore  been  supposed,  but 
the  shoals  do  not  extend  any  farther  westward  than  shown  on  present  charts,  except  at 
their  northwest  extremity. 

From  a  point  5  miles  west  of  Cape  Romanzof,  the  5-fathom  curve  extends  due  north 
about  100  miles  to  longitude  105°  05'  W.,  latitude  63°  25'  N.,  when  it  turns  eastward,  and  runs 
about  east-northeast  for  65  miles  to  the  west  point  of  Stuart  Island.  On  the  west  edge  of 
the  iiats  the  3-fathom  curve  is  seldom  more  than  a  mile  inside  the  5-fathom  curve,  but  on 
the  north  edge  this  distance  increases  eastward,  becoming  greatest  in  the  vicinity  of  Point 
Romanof ,  with  a  long  pocket  under  the  south  shore  of  Stuart  Island.  When  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  flats  vessels  should  not  shoal  the  water  to  less  than  8  fathoms. 

From  the  information  obtained  by  recent  surveys  the  following  sailing  directions  are 
believed  to  be  safe  and  practicable,  but  they  are  not  intended  to  supersede  the  sailing 
directions  given  elsewhere  until  the  results  of  the  surveys  have  been  charted. 

Vessels  clearing  North  Point,  Stuart  Island,  by  3  miles,  may  steer  "WSW.,  and  having 
made  good  the  course  for  a  distance  of  90  miles,  being  in  longitude  165°  40' W.  and  latitude 
63°  40'  N.,  may  shape  a  course  to  the  southward  to  clear  Nunivak  Island  by  a  distance  of  not 
less  than  15  miles. 

Vessels  bound  to  Cape  Nome  maj'  shape  a  direct  course  N.  f  W.  when  not  less  than  15 
miles  west  of  Nunivak  Island,  or  S.  f  E.  when  bound  soiith  from  Cape  Nome.  These 
courses  clear  all  dangers  and  will  pass  about  28  miles  west  of  Cape  Romanzof  (on  some 
charts  Point  or  Cape  Dyer),  which  will  bo  plainly  visible  at  this  distance  in  clear  weather. 

Attention  is  again  called  to  the  caution  that  on  these  courses  the  water  should  not  be 
shoaled  to  less  than  8  fathoms  in  the  viciuitv  of  the  flats. 


BERING    SEA    AND    AltCriC    OCEAN.  41 

From  the  survey  of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Steamer  PaUerson 
in  ISOO,  tlu^  shoal  spots  northward  of  the  flats  shown  on  tlie  charts  coxihl  not  be  found, 
and  ])rol)ably  do  not  exist.  The  vessels  reporting  them  have  proluihly  been  on  the  north 
edge  of  the  flats. 

Rock  Point. — A  shoal  makes  off  about  2  miles  from  Rock  Point,  tlie  north  point  of  St. 
Micliacl  Island.  From  the  outer  extremity  of  the  shoal  the  east  end  of  Whale  Island  bears 
about  SE.  by  S. 

GEXEKAL,  DIRECTIONS   FROM  ISANOTSKI  STRAIT  TO   ST.   3IICIIAEI.. 

The  following  directions  are  intended  to  apply  only  to  small  vessels  and  river  steamboats : 

After  passing  out  of  Isanotski  Strait  to  the  northeastward,  clear  of  the  outlying  breakers 
(see  Isanotski  Strait,  page  14),  the  course  is  shaped  for  the  east  side  of  Amak  Island. 
Shelter  can  be  found  on  the  south,  southeast,  and  east  sides  of  the  island.  Some  of  the  Moran 
fleet  found  shelter  in  1898  on  the  east  side  in  about  6  fathoms.  Capt.  J.  L.  Fisher  states 
that  he  crossed  pretty  close  inshore  over  the  indicated  shoal  off  the  southeast  end,  with  a 
least  depth  of  7  fathoms.  He  also  states  that  the  outlying  rocks  and  reefs  off  the  north  end 
of  the  island  appeared  very  nasty  and  dangerous. 

Leaving  Amak  Island,  the  next  course  is  laid  for  Cajie  Newenham.  Shelter  can  be 
obtained,  it  is  believed,  on  either  side,  according  to  the  wind.  On  July  15,  1898,  the  bight 
northeast  from  Cape  Newenham  was  found  jjacked  full  of  ice  by  the  small  steamer  Joe 
Matfheirs. 

From  Cape  Newenham  the  course  is  laid  for  Nunivak  Island.  If  heavy  northerly  or 
northeasterly  winds  ai'e  encountered  before  the  island  is  reached,  shelter  is  sought  in  the 
depth  of  the  bight  on  the  south  side.  Weather  conditions  being  good,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  touch  at  this  island  for  water.  The  anchorage  on  the  east  side,  about  12  miles  south 
from  Cape  Etolin,  is  considered  the  best.     (See  Nunivak  Ifeland,  page  34.) 

Froui  the  northern  end  of  Nunivak  Island,  the  customary  course  is  to  cross  over 
diagonally  to  a  little  north  of  Hazen  Bay,  and  then  coast  along  just  outside  the  shoals,  in 
from  3  to  5  fathoms  of  water,  until  Cape  Romanzof  is  reached.  If  the  weather  is  unpropi- 
tious  or  water  is  required,  an  anchorage  in  Scammon  Bay  is  made  close  inshore  on  the  south 
side,  in  a  bight  where  a  stream  empties. 

After  leaving  Scammon  Bay,  by  giving  the  spit  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  a  good 
berth,  the  remaining  distance  to  St.  Michael  is  made  by  skirting  along  on  the  outer  portion 
of  the  Yukon  Flats,  in  from  2  to  5  fathoms,  where  the  courses  are  exclusively  guided  by  the 
use  of  the  lead.  On  this  crooked  stretch,  after  the  mountains  of  Cape  Romanzof  and  the 
Kusilvak  Mountains  disappear,  no  land  will  be  visible  until  the  high  peaks  on  the  mainland 
south  from  Stuart  Island  are  sighted;  a  little  later  the  summits  of  Stuart  and  St.  Michael 
islands  become  visible.  After  Stuart  and  St.  Michael  islands  become  defined,  the  course  is 
shaped  so  as  to  go  through  the  pass  between  them,  and  then  skirt  arouiul  the  nortk  side  of 
St.  Michael  Island  to  St.  Michael. 

Remarks. — In  the  summer  season,  from  all  that  can  be  learned,  northerly  and  easterly 
winds  prevail  a  largo  portion  of  the  time  between  Cape  Newenham  and  Cape  Romanzof. 

The  tidal  currents  in  Etolin  Strait  are  strong  and  at  times  cause  heavy  tide  rips. 

Fatlun-  Baruiim  states  that  there  are  shoals  parallel  with  the  coast,  behind  which  small 
boats  go  when  coasting  between  Scammon  Bay  and  Nelson  Ishmd.  Ho  is  uncertain  as  to 
their  exact  limits  and  location,  but  they  are  believed  to  extend  from  the  north  entrance  to 
Hazen  Bay  to,  or  nearly  to.  Cape  Romanzof,  with  passages  through  in  many  places. 

COAST  FROM  ST.  »nCIIAEL  TO  THE  APOON  MOUTH  OF  THE  YUKON  RIVER. 

St.  Michael  being  the  end  of  deep-water  navigation,  all  the  Yukon  traffic  beyond  this 
point  has  to  be  conducted  with  vessels  drawing  .5  feet  or  less.  The  larger  class  of  river 
steamljoats  leaving  St.  Michael  Bay  go  around  the  north  side  of  St.  Michael  Island  and 
through  Stephens  Pass,  between  St.  Michael  and  Stuart  islands.     They  give  the  reef  oil' 


42  BULLETIN    NO.  40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

Rock  Point,  on  the  north  side  of  St.  Michael  Island,  a  wide  berth,  and  after  passing  between 
the  islands  a  straight 'coiirse  is  made  sliglitly  to  the  westward  of  Point  Romanof.  "When 
the  summit  of  Point  Romanof  is  abeam,  distant  about  1^  miles,  the  direction  is  chiinged  and 
a  straight  course  is  made  for  the  range  beacons  for  entering  the  Apoon  Pass.  The  most 
dangerous  portion  of  the  passage  is  the  14  miles  around  the  north  end  of  St.  Michael  Island, 
which  is  exposed  to  the  deep-water  swell  from  the  north.  This  can  be  avoided  by  the  small 
craft  by  going  through  St.  Michael  Canal. 

St.  Michael  Canal.— St.  Michael  Island  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow, 
crooked,  tidal  slougli,  which  forks  and  comes  together  again.  The  distance  through  by 
way  of  the  north  fork  is  18  miles,  and  by  the  south  one  20  miles.  The  southern  and  longest 
one  is  the  widest,  and  for  that  reason  is  the  one  generally  used.  There  is  a  sufficient  depth 
of  water  in  the  canal  for  ordinary  river  steamboats,  but  its  northern  entrance,  which  has 
some  scattered  rocks  in  it,  is  too  shoal  to  enter  at  low  tide.  The  southern  entrance  has 
about  3  feet  on  its  bar  at  mean  low  tide.  Thus  far,  on  account  of  its  narrowness  and  sharp 
curves,  it  has  only  been  used  by  the  smaller  class  of  steamboats. 

From  Stephens  Pass  io  the  entrance  to  the  Apoon  Pass  is  43  miles  along  an  open  coast, 
but,  owing  to  the  protection  fi'om  heavy  seas  offered  by  the  flats  that  extend  for  miles 
to  seaward,  this  portion  of  the  distance  is  safe  in  summer  months  for  the  flat-bottomed  river 
steamboats  that  have  to  traverse  it. 

With  the  exception  of  the  promontory  of  Point  Romanof,  the  immediate  coast  line  is 
very  low  and  flat  all  the  way  from  St.  Michael  Island  to  and  including  the  Apoon  entrance. 
The  promontory  of  Point  Romanof,  340  feet  high,  stands  well  out  about  12  miles  west- 
ward from  the  high  hills  of  the  coast  range.  After  clearing  Stephens  Pass  it  appears 
in  clear  weather  like  an  island  in  the  sea.  Coming  north  from  the  Apoon  entrance  after 
passing  Point  Romanof,  Crater,  St.  Michael,  and  Stuart  mountains  appear  above  the 
horizon,  and  afford  excellent  landmarks. 

In  moderate  weather  the  ocean  swell  is  not  felt  between  Stephens  Pass  and  the  Apoon 
entrance;  but  in  heavy  weather  and  westerly  weather,  which  is  more  likely  to  occur  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  season,  there  is  a  choppy  sea  which  is  heavier  off  Point  Romanof  than 
elsewhere.  In  general,  after  rounding  the  north  side  of  St.  Michael  Island,  this  passage 
is  safe  for  river  steam'ers  in  the  summer  season.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  season, 
however,  high  winds  become  more  frequent,  and  the  boats  are  obliged  to  watch  their 
opportunities. 

Anchorages. — River  steamboats  anchor  on  the  flats  or  in  tlie  channel,  wherever 
exigency  demands. 

Good  shelter  can  be  had  in  all  but  southwesterly  weather  in  the  cove  on  the  south  side 
of  Cape  Stephens,  in  from  6  to  9  feet  of  water.  Stebbius,  a  large  Eskimo  settlement,  is 
located  on  this  cove. 

In  the  southern  end  of  St.  Michael  Canal,  in  the  southern  branch  just  above  the 
junction,  there  is  a  good  and  safe  anchorage  in  all  kinds  of  weather.  There  is  only  about 
3  feet  at  mean  low  tide  on  the  outside  bar,  and  it  has  to  be  crossed  at  high  tide. 

About  10  miles  southward  of  Canal  Point  is  the  Pikmiktalik  River.  In  the  mouth  of 
the  right-hand  stream  there  is  an  anchorage  for  medium-sized  steamers.  The  bar  to  this 
stream  has  only  about  2-^  feet  on  it  at  mean  low  tide.  A  shoal  extends  out  from  the  south 
point  at  the  entrance. 

The  mouth  of  the  Pastoliak  River,  about  2  miles  from  the  outer  end  of  the  Apoon 
Pass,  affords  anchorage  for  steamboats  under  medium  size.  The  Apoon  Flats  extend  in 
front  of  the  entrance,  and  it  can  only  be  entered  at  high  tide. 

APOOX  PASS. 

This  is  the  most  northern  outlet  of  the  'Yukon  River,  and  is  about  55  miles,  via 
Stephens  Pass,  from  St.  Michael.  AVith  the  exception  of  two  steamboats  that  entered  the 
Kwiklowak  Pass  during  the  season  of  18'J8,  it  hasbeenusedexclusively  for  more  than  twenty 
years  by  the  steamboats  trading  up  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries. 


BEIUNG    SEA    AKl)    AliCTlC    OCKAX.  43 

The  Apoou  Pass  is  the  extreme  northeastern  limit  of  the  Yukon  Delta.  In  common 
with  the  rest  of  this  region,  the  conntrj-  is  low  and  flat,  it  being  from  1  to  2  feet  above 
high-water  mark.  Down  to  within  about  2  miles  of  its  mouth,  the  banks  are  generally 
covered  with  low  willow  and  alder  bushes,  averaging  8  to  10  feet  in  height.  Near  the 
mouth  the  land  becomes  more  marshy,  and  a  considerable  area  westward  appears  to  be 
entirely  an  open  marsh.  The  open  country  to  the  eastward  is  flat,  and  is  made  up  of 
marsh,  ponds,  and  tundra.  The  only  high  ground  in  the  general  vicinity  is  "Hog  Back," 
a  rounded  ridge  about  300  feet  high  lying  5  miles  east  from  the  entrance.  Some  distance 
back  from  the  coast,  13  to  IS  miles,  is  seen  the  range  of  hills  or  mountains  trending  to  the 
southwestward,  which  extend  in  that  direction  to  where  the  Yukon  makes  its  great  bend  to 
get  around  the  end  of  this  ridge.  On  these  low,  flat  shores  there  are  often  remarkable 
mirage  effects,  tending  greatly  to  magnify  insignificant  objects. 

Bar. — Off  the  mouth  of  Apoon  Pass,  and  for  some  distance  northwestward,  the 
bottom  is  nearly  flat,  having  a  depth  of  about  3  feet  of  water  at  low  tide,  and  with  little 
choice  as  to  a  channel.  All  but  very  light-draft  vessels  must  time  their  departure  from 
St.  Michael  so  as  to  cross  these  flats  at  high  tide,  or  must  wait  for  the  tide.  From  a  x'oint 
about  halfway  between  the  mouths  of  tlie  Pastoliak  and  Pastolik  rivers  there  is  a  distinct 
channel,  having  two  sharjj  bends  in  it,  leading  into  the  Apoon,  with  a  minimum  depth  in 
1898  of  4t  feet  at  low  tide.  The  channel  from  the  Pastolik  shore  into  the  river  was  well 
marked  during  the  season  of  1809  by  tripods  of  boiler  tubes  at  short  intervals  on  each  side. 
On  account  of  the  ice,  however,  any  marks  would  have  to  be  replaced  each  season. 

THE  APOON  AND  KWIKPAK  PASSES. 

The  distance  between  the  Apoon  mouth  and  the  head  of  the  delta  is  traversed  by 
going  up  the  Apoon  Pass  about  31  miles  to  where  it  branches  off  from  the  Kwikpak  Pass, 
and  then  up  the  Kwikpak  about  30  miles  to  the  head  of  the  delta,  where  it  and  the  Kwiklowak 
Peiss  separate  the  Yukon  into  two  principal  mouths. 

The  Apoon  Pass  has  a  narrow  and  tortuous  channel,  averaging  less  than  ^  mile  in 
width  between  banks.  The  channel  is  ratlier  difiScult  from  the  entrance  to  opposite'Kotlik, 
the  worst  place  being  the  shoals  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kotlik  River.  The  channel  is  very 
narrow  here,  with  but  5  feet  at  low  tide,  and  close  to  the  lower  point  of  the  island  in  front 
of  Kotlik.  As  it  is  necessary  to  cross  the  bar  on  or  near  high  water,  the  portion  from 
Kotlik  down  is  naturally  traver.sed  with  a  water  above  mean  tide,  which  makes  navigation 
simpler  and  easier. 

Above  Kotlik  there  is  good  water  and  no  difficulty  except  between  the  shoals  where  the 
OkAvega  makes  off.  Here  there  is  a  shoal  making  ujistream  from  the  lower  point  of 
Okwega  outlet,  and  also  a  shoal  in  the  middle  of  the  Apoon  abreast  it.  The  channel,  with 
7  feet,  is  between  the  two  shoals.  The  only  other  troublesome  place  in  the  Apoon  is  where 
it  branches  from  the  Kwikpak.  Here  for  2  miles  upstream  it  is  full  of  shifting  bars  and 
shoals.  There  is  a  crossing  carrying  5  feet,  but  no  directions  can  be  given  for  its  location. 
Beyond  this  point  there  is  no  difficulty  in  navigating  the  Kwikpak  until  the  crossing  at 
New  Fort  Hamilton  is  readied,  15  miles  upstream.  Here  the  channel  and  shoals  are  con- 
stantly shifting  and  the  lead  is  the  best  guide.  There  are  no  other  difficulties  in  navigating 
the  Kwikpak,  when  free  of  ice. 

The  Aproka  is  characteristic  of  many  of  the  narrow  channels  in  the  delta.  It  is  a 
cut-off'  about  14  miles  below  the  head  of  the  delta  between  the  Kwikpak  and  the  Kwiklowak 
passes.  The  cut-off  is  about  7  miles  long,  and,  if  going  from  the  lower  portion  of  tlie 
Kwikpak  to  the  Kwiklowak,  b\-  taking  this  route  a  saving  of  about  30  miles  will  bo  made. 
The  Aproka,  although  crooked,  is  deep  all  the  way  through,  with  the  exception  of  the 
entrances,  where  there  are  only  about  4  to  5  feet. 

Inhabitants. — The  natives  are  inostly  migratory,  living  at  different  places  at  different 
seasons.  Their  principal  settlement,  after  leaving  St.  Michael  Island,  is  on  the  Pastolik 
River.     They  are  generally  good-natured  and  extremely  curious  and  friendly.     The  first 


44  BULLETIN   NO.  40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

white  resident  soutlnvest  from  St.  Michael  is  a  half-breed  Russian  trader,  by  the  name  of 
Komkoflf,  living  at  Kotlik,  about  G  miles  from  the  Apoon  mouth,  on  the  Kotlik  River,  a 
short  distance  from  and  in  sight  of  the  Apoon.  Here  is  a  store,  a  rude  Greek  church,  and 
a  few  dwellings.  There  is  no  other  white  settlement  until  New  Fort  Hamilton  is  reached, 
on  the  Kwikpak  36  miles  above  Kotlik,  where  there  is  a  station  of  the  North  American 
Trading  and  Transportation  Company. 

Pilots. — River  steamboats  in  general  carry  Eskimo  pilots,  who  may  be  hired  at  St. 
Michael  and  at  various  places  on  the  river.  They  are,  as  a  rule,  familiar  only  with  a  portion 
of  the  river,  those  from  St.  Michael  usually  going  up  as  far  as  Andreafski.  A  number  of 
native  pilots  live  at  the  village  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pastolik  River.  A  pilot  is  necessary 
in  following  the  Apoon  unless  familiar  with  or  in  possession  of  a  minute  sketch  directory. 
The  Eskimos  are  generally  quick-witted  and  have  a  good  eye  for  the  water ;  but  some  who 
offer  their  services  as  pilots  have  little  idea  of  the  requirements  of  a  steamer,  being  used 
only  to  their  own  skin  boats. 

Tides. — The  tides  at  this  entrance,  as  is  the  case  with  the  shores  of  eastern  Norton 
Sound,  are  greatly  affected  by  the  winds,  northerly  and  easterly  ones  making  low  waters, 
and  southerly  and  southwesterly  ones  making  high  waters.  The  wind  effect  may  be  sufli- 
cient  to  entirely  obliterate  the  natural  tidal  conditions.  The  effect  of  the  tides  reach  above 
the  head  of  the  delta.  At  the  head  of  the  Kwik^jak  Pass  the  rise  and  fall  is  about  G 
inches.     (See  tide  table,  pages  10,  11,  12.) 

Current. — The  ordinary  outflow  of  the  Apoon  is  much  less  rapid  than  other  mouths 
of  the  Yukon ;  but  there  is  a  tidal  inflow  and  outflow,  the  strength  of  which  depends  upon 
the  amount  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  at  any  particular  time. 

Ice. — In  the  fall  thin  ice  begins  to  run  in  the  river  the  latter  part  of  September,  and 
navigation  in  October  is  attended  with  danger  of  being  frozen  in.  It  is  more  than  probable 
that  the  movement  and  clogging  of  the  ice  in  the  breaking  up  of  the  river  in  spring  has 
much  to  do  with  the  location  and  peculiarities  of  the  channels  and  with  clearing  it  perfectly 
from  snags. 

Supplies. — Immediately  within  the  Apoon  mouth  the  water  is  fresh,  and  that  on  the 
flats  outside,  close  in,  is  nearly  so,  the  degree  of  freshness  depending  upon  the  stage  of  the 
tide. 

Cord  wood  is  cut  and  sold  by  the  natives  along  the  river  from  the  mouth  up.  Small 
wood  piles  can  be  seen  at  frec^uent  intervals.  That  in  the  delta,  and  more  particularly  near 
the  mouth,  is  of  inferior  quality,  being  cut  from  wet  driftwood.  The  price  of  cord  wood, 
as  well  as  of  pilot  services,  has  been  very  materially  increased  since  the  beginning  of  the 
Klondike  excitement. 

SAILING    DIRECTIONS,   ST.   MICHAEL    BAY  TO    APOON    MOUTH. 

Coast  around  the  north  shore  of  St.  Michael  Island,  giving  Rock  Point  a  berth  of  not 
less  than  1  mile,  and  the  shore  between  Stephens  Mountain  and  Cape  Stephens  a  berth  of 
not  less  than  j  mile.  From  abreast  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company's  dock  to  Cape 
Stephens  is  13  miles. 

When  Cape  Stephens  bears  E.  by  S.,  distant  J  mile,  steer  S.  by  W.  |  W.  for  25  miles, 
which  will  bring  the  summit  of  Point  Romanof  abeam  and  distant  Ih  miles;  then  change 
coiirse  to  SSW.  j  W.  for  about  14  miles.  In  crossing  the  flats  northwestward  of  the  Apoon 
Pass,  strangers  must  be  guided  by  the  charts  and  any  beacons  and  buoys  that  may  be  placed. 

The  foregoing  S.  by  W.  I  W.  course  crosses,  at  about  one-third  the  distance  from  Cape 
Stephens  to  Point  Romanof,  a  shoaler  place,  with  about  4  feet  at  mean  low  tide.  If  this 
course  is  being  made  at  or  near  low  water,  it  is  preferable  to  go  farther  seaward.  The 
two  following  courses,  covering  the  same  stretch,  will  carry  not  less  than  G  feet  at  mean 
low  tide : 

When  Cape  Stephens  bears  E.  by  S.,  distant  i  mile,  steer  SSW.  I  W.  for  124  miles,  then 
change  course  to  S.  and  continue  for  I'-ii  miles,  which  should  bring  the  summit  of  Point 


BEIUNG    SEA    AM)    AIU'TIC    OCEAN.  45 

Roinanof  abeam  and  distant  lA  miles;  then  \ise  the  fonrse  SSW.  ',  W.  Point  Romanof  to 
Apoou  Bar,  as  before. 

THE  KAWAXAK  (t)K  KAVIKPAK)  BAK  AXD  I'ASS. 

This  is  the  middle  one  of  the  three  important  passes  of  the  Ynkon  Delta.  The  entrance 
from  the  sea  is  95  miles  from  St.  Michael  by  way  of  the  Yukon  flats,  and  is  in  latitude 
62°  57'  N.,  longitude  165°  11'  W.,  13  miles  offshore. 

The  channel  carries  10  feet  over  the  outer  bar  at  low  water,  and  9  feet  over  the  inner 
shoal  which  is  in  sight  of  the  coast.  Two  lines  of  breakers  lie  on  either  side  of  the  outer 
bar.  From  the  seaward  entrance  tlie  channel  to  the  mouth  of  the  jiass  is  20i  miles.  It  is 
narrow  and  crooked,  not  feasible  for  navigation,  and  for  the  last  10  miles  inshore  there  are 
numerous  shoals  exposed  at  low  tide  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  channel.  The  coast  is  low 
and  marshy,  being  only  about  3  feet  above  low  tide,  and  is  not  visible  until  halfway  up 
the  channel.     This  part  of  the  delta  is  10  miles  farther  west  than  shown  on  recent  charts. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  pass,  18  feet  can  be  carried  with  little  difficulty  to  New  Fort 
Hamilton  on  the  Kwlkpak,  a  distance  of  35  miles. 

Kawanak  Pass  from  its  mouth  to  where  it  joins  the  Kwikpak  runs  generally  parallel 
to  the  latter  for  30  miles,  and  carries  much  the  lai"ger  volume  of  water. 

Currents. — The  maximiim  velocity  does  not  exceed  3  knots. 

Inhabitants. — There  are  only  natives  in  this  jiart  of  the  delta.  Two  summer  villages 
are  about  4  miles  up  from  the  mouth  of  the  pass. 

Weather. — The  weather  is  similar  to  that  in  the  other  parts  of  the  delta. 

THE  lOVIKLOW  AK*  BAR  AKD  PASS. 

Thi.s  outlet  is  by  far  the  largest  of  any  of  the  passes  leading  to  the  Yukon.  The  entrance 
is  125  miles  by  water  from  St.  Michael,  and  about  80  miles  by  way  of  the  fiats  from  the 
Apoon  mouth.  The  nearest  harbor  for  vessels  under  medium  size  is  Scammon  Bay,  a 
distance  of  00  miles  from  the  entrance  and  about  42  miles  from  the  Kwiklowak  Bar  crossing. 
About  6  feet,  at  mean  low  tide,  can  be  carried  in  over  the  Kwiklowak  Bar  through  the 
Acharon  Channel.  The  crossing  place  is  about  IG  miles  southwest  fi-om  tlie  entrance, 
and  about  4  miles  off  the  low  shore,  which  can  not  be  seen  until  within  3  or  4  miles  of  it. 
When  once  well  inside  the  entrance,  the  pass  has  remarkably  good  channels,  which  are  easy 
of  navigation  and  free  from  rocks  and  .snags.  Its  minimum  de])th  between  the  entrance 
and  the  head  of  the  delta  is  20  feet,  and  this  depth  can  be  carried  up  the  Yukon  as  far 
as  the  survey  of  1899  extended,  to  near  Andreafski.  There  are  several  stretches  where  the 
dejith  is  more  than  50  feet,  and-  at  some  places  depths  as  great  as  84  feet  were  found. 

Tlie  lower  portion  oi  tlie  Kwiklowak,  which  is  confined"  between  continuous  banks, 
is  about  J  mile  wide,  after  leaving  which  there  is  a  very  abrui^t  physical  change  in  its 
condition  by  spreading  out  northward  and  westwar<l,  with  numerous  minor  cliannels, 
while  the  main  river  widens  to  about  If  miles;  beyond  tliis  it  spreads  out  over  the  flats, 
through  which  its  main  channel  is  only  fairly  well  defined  at  extremely  low  tides.  All  the 
slioals  and  flats  are  covered  at  high  water,  and  there  are  no  islands  or  bare  slioals  off  the 
entrance  at  high  tide.  Besides  the  Acharon  there  are  four  other  channels  at  this  mouth 
leading  out  on  the  bar  in  widely  divergent  directions.  Some  of  these  carry  aci'oss  tlie  liar 
slightly  greater  depths  than  the  Acharon,  but  all  are  nai'row,  crooked,  and  bordered  l)y 
shoals  bare  at  extreme  low  tides.  N<mc  of  them  afford  a  practicalile  entrance  for  deep- 
water  vessels  at  the  present  time. 

The  main  cliannels  are  every wliore  free  fnnn  snags,  though  trees  are  sometimes  seen 
temporarily  lodged  on  the  bars,  and  quantities  of  driftwood  are  piled  along  the  shores  in 
places.  Undoubtedly  the  ice  freezes  in  and  carries  oil'  the  snags  when  it  goes  out  each 
season.     The  channels  and  banks  show  indications  of  changing  rapidly  both  from  erosion 


•Ou  the  older  charts  culled  Kunilvuk. 


46  BULLEXIX    SO.   40 — SKCOXD    EDITION. 

and  deposit.  Very  probably  much  of  this  is  effected  each  year  during  the  breaking  up  of 
the  ice,  its  consequent  jams,  and  the  great  floods  following. 

The  land  along  the  outer  shores  is  only  a  foot  or  two  above  high  water,  is  covered  only 
with  low  marsh  grass,  and  is  entirely  lost  to  view  when  but  a  few  miles  offshore.  The  only 
landmarks  visible  in  clear  weather  are  the  .sharp  peaks  of  Kusilvak  Mountain  and  the 
Askinuk  Mountains  back  of  Cape  Romanzof,  all  very  distant  and  often  obscured  by  clouds 
or  mist.  The  extreme  flatness  of  the  laud  and  the  remarkable  mirage  effect,  often  seen  over 
the  shoals  when  bare,  make  the  whole  region  deceptive  at  times.  When  well  inside  the 
confined  banks  of  the  Kwiklowak,  the  country  on  each  side  is  covered  with  an  almost  con- 
tinuous growth  of  willow  and  alder  bushes.  The  water  has  a  brownish-white  appearance, 
something  like  glacial  water,  without  its  fine,  sharp  grit.  It  has  no  unpleasant  taste,  and 
is  always  fresh  in  the  inner  channel. 

Inhabitants. — No  white  men  live  in  the  delta  south  of  the  Apoon  except  the  Catholic 
missionaries  at  a  summer  fishing  station.  There  are  large  Eskimo  settlements  at  the 
mouths  of  the  Kwiklowak  and  Kripuiyuk  rivers.  The  natives  are  friendly  and  honest,  and 
will  attempt  to  pilot  boats,  with  more  or  less  success. 

Currents. — None  were  observed  to  exceed  3  knots  i^er  hour.  In  the  delta  channels 
currents  were  observed  varying  from  0.5  to  l.G  knots.  The  velocities  were  greater  in  the 
bar  channels  and  up  the  river. 

Weather. — The  prevailing  winds  in  summer  are  northeasterly,  easterly,  and  south- 
easterly ;  the  strong  blows  are  believed  to  come  from  the  same  directions.  Fogs  were  un- 
usual, but  there  was  a  good  deal  of  thick  mist  and  rain. 

The  Kripniyuk  River  entrance  is  narrow,  crooked,  and  has  a  stronger  tidal  current 
than  the  Kwiklowak. 


COAST    FROM   CAPE   1S03IE   TO   BEKIXG  STRAIT. 

Cape  Nome  is  a  bluff,  about  300  feet  high,  apparently  1  mile  broad,  and  rounded 
down  to  the  water  on  either  side,  where  there  is  low  land  at  the  shore,  with  higher  laud 
farther  back.     The  water  off  this  cape  is  quite  deep. 

Sledge  Island,  about  25  miles  west  of  Cape  Nome  and  4  to  5  miles  offshore,  is  a  rocky, 
fiat-topped  island  rising  over  600  feet  above  the  water,  and  comparatively  rounded  in  out- 
line. There  is  a  native  village  on  a  small,  rocky  slope  on  the  east  side;  excepting  this  and 
a  short  sand  spit  making  oft"  from  the  northern  end  of  the  i.sland,  the  shores  are  very  steep. 
The  island  may  be  safely  approached  fi'om  any  direction,  and  anchorage  may  be  had  on  all 
sides  of  it ;  rocky  bottom  is  reported  in  some  localities.  A  least  depth  of  6^  fathoms  has 
been  found  in  mid-channel  between  the  island  and  the  mainland.  This  island  is  shown  too 
far  offshore  on  the  charts. 

From  Cape  Nome  to  Point  Rodney  the  shore,  except  abreast  of  Sledge  Island,  is  a  com- 
paratively straight  stretch  of  low  sand  beach  with  no  protecting  points  aud  the  higher  land 
some  distance  back.  Abreast  of  Sledge  Island  for  a  distance  of  several  miles  the  hills  slope 
down  to  the  beach,  giving  this  part  of  the  coast  the  appearance  of  a  point.  The  stretch  of 
beach  is  broken  bj-  a  number  of  small  rivers  where  mining  operations  are  being  carried  on. 
The  entrances  to  Nome  River,  Snake  River,  and  Sinrock  River  have  shifting  bars,  but  there 
is  generally  water  enoiigh  in  the  channels  over  these  bars  to  permit  light-draft  river  steamers 
to  enter.  When  approaching  the  shore,  between  Cape  Nome  and  Point  Rodney,  the 
water  shoals  regularly  and  gradually  until  a  depth  of  5  fathoms  is  reached;  inside  this 
depth  the  bottom  is  irregiilar,  especially  near  the  mouths  of  the  rivers.  Near  Cape  Nome 
the  5-fathom  curve  is  from  ^  to  |  mile,  while  near  Point  Rodney  it  is  from  1  mile  to  1^ 
miles  from  the  shore.  Nome  City  is  on  the  beach  at  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  River,  about 
11  miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Nome.  The  general  anchorage  for  deep-draft  vessels  is  in  7 
fathoms  of  water,  about  1  mile  from  the  beach  abreast  of  the  town.  Vessels  of  less  draft 
anchor  in  5  fathoms,  a  little  closer  in  to  the  beach,  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  anchor  in  less 


BERIJTG    SEA   A^^I>    AncTIC    OCEAN.  47 

than  5  fathoms  of  water.  In  strong  sontlicrly  winds  no  landing  can  be  made  on  the  boach, 
and  the  anchorage  is  unsafe.  Southerly  winds  raise  the  water  on  the  shore  and  uortliorly 
winds  lower  it. 

A  small  shoal,  with  about  17  feet  of  water  over  it,  is  reported  as  lying  about  8  miles  to 
the  westward  of  Cape  Nome  and  about  1|  miles  offshore;  a  depth  of  23  feet  was  found  just 
inshore  of  this  shoal. 

From  Point  Rodney  to  Cape  Douglas  the  shore  is  a  low  sand  beach,  tlie  high  land  is  farther 
inland  from  the  beach  than  eastward  of  Point  Rodney.  This  stretch  of  the  coast  is  seldom 
approached  close-to;  the  water  is  comparatively  shallow,  and  vessels  are  cautioned  to 
exercise  care  when  approaching  tlie  shore. 

Currents. — A  tidal  current  is  perceptible  from  Cape  Nome  to  Point  Rodney,  but  the 
strongest  current  sets  northwestward;  lying  at  anchor,  vessels  usually  tail  to  the  north- 
westward. Above  Point  Rodney  there  is  no  perceptible  current  southward  or  eastward; 
the  general  set  is  northward  and  westward. 

King  Island  is  rugged  and  rocky,  about  2  miles  square,  and  600  feet  high.  It  has 
nearly  perpendicular  cliffs,  deep  water,  and  generally  rocky  bottom  on  all  sides.  There  is 
a  native  village  on  the  south  side,  the  houses  being  built  in  the  sides  of  the  cliffs  some  dis- 
tance above  the  water.  Off  the  village,  but  close  inshore,  vessels  may  anchor  in  about  15 
fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  with  good  protection  from  northwest  winds.  In  clear  weather  the 
island  is  an  excellent  landfall  for  vessels  coming  from  the  southward  and  boitnd  to  Port 
Clarence. 

Cape  York,  at  the  shore  line,  is  a  high,  rocky,  nearly  vertical  cliff',  with  numerous 
distinct  ravines,  and  a  range  of  high,  rugged  mountains  immediately  back  of  it.  The  cliff 
is  about  10  to  12  miles  in  extent.  There  is  no  distinct  promontory,  and  no  exact  point 
along  the  cliff"  that  can  be  defined  as  the  cape.  The  water  shoals  slightly  off  the  western 
end  of  the  cliff',  but  nothing  less  than  6  fathoms  will  be  found  at  a  distance  of  2\  miles 
from  shore. 

Between  Cape  York  and  the  high  land  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  there  is  a  bight,  with 
comparatively  low,  rolling  land  back  of  it  extending  across  the  peninsula  to  the  northern 
.shore.  The  beach  is  low,  and  the  water  shoals  gradually  when  approaching  the  shore. 
The  eastern  part  of  the  bight  is  slightly  shoaler  than  the  western  part,  about  G  fathoms 
will  be  found  1  mile  off'shore;  in  the  western  part  of  the  bight  8  fathoms  will  be  found  at 
the  same  distance  from  the  beach.  When  standing  westward  along  shore,  and  when  abreast 
of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  Mountain,  the  water  deepens  suddenly  to  20  fathoms. 

PORT  CliARENCE. 

This  is  a  good  harbor,  close  to  the  strait,  free  from  ocean  swell,  and  is  the  rendezvous 
for  the  arctic  whaling  fleet,  that  here  await  the  tender  from  San  Francisco  which  supplies 
them  with  coal  and  provisions  and  takes  back  the  oil  and  whalebone  of  the  spring  catch. 
As  a  general  rule,  the  tender  to  the  whaling  fleet  arrives  at  Port  Clarence  from  July  1  to  5, 
without  encountering  much  heavy  ice.  The  bay  itself  is  clear  of  ice  about  June  25  to  30. 
There  are  three  native  settlements  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  bay,  and  the  natives  assem- 
ble on  Point  Spencer  in  the  early  part  of  July  for  trade  with  the  whaling  vessels. 

The  bay  is  formed  by  a  sand  sjjit  which  extends  from  tlie  mainland  west  and  then 
north,  terminating  in  Point  Spencer  in  latitude  05°  IG'  40"  N.,  longitude  1GG°  47'  50"  W. 
The  end  of  the  point  is  quite  bold-to  and  can  be  approached  as  close  as  i  mile,  with  depth 
of  7  fathoms.  The  channel  between  Point  Spencer  and  Point  Jackson,  on  the  north  shore, 
is  ab(jut  4  miles  wide,  clear  of  danger,  and  carries  from  7  to  9  fathoms.  One  and  one-half 
miles  south  of  Point  Spencer  a  shoal  makes  into  the  bay  from  the  sand  spit,  having  depths 
of  2^  fathoms  1  mile  oft'.  The  northern  half  of  the  bay  has  a  general  depth  of  7  fathoms 
as  close  as  1  mile  from  the  shore;  the  southern  half  of  the  bay  shoals  gradually  from  tliis 
depth  toward  the  shore,  and  the  extreme  southern  part  is  very  shoal.     The  north  shore  is 


48  BULLETIN    NO.    40 SECOND    EDITION. 

clear  of  danger,  and  can  be  ajjproached  as  close  as  i  mile,  the  soundings  decreasing  regu- 
larly to  the  beach. 

Port  Clarence  connects  at  its  northeast  end  with  Grantley  Harbor,  which  is  3  to  4 
miles  wide,  abovit  12  miles  long,  and  connects  at  its  eastern  end  by  a  narrow,  difficult  chan- 
nel with  a  lai'ge  lake  farther  inland.  The  mouth  of  the  harbor  is  formed  by  two  sand  spits 
which  slightly  overlap.  The  water  westward  of  the  sand  spits  is  shoal,  but  there  is  a 
channel  close  to  the  north  one  which  can  be  used  by  vessels  drawing  12  feet  or  less,  but 
which  should  be  sounded  out  before  attempting  to  enter.  Inside  the  harbor  the  depths 
range  from  2^  to  3  fathoms,  and  it  is  larobable  that  a  draft  of  12  feet  can  be  taken  through 
the  channel  to  the  lake.  Vessels  have  gone  into  Grantley  Hurboi'  to  heave  down  and 
repair  on  the  north  sand  spit. 

Fresh.  Water  can  be  obtained  in  several  i>laces  in  Port  Clarence,  the  best  being  from 
a  stream  on  the  east  side  south  ?f  Cape  Riley  and  bearing  ESE.  ^  E.  from  Point  Spencer. 

Anchorage. — The  anchorage  used  by  the  whaling  fleet  is  in  5  fathoms,  just  inside 
Point  Spencer. 

Yog. — In  this  vicinity  fog  is  quite  prevalent  and  very  dense  in  summer. 

Tides. — See  tide  table,  pages  10, 11.  Southwesterly  winds  increase  and  northeasterly 
winds  decrease  the  height  of  tide. 

Current. — Outside  of  Point  Sjjencer  the  ciirrent  sets  northwestward  with  a  velocity 
of  1  to  2  knots  per  hour. 

GElSrERAL,  DIRECTIONS  TO  PORT  CliARElSTCE. 

In  approaching  Port  Clarence  in  thick  or  misty  weather  the  long,  low  spit  of  sand  and 
shingle  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  bay  is  not  seen  until  it  is  close-to.  The  best  course 
from  the  southward  is  to  steer  directly  for  Cape  York,  bearing  in  mind  the  set  of  the 
current  to  the  northwestward,  and  after  making  Cape  York  follow  along  the  coast  east- 
ward until  the  entrance  to  Port  Clarence  is  made  out,  then  steer  for  the  anchorage  just 
inside  Point  Spencer.  Between  Cape  York  and  Point  Jackson  depths  of  7  to  9  fathoms  are 
found  about  2  miles  offshore. 

Dangers. — A  shoal  having  a  least  reported  depth  of  IJ  fathoms  lies  nearly  5  miles  off- 
shore and  about  halfway  between  Cape  Douglass  and  Point  Spencer,  and  vessels  should 
keep  well  outside  of  it.  Extending  about  west-northwest  from  this  shoal  toward  Cape  York 
is  a  ridge  having  hard  bottom  and  depths  ranging  from  4  fathoTns  near  its  southeastern  end 
to  5  fathoms  in  about  the  latitude  of  Point  Spencer.  This  ridge  extends  nearly  to  the  north 
shore.  It  is  recommended  that  vessels  approaching  Port  Clarence  give  the  lowland 
between  Cape  Douglass  and  Point  Spencer  a  berth  of  not  less  than  5  miles  before  hauling  in 
for  the  entrance. 


BERIIfG    SEA   AND   ARCTIC   OCEAN.  49 


ARCTIC  OCEAN. 

The  remarks  on  tlie  luivigation  of  Beriu"-  Sea  (pages  7,  8,  9 )  apply  generally  to  tlie  Arctic 
Ocean  as  far  as  Point  Barrow,  except  that  the  current  and  soundings  in  the  Arctic  are  more 
uniform,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  shoals  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  Hotham  Inlet, 
Blossom  Shoals,  and  Point  Franklin,  thei-e  are  no  outlying  dangers,  and  the  lead  is  an 
excellent  guide  in  approaching  the  land.  Another  exception  is  that  in  the  Arctic  the 
question  of  ice  must  always  be  considered.  The  following  remarks  on  the  navigation, 
weather,  and  currents  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  by  Capt.  M.  A.  Healy,  R.  C.  S.,  contained  in 
the  report  of  the  cruise  of  the  Revenue  Steamer  Corwin  in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  1884,  thoiigh 
relating  to  an  extreme  season,  may  be  of  interest  to  those  navigating  these  waters : 

"In  my  previous  experience  in  the  Arctic  I  have  never  seen  a  season  like  the  past. 
From  the  time  of  first  reaching  the  ice  up  to  leaving  the  Arctic  dense  fog  has  been  almost 
constant.  Currents  that  have  hitherto  been  considered  jiermanent  in  direction,  if  not  in 
force,  have  become  erratic,  and  others  have  entirely  failed.  The  ice  fell  back  before  the 
sun's  advance  slowly  and  compactly.  For  three  weeks  after  we  reached  the  Diomede 
Islands  it  refused  entrance  into  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  three  weeks  later  still  it  was  hanging 
with  discouraging  tenacity  around  Point  Hope.  It  was  un.safe  to  anchor  with  anj''  but  a 
short  scope,  moving  steam  had  to  be  kept,  and  constant  vigilance  exercised  to  prevent  being 
dragged  ashore  by  fields  of  ice  moving  in  the  rapid  and  changing  currents.  For  weeks  at 
a  time  it  was  impossible  to  take  observations,  dead  reckoning  was  almost  worthless,  owing 
to  the  continual  changes  in  force  and  direction  of  the  currents,  and  the  safety  of  the  ship 
depended  entirely  on  the  constant  use  of  the  lead.  Fortunately  for  those  who  are  obliged 
to  sail  this  frozen  ocean,  the  depth  of  water  is  not  so  groat  but  what  bottom  can  always  be 
obtained,  and  the  proximity  of  land  is  indicated  by  regular  shoaling,  with  but  few  excep- 
tions. Yet  with  this  aid  and  the  best  charts  that  we  have,  several  years'  experience  is 
necessary  to  enable  the  navigator  to  judge  with  any  degree  of  precision  the  position  of  the 
ship.  Anyone  at  all  familiar  with  coasting  knows  how  difficult  it  is  to  recognize  land  in  a 
fog  where  marks  are  well  defined— high  bluffs  often  appearing  like  low  beaches  and  small 
rocks  looming  to  gigantic  size,  while  the  general  contour  of  tlie  small  portion  of  the  shore 
visible  may  be  taken  for  almost  any  land  that  one  expects  to  make.  How  much  more 
difficult  must  it  be  where  the  formation  of  the  shore  for  miles  differs  but  little,  as  is  the 
case  in  the  Arctic. 

"Among  the  best  landmarks  that  we  have  in  these  northern  waters  are  the  bird  rook- 
eries. There  is  one  at  King  Island,  one  at  the  Diomedes,  one  at  Cape  Sepjiings,  one  at  Cape 
Thompson,  and  one  at  Cape  Lisburne.  The  distance  between  these  rookeries  enables  one 
to  form  a  very  accurate  idea  of  the  one  he  is  approaching,  while  the  cries  of  birds  congre- 
gated at  them  admirably  answers  the  purpose  of  a  fog  signal.  With  one  or  two  exceptions, 
these  are  the  only  aids  to  navigation  in  this  foggy,  unsurveyed,  and  dangerous  sea. 

"In  the  shallow  waters  of  this  ocean  the  effect  of  the  wind  on  the  currents  is  perhaps 
more  marked  than  in  any  other  i>a''t  of  the  globe. 

"Inside  the  Arctic  circle  snow  has  fallen  all  the  jjast  season,  and  it  may  almost  bo  said 
that  there  has  been  no  summer.  As  late  as  August  27  ice  was  within  a  few  miles  of  Capo 
Sabine,  and  at  the  Sea  Horse  Islands  it  was  heavy  and  dangerous.  Tlie  pack  at  this  time 
was  still  to  the  southward  of  Point  Barrow,  and  there  were  few  indications  that  vessels 
would  be  able  to  go  to  the  eastward  of  that  place  this  season.  During  the  latter  part  of 
our  stay  the  weather  was  exceptionally  severe.  About  the  Fox  Islands  heavy  storms  were 
frecjuent  and  rain  almost  incessant.  Advices  received  in  San  Francisco  since  my  arrival 
confirmed  my  opinion  as  to  vessels  l)eing  able  to  weather  Point  Barrow  this  yeai*. 

"The  e.fpei'ience  of  many  years  in  the  Arctic  has  demonstrated  tlie  fact  that  no  rules 
whatever  can  be  given  as  to  the  time  of  the  breaking  uj)  of  the  ice.     The  severity  of  the 


50  BULLETIN    NO.   40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

winter,  the  time  at  winch  spring  weather  opens,  and  the  beginning  of  southerly  winds  that 
break  up  the  ice,  all  have  their  influence  in  governing  this  time.  Vessels  have  been  able  to 
enter  St.  Michael  as  earlj^  as  May  21 ;  this  year  we  found  ice  to  the  southward  of  St.  Mat- 
thew Island  on  June  2,  and  some  days  later  still  in  the  season  vessels  have  been  stopped  by 
it  between  the  Seal  Islands  and  Nunivak.  The  southern  limit  of  the  ice  is  almost  entirely 
dependent  on  the  severity  of  the  winter.  Heavy  southerly  winds  and  swell  will  break  up 
the  ice,  and  if  followed  by  northerly  winds  it  will  open  oiit  and  the  waters  become  naviga- 
ble. When  once  broken  up,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  it  will  not  cement  again  if  nipping,  and 
consequently  will  open  more  readily  to  light  winds.  Northeast  winds  tend  to  drive  the 
ice  off  the  American  shore  and  westerly  winds  off  the  Siberian  side.  With  these  few 
exceptions  little  can  be  said  of  ice  conditions. 

' '  In  clear  weather  the  ice  blink  indicates  the  presence  of  ice,  and  it  may  be  seen  a  great 
distance,  but  in  thick,  foggy  weather  approach  to  the  jiack  must  be  made  with  great  caution. 
Its  proximity  is  usually  indicated  by  the  slack,  and  when  this  once  begins  to  be  seen  about 
the  vessel  it  may  be  judged  that  a  large  body  is  not  far  distant.  As  the  pack  is  neared  one 
sees  only  ice  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  It  rises  from  10  to  25  feet  above  the  water,  in  all 
manner  of  fantastic  forms  and  shapes,  presents  all  colors  of  blue,  from  an  indigo  to  an 
almost  white,  and  glistens  in  the  sun's  bleak  rays  with  a  splendor  blinding  to  the  naked  eye. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  depth  of  water  and  the  surroiinding  features  of  this  ocean 
render  the  formation  of  gigantic  icebergs  an  impossibility,  and  no  mountains  of  ice  add  the 
sublimity  and  terror  of  their  presence  to  the  pack,  yet  there  is  in  this  harmless-looking  body 
that  which  man  can  never  conquer.  Inside  its  solid  front  no  vessel  can  penetrate,  and  once 
caught  within  its  grasp  it  is  almost  a  miracle  that  she  ever  escapes.  No  ship  can  be  built 
that  will  stand  its  crushing  force,  and  no  ram  be  made  so  powerful  as  to  break  its  way 
through  it.     It  is  only  when  the  elements  combine  against  it  that  man  can  invade  its  domain. 

' '  When  a  pack  is  reached  it  usually  becomes  necessary  to  track  along  its  edge  to  find  a 
lead.  Whoever  is  piloting  the  ship  takes  his  place  at  the  masthead,  and  with  glass  in  hand 
seeks  for  a  favorable  opening.  Oftentimes  daj's  are  spent  working  ujd  and  down  along  the 
ice  without  clear  water  presenting  itself,  and  when  it  does  extreme  caution  must  be  used  in 
entering  the  lead.  It  is  here  that  the  judgment  and  experience  of  the  ice  pilot  become  a 
necessity.  The  weather,  currents,  appearance  of  the  ice,  probable  winds,  and  a  dozen  otlier 
things  that  would  never  enter  the  mind  of  the  novice,  are  to  be  taken  into  consideration 
before  the  vessel's  head  is  turned  into  the  pack.  Once  it  is  determined  to  enter  the  lead 
vigilance  must  be  doubled  and  every  faculty  kept  on  the  alert.  The  vessel  is  conned  from 
the  masthead,  and,  while  directing  how  the  helm  must  be  put  to  keep  clear  of  immediate 
danger,  the  pilot  must  be  looking  ahead  for  the  clearest  water,  and  watching  ice,  sea,  and 
sky  for  change  of  currents  and  winds.  If  any  signs  of  the  closing-in  of  the  lead  are  presented 
the  vessel  must  be  got  out  as  soon  as  possible,  for,  if  shut  in  and  she  escai^es  being  crushed, 
she  will  go  to  the  northward  in  the  drifting  pack  from  1  to  3  knots  per  hour,  and  it  will 
become  necessary  to  abandon  her.  If  the  lead  followed  up  is  between  the  ground  ice  and 
the  pack  and  the  wind  comes  on  shore,  a  safe  place  can  sometimes  be  found  behind  the 
ground  ice.  A  vessel  may  be  made  fast  to  this  ice  with  grapnels,  or  anchored  to  leeward  of 
it,  and  lay  with  comparative  safety.  If  anchored  in  a  current,  however,  with  drifting  ice 
about  her,  the  scope  of  chain  must  be  short,  and  everything  kept  in  readiness  for  getting 
under  way  at  a  moment's  notice.  If  anchored  in  shoal  water,  it  is  desirable  to  get  in  the 
ice  as  far  as  possible  to  avoid  the  swell;  but  if  the  water  is  deep  the  ice  should  be  avoided. 
Generally  the  presence  of  the  ice  tends  to  kill  the  swell,  and  it  will  be  found  much  smoother 
inside  the  ice  than  out. 

"The  bowhead  whale  keeps  as  far  to  the  northward  as  he  can  find  spouting  holes,  and 
to  take  him  the  whalers  are  obliged  to  keep  as  close  to  the  pack  as  possible.  Usually  they 
track  along  the  Asiatic  side  in  Bering  Sea  and  Strait,  and,  as  they  reach  the  Arctic,  cross 
over  and  work  up  the  American  shore  to  the  northward  and  eastward.  In  Bering  Sea  there 
is  verj^  little  danger  in  entering  the  ice,  as  it  is  almost  sure  to  open  and  offer  a  chance  to 


lilCIUNC;    SKA    AM)    AIICTIC    OCEAN.  al 

esc.ij)e  before  reucliiiig  the  Arctic.  With  a  knowledge  of  this  fact,  whalers  sometimes  enter 
the  ice  to  the  southward  of  the  strait  and  endeavor  to  work  through  it  if  they  have  reason 
to  believe,  from  the  sudden  disappearance  of  the  whale,  that  there  is  clear  water  to  the 
northward.  In  the  Arctic,  however,  the  pack  is  carefully  avoided,  and  it  is  only  when 
conditions  are  most  favorable  that  attempts  are  made  to  follow  up  the  leads.  Point  Barrow 
is  approached  with  the  greatest  caution,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  places  in  the 
Arctic.  As  has  already  been  mentioned,  by  far  the  major  portion  of  the  vessels  lost  in  the 
Arctic  are  wrecked  in  its  vicinity." 

lOE. — Bering  Strait  is  free  of  ice  by  the  first  week  in  July  and  sometimes  earlier,  but 
clear  water  does  not  extend  very  far  to  the  northward,  and  it  is  seldom  possible  for  vessels 
not  fitted  to  encounter  ice  to  reach  Point  Hope  before  July  10-15.  Kotzebue  Sound  is 
usually  open  by  July  15,  at  times  a  few  days  earlier,  but  it  has  been  known  to  remain 
closed  until  the  last  of  Jnlj.  The  running  ice  from  Kotzebiie  Sound  is  encountered  at 
Point  Hope  .some  time  after  the  pack  has  moved  to  the  northward.  By  July  15  the  main 
pack  has  moved  north  of  Cape  Lisburne. 

Thus  far  the  movement  of  the  ice  does  not  appear  to  depend  to  such  a  great  extent  on 
the  winds,  it  is  reasonably  certain  each  year,  and  dates  can  be  depended  upon  within  a 
small  limit  of  time ;  but  north  of  Cape  Lisburne  the  movement  is  generally  slow,  uncertain, 
varying  greatly  in  point  of  time  in  different  years,  and  seems  to  depend  almost  wholly  on 
the  winds  for  its  further  movement.  Prevailing  northeasterly  winds  move  it  away  from 
the  shore  rapidly  and  early,  while  southwesterly  or  westerly  winds  hold  it  against  the  shore 
and  make  a  late  season. 

From  Icy  Cajje  north  no  specific  time  can  be  set  for  the  opening  of  navigation.  Its 
variations  are  from  July  12  to  the  latter  part  of  August,  though  an  average  date  for  the 
whaling  vessels  to  reach  Point  Barrow  is  about  August  1.  Between  these  points  in  the 
early  part  of  the  season  the  ice  is  always  dangerously  near  the  shore,  and  southwesterly  or 
westerly  winds  will  bring  it  in.  Later,  the  southei-n  point  of  the  pack  is  just  off  Sea  Horse 
Islands  and  generally  remains  there  the  rest  of  the  season.  From  the  Sea  Horse  Islands  to 
Point  Barrow  the  pack  is  seldom  far  offshore,  and  from  the  latter  point  can  almost  always  be 
seen.  During  the  open  season  it  is  always  liable  to  come  in  on  these  two  points  with  a 
westerly  wind. 

Beyond  Icy  Cape  there  is  always  danger  to  vessels,  and  strangers  should  be  cautious 
and  careful  in  going  there.  In  the  lead  of  open  water  between  the  pack  and  the  shore  the 
current  is  swift  and  nearly  always  carries  drift  ice,  and  vessels  rarely  reach  Point  Barrow  at 
any  time  without  encountering  some  ice.  The  ice  can  not  be  forced,  and  vessels  should  not 
venture  into  small  leads  between  the  pack  and  shore  ice.  With  a  southwesterly  or  westerly 
wind,  which  brings  the  ice  in,  vessels  seek  protection  east  of  Point  Barrow  when  it  is  open, 
in  Peard  Bay  close  in  as  possible,  and  under  the  lea  of  heavy  ground  ice,  which  acts  as  a 
breakwater  against  the  smaller  cakes.  In  anchoring  where  there  is  drifting  ice  vessels 
should  use  a  short  scope  and  be  ready  to  get  under  way  immediately.  A  comparatively 
small  cake  will  sometimes  cause  the  loss  of  an  anchor  and  chain.  In  the  vicinity  of  Point 
Barrow  sailing  vessels  should  not  go  offshore  in  water  too  deep  to  anchor,  as  in  light  winds 
or  calms  the  current  is  likely  to  take  them  into  the  pack.  Navigation  east  of  Point  Barrow 
is  such  that  it  should  oidy  be  attempted  by  those  having  experience. 

As  a  rule,  the  pack  does  not  come  down  on  Point  Barrow  before  the  latter  part  of  Sep- 
tember, but  in  1897  it  came  down  the  first  of  September,  and,  in  general,  exce])t  for  whaling 
vessels,  whose  officers  are  men  of  long  experience  in  judging  the  ice,  weather,  etc.,  Septem- 
ber 1  is  as  late  a  date  as  vessels  should  remain  in  that  vicinity.  About  this  time,  or  a  little 
later,  young  ice  begins  to  make  in  the  lagoons,  aknig  the  shore,  and  around  the  old  ice, 
though  it  is  not  likely  to  form  in  the  open  sea  until  the  last  of  the  month.  The  ytning  ice 
makes  stronger  and  spreads  over  the  open  sea  with  the  advancing  season.  It  is  dangerous 
to  vessels,  and  will  very  quickly  cut  through  one  not  sheathed  to  withstand  it.  Ordinary 
vessels  should  be  out  of  Kotzebue  Sound  by  September  15  to  20,  and  out  of  the  Arctic  by 


52  BULLETIN   NO.   40 — SECOND   EDITION. 

October  1.     The  whaling  vessels  make  it  a  rule  to  be  ready  to  leave  there  about  October  10, 
and  though  there  may  be  times  when  they  stay  later,  these  are  exceiDtious. 

At  times  there  is  a  body  of  ice,  which  holds  on  the  Siberian  shore  through  the  summer, 
that  moves  down  past  East  Cape  into  the  western  side  of  Bering  Strait,  sometimes  as  early 
as  the  latter  part  of  August,  and  makes  that  side  of  the  strait  difficult  of  navigation  late  in 
the  season. 

AA'EATHER. — In  summer  the  weather  is  usually  light,  with  much  fog  and  rain.  The 
winds  are  variable,  though  mostly  easterly  and  southerly.  There  are  seldom  gales  in  sum- 
mer, but  occasionally,  sometimes  with  intervals  of  years,  there  come  southwesterly  gales, 
short-lived  but  very  severe  and  disastrous,  as  there  is  little  protection  from  winds  in  that 
quarter.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  ice  the  weather  is  nearly  always  light  and  foggy.  Later  in 
the  season  it  grows  more  boisterous,  gales  are  freciueut  and  more  generally  from  the  north- 
ward, and  as  the  weather  grows  colder  there  is  considerable  snow. 

CURREKTS. — From  Bering  Strait  to  Point  Barrow  there  is  a  general  current  setting 
northward  alongshore  (stronger  inshore),  which,  when  not  affected  by  winds  or  stopped 
by  the  ice,  has  a  velocity  of  not  less  than  1  knot  at  any  part  of  it.  The  current  from 
the  strait  turns  northeastward  and  is  joined  north  of  Cape  Krusenstern  by  that  from 
Kotzebue  Sound.  From  Eschscholtz  Bay  a  northerly  current  sets  along-shore  on  the  eastern 
side  of  Kutzebue  Sound,  having  a  velocity  of  from  ^  to  1  knot  at  Cape  Blossom.  It  continues 
past  Cape  Krusenstern,  where  it  is  increased  by  the  flow  from  Hotham  Inlet  to  a  velocity 
of  1  to  2  knots,  and  to  the  northward  of  the  cape  joins  the  current  from  Bering  Strait,  where, 
in  the  latter  part  of  July  and  August,  its  velocity  is  from  H  to  2  knots.  It  continues  with 
the  same  velocity  around  Point  Hope,  then  with  a  reduced  velocity  to  Cape  Lisburne  and 
across  to  a  short  distance  south  of  Point  Lay.  After  rounding  Point  Hope,  and  thence  to 
Icy  Cape,  the  current  does  not  api)ear  so  strong,  and,  as  a  rule,  is  aboitt  1  knot. 

In  the  bight  between  Cape  Lisburne  and  Cape  Beaufort  there  is  a  tidal  current,  and, 
rtnless  driven  in  l)y  a  westerly  wind,  the  outside  genertil  current  is  not  felt. 

Northward  of  Point  Lay,  if  the  ice  has  not  opened  up  from  the  shore,  the  current 
is  stopped ;  but  if  the  ice  is  open  to  Point  Barrow  the  current  continues  along  the  shore 
and,  because  of  the  contracted  space  between  the  shore  and  the  ice,  increases  in  velocity 
to  from  2  to  3  knots,  and  sometimes  more,  at  Point  Barrow. 

This  general  current  is  more  or  less  affected  by  the  wind,  and  may  be  decreased  or  even 
stopped  at  times  by  northerly  winds,  but  when  the  wind  abates  it  starts  again.  When  the 
wind  is  with  the  current  its  velocity  is  increased.  Well  offshore  the  currents  are  variable  and 
not  so  strong,  and  depend  to  a  great  extent  on  the  winds.  There  is,  however,  a  general 
set  to  the  northward. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  seen  from  the  southward,  is  a  high  mottntain  peak,  compara- 
tively regular  in  outline;  on  the  south  and  southwest  sides  the  slope  of  the  mountain 
comes  down  to  the  sea.  The  face  of  the  cape  is  a  low  sand  beach,  which  extends  north- 
northwest  3  to  4  miles  from  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  then  trends  northeastward  toward 
Shishmaref  Inlet.  On  this  sand  beach,  close  to  the  mountain,  is  the  native  village  of 
Kingegan,  the  largest  on  the  northern  coast.  Just  back  of  the  village  a  ridge  extends  sev- 
eral miles  northward  from  the  peak,  distinguished  by  a  number  of  ragged  points  and  large 
fragments  of  rock  on  top. 

On  approaching  the  cape  from  the  south  westward,  nothing  less  than  30  fathoms  of  water 
can  be  had  at  a  distance  of  f  mile  from  the  highland  at  its  southwestern  extremity.  From 
this  point  the  20-fathom  line  runs  nearly  northwest,  gradually  increasing  its  distance  from 
shore,  until  5  miles  to  the  northward,  where  it  is  3  miles  offshore.  The  3-fathom  line,  com- 
mencing very  close  to  the  southwest  point,  increases,  almost  at  once,  its  distance  from  the 
shore  line  to  1  mile,  continuing  at  that  distance  until  the  cape  makes  northeastward,  where 
it  joins,  i^resumably.  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  Shoal. 


BEIUXG    SEA    AXI)    ARCTIC    UCKAX.  53 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  Shoal  seems  to  be  a  ridge  of  sand,  wliich  extends  about  north- 
nortlnvest  from  the  western  extremity  of  the  cape  to  a  distance  of  about  30  miles.  The 
depth  of  water  on  the  shoal  is  not  definitely  known,  but  numerous  cases  are  reported  of 
whaling  vessels  having  struck  on  it  at  distances  supposed  to  be  10  or  15  miles  from  the  cape. 
The  western  face  of  the  shoal  is  very  steep,  the  depth  decreasing  rapidly  from  20  fathoms. 
It  is  recommended  that  vessels  give  this  slioal  a  wide  berth,  and  not  haul  to  the  eastward 
when  coming  from  the  southward  until  at  a  distance  of  25  to  30  miles  from  the  cape.  Vessels 
bound  southward  through  the  strait  should  be  careful  not  to  fall  too  far  eastward  and 
be  caught  between  the  shoal  and  the  northern  shore,  especially  sailing  vessels  with 
northerly  or  northeasterly  winds. 

Vessels  making  an  anchorage  ull  the  native  village  of  Kingegan  at  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales  should  approach  it  only  from  the  southwestward.  The  soundings  decreaise  rapidly 
from  13  fathoms,  and  anchorage  should  not  be  made  in  less  than  7  fathoms.  During  the 
open  season  the  current  sweeps  by  the  cape  northward  with  a  velocity  of  from  2  to  3  knots, 
and  care  should  be  taken  in  making  an  anchorage  here  not  to  be  swept  by  this  current  upon 
the  shoal. 

FairAvay  Rock  is  a  high,  square-headed,  steep-sided  rock.  The  bottom  is  steep-to  on 
all  sides,  and  there  are  no  outlying  dangers. 

Big  and  Little  Diomede  Islands  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea,  with  nearly  perpendicular 
sides ;  tliey  are  steep-to,  and  there  are  no  beaches.  The  tops  of  the  islands  are  a  sort  of 
broken  table-land.  The  larger  island  is  about  1,700  feet  high,  the  smaller  somewhat  lower. 
In  their  vicinity  the  water  is  deep  with  generally  rocky  bottom,  and  the  anchorage  is  poor. 
There  are  some  rocks  above  water  close  to  shore  on  the  west  side  of  the  larger  one.  The 
native  village  on  the  larger  island  is  on  the  southwest  side,  off  which  vessels  can  anchor  in 
14  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  The  channel  between  the  islands  is  about  2  miles  wide.  It  is 
not  generally  used,  but  whaling  vessels  have  passed  through,  carrying  20  fathoms  of  water, 
favoring  the  side  of  the  channel  next  the  larger  island.  There  is  a  native  village  on  a  rocky 
sloj)e  on  the  smaller  island  facing  this  channel,  off  which  a  reef  of  rocks  and  sand  is  said  to 
extend  a  short  distance  into  the  channel. 

East  Cape  is  a  bold,  rugged  headland,  about  2,500  feet  high,  steep  on  all  sides,  and  with 
deep  water  qiiite  close-to.  It  has  low,  marshy  land  back  of  it,  and  when  seen  at  a  distance 
appears  as  an  island.  There  are  no  dangers  off  the  land,  and  except  at  the  anchorages  the 
water  is  deep  with  rocky  bottom.  There  is  good  anchorage  (in  8  fathoms),  with  good  shelter 
from  offshore  winds,  on  both  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  cape,  where  the  lowland  back 
of  it  begins.  There  is  also  an  anchorage  (in  10  fathoms,  muddy  bottom)  off  the  native 
village  on  the  face  of  the  cape. 

From  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Shishmaref  Inlet  the  coast  is  a  low  sand  beach,  with 
lagoons  and  marshes  back  of  it.  On  a  clear  day  the  mountains  in  the  interior  can  bo  seen, 
The  Ears  and  Conical  Hill  being  distinguishable. 

Shishmaref  Inlet  is  a  large  inlet  extending  into  the  land,  but  it  has  never  been  explored. 
Across  its  mcjuth  is  a  low  sand  island,  with  shallow  (Openings  at  each  end.  Shoal  water 
extends  off  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  several  miles. 

From  Shishmaref  Inlet  to  Cape  Kspenherq  the  coast  is  higher  than  that  westward  of 
the  inlet,  and  is  a  line  of  low  bluff's  and  small  sand  dunes,  terminating  at  Cape  Espenberg 
in  a  very  low  sjnt,  which  is  made  out  with  difficulty.  A  number  of  small  native  settlements 
are  scattered  along  this  coast  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Cape  Espenberg. 

KOTZEBUE   SOUND. 

Kotzebue  Sound  is  about  30  miles  wide  at  its  entrance  between  Cape  Espenberg  and 
Cai)e  Krusenstern,  22  miles  wide  from  Capo  Espenljerg  to  the  shoal  water  off"  the  mouth  of 
Hotham  Inlet,  and  extends  about  30  miles  south  of  Cape  Espenberg.  Except  for  the  shoal 
off  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Iidet,  the  soundings  throughout  the  sound  are  very  uniform,  vary- 
ing from  7  to  ',i  fathoms.     Fi-om  Cape  Espenberg  the  west  shore  of  the  sound  is  shallow  some 


54  BULLETIN    NO.    10 — SKC'OXD    EDITION. 

distance  from  tlie  land,  and  vessels  should  approacli  it  with  care.  The  laud  on  this  side  of 
the  sound  is  generally  low.  There  is  a  small  but  conspicuous  hill  aboiit  halfway  between 
the  cape  and  the  southern  shore.  On  the  south  side  of  the  sound  the  laud  is  higher,  more 
rockj'',  and  of  a  bolder  character  than  the  west  shore.  Under  water,  also,  it  is  bold,  and  has 
soundings  of  4  and  5  fathoms  quite  close  to  the  ])romontories. 

Chamisso  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  Eschscholtz  Bay,  is  a  small,  rounded  island  having 
a  grassy  hill  2ol  feet  high.  Its  shores  are  rocky,  except  its  northeast  end,  which  is  a  low 
sand  sjiit.     Almig  its  north  and  east  sides  shoal  water  extends  from  ^  to  i  mile  offshore. 

Puffin  Island,  west  of  Chamisso  Island,  is  a  rocky  islet,  with  two  conspicuous  rocks 
southward  of  it.  Between  the  island  and  rocks  and  Chamisso  Islaud  the  water  is  shoal  and 
rocky.     The  water  on  the  north  and  west  sides  of  Puffin  Island  is  bold-to. 

CUAIMISSO  AXOUORAGE,  between  Chamisso  Island  and  Choris  Peninsula,  is  the 
only  place  on  the  Arctic  coast  of  Alaska  that  can  be  called  a  harbor.  By  shifting  anchorage 
i-  mile  good  shelter  can  be  found  from  all  winds.  Off  Choris  Peninsula  shoal  water  extends 
toward  Chamisso  Island  fully  1  mile.  The  deepest  water  is  close  to  Puffin  Island.  In 
approaching  the  anchorage  give  Point  Garnet,  the  southwest  extremity  of  Choris  Peninsula, 
a  berth  of  1  mile,  and  stand  down  well  toward  Puffin  Island  liefore  hauling  in.  Anchor 
with  Puffin  Island  bearing  S.,  at  a  distance  not  greater  than  J  mile,  in  8  fathoms,  muddy 
bottom. 

Early  in  the  season,  fresh  water  can  be  obtained  on  Chamisso  Island,  and  on  the  east 
side  of  Choris  Peninsula. 

Tides. — See  tide  table,  pages  10,  11. 

Eschscholtz  Bay,  east  of  Chamisso  Island  and  Choris  Peninsula,  is  generally  shoal. 
The  soundings  decrease  gradually  from  Chamisso  Anchorage  to  2^  fathoms  at  3  miles  off 
the  point  which  lies  4  miles  west  of  Elephant  Point.  East  of  this  point  the  shoaling  con- 
tinues, and  this  part  of  the  bay  is  only  navigable  for  small  boats.  The  shore  at  the  head 
of  the  bay  is  difficult  of  access  on  account  of  long,  muddy  flats,  which,  at  low  water,  are 
bare  in  some  places  ^  mile  from  the  beach.  It  is  probable  that  the  whole  bay  is  gradually 
filling  up,  and  vessels  going  east  of  Chamisso  Anchorage  should  proceed  with  caution. 
Buckland  River,  a  large  but  shallow  river,  empties  into  the  head  of  the  bay.  There  are  few 
natives  in  its  vicinity. 

Choris  Peninsula,  forming  the  western  side  of  Eschscholtz  Ba,j,  has  two  hills,  about 
300  feet  high,  separated  by  a  low,  sandy  neck.  Northward  of  Choris  Peninsula  the  land 
is  low  for  some  distance,  and  then  rises  into  low,  perpendicular  bluffs  which  continue  to 
Hotham  Inlet.  These  bhiffs  are  coniposed  of  ice  and  frozen  mud,  which  is  gradually  melt- 
ing and  sliding  down,  making  deep  furrows  all  along  their  face. 

Cape  Blossom  is  a  distinctly  marked  point  in  this  line  of  bluffs,  whitdi  are  highest  at 
the  cape  and  slope  to  either  side. 

The  bottom  of  this  side  of  the  sotind  is  very  even  southward  of  Cape  Blossom  at  a 
distance  of  about  5  miles  from  the  land ;  but  northward  of  the  cape  a  shoal,  with  very  little 
water  on  it,  extends  8  to  10  miles  off  the  land  from  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet,  and  south 
to  within  2  miles  of  the  latitude  of  Cape  Blossom.  This  shoal  is  very  dangerous,  as  the 
soundings  give  short  warning  of  its  proximity,  the  distance  from  the  shore  can  not  be  judged 
under  ordinary  conditions,  and  there  are  no  good  landmarks. 

The  general  anchorage  in^this  vicinity  is  off  Cape  Blossom,  as  it  is  the  nearest  poiut 
from  which  commuuieation  can  be  had  with  Hotham  Inlet.  In  approaching  the  cape,  it 
should  not  be  brought  to  bear  to  the  eastward  of  ENE.  until  in  the  vicinity  of  the  anchorage. 
Anchor  in  5  fathoms  with  the  cape  bearing  between  ENE.  and  E.  by  N.,  distant  3  miles. 
This  anchorage  is  protected  from  northerly  and  easterly  winds.  There  is  generally  a  cur- 
rent, strongest  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  having  a  velocity  of  from  1  to  1  knot,  setting 
northwestward. 

The  coast  from  Cape  Blossom  to  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet  is  the  jilace  of  rendezvous 
for  the  natives  of  the  surrounding  country  for  the  pitrpose  of  fishing  and  trading.     The 


CAPE   BLOSSOM,  E.  BY  N.,  DISTANT  3  MILES. 


BERING    SEA    AXD    ARCTIC    OCEAN.  55 

coast  natives  fi-om  Cape  Piunce  of  Wales,  including  the  Diomedes  and  King  Island,  to  Point 
Hope  assemble  here  about  the  last  of  July  to  meet  those  who  come  down  the  large  rivers 
from  the  interior. 

IIOTlIAM  iXLiET  is  about  35  miles  in  length  and  from  4  to  8  miles  in  width.  Its  gen- 
eral trend  is  southeast;  its  water  is  little  influenced  by  tides,  but  a  prolonged  southeast  wind 
causes  a  low  stage.  The  entrance  is  obstructed  by  vast  mud  flats  and  sand  bars,  some  of 
which  are  bare  at  low  water  There  is  a  shifting  channel  whitdi  is  dillicult  to  trace,  running 
close  along  the  shore  from  Cape  Blossom  north  into  the  inlet,  through  which  4  to  5  feet  can 
be  carried.  In  the  inlet  proper  the  channel  is  said  to  have  from  2  to  4  fathoms,  and  to 
gradually  shoal  toward  its  head.     There  are  three  large  rivers  emptying  into  the  inlet. 

The  Noatak  River,  joining  it  at  the  north,  has  numerous  rapids  and  is  not  navigable 
for  any  distance  for  boats  larger  than'  native  canoes.  The  natives  portage  from  the  head- 
waters of  this  river  to  the  Ikpikpuug  River,  and  thus  to  the  Artie  Ocean  east  of  Point 
Barrow. 

Th(;  Kowak  River  emijties  at  the  east  side  of  the  inlet  by  many  mouths,  oft"  which 
shoals  having  from  "2  to  4  feet  of  water  extend  far  oiit  into  the  inlet.  In  crossing  the  bar  it 
is  somewhat  difficult  to  find  a  channel,  but  when  fairly  between  the  banks  of  the  river  there 
is  comparatively  deep  water.  In  1898  a  large  number  of  prospectors  were  attracted  to  the 
region  of  Hotliam  Inlet.  Two  stern-wheel  steamers  were  used  in  transporting  their  sujJ- 
plies  up  the  Kowak  River,  and  ir  is  said  that  these  steamers  ascended  the  river  200  miles. 
The  current  in  the  river  was  found  very  strong,  running  at  some  points  with  a  velocity  of 
5  or  6  miles  an  hour.  This  current  is  dangerous  for  small  boats;  eight  men  lo.st  their  lives 
in  1898  while  boating  their  provisions  up  the  river.  Tlie  natives  portage  from  the  head- 
waters of  the  Kowak  River  to  the  Koyukuk  River,  a  branch  of  the  Yukon. 

Selawik  Lake  is  the  prolongation  of  the  head  of  Hotliam  Inlet  eastward,  and  it  has  a 
large  river,  Selawik  River,  emptying  into  it  at  its  head. 

From  Hotliam  Inlet  to  Cape  Krusenstern  the  coast  is  a  low  beach.  The  shoal  water 
from  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  extends  nearly  halfway  to  the  cape ;  the  face  of  the  shoal  is 
steep  and  should  be  api^roached  carefully.  From  wliere  the  shoal  joins  the  land  to  Cape 
Krusenstern  there  is  good  water  close  in,  with  regular  soundings. 

Cape  Krusenstern. — Back  of  Cape  Krusenstern  there  is  a  high,  prominent  range  of 
mountains,  which  can  be  seen  at  a  long  distance.  On  nearer  approach  the  mountains  are 
seen  to  fall  away  to  the  cape  in  a  series  of  steps,  and,  in  shaping  a  course  into  the  sound, 
the.se  cliffs,  or  steps,  must  not  be  mistaken  for  the  cape,  which  is  a  low  point  extending 
about  3  miles  westward  of  them.  A  shoal  extends  about  3  miles  westward  and  northwai'd 
off  the  point  of  the  cape. 

From  Cape  Krusenstern  to  Cape  Seppings  the  C(jast  is  a  low,  shingly  beach,  back  of 
wliich  is  a  series  of  lagoons,  which  discharge  their  waters  through  small,  shallow  openings. 
The  high  land  of  Cape  Krusenstern  extends  along  this  coast  some  distance  inland,  termi- 
nating in  the  Mulgrave  Hills,  about  30  miles  northwestward.  After  passing  Mulgrave 
Hills  the  land  is  an  extensive  plain  until  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Seppings.  Here  the 
mountains  approach  close  to  the  coast  and  slope  down  to  the  shore.  Cape  Seppings  and 
Cape  Th(mipsou  are  not  distinct,  and  it  is  difficult  to  determine  the  points  to  which  the 
names  should  be  apjilied. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Thompson,  for  a  distance  of  G  miles,  the  mountains  break  off 
directly  to  the  water  in  a  scries  of  alirupt  cliffs  about  500  feet  high.  The  shore  line  is  gen- 
erally straight  alul  there  are  no  distinct  promontories  in  the  line  of  clift's.  What  was  prob- 
ably named  Cape  Thompson  is  a  rugged  mountain  face,  about  in  the  center  of  tins  line  of 
cliffs,  having  at  its  southern  end  a  very  distinct  series  of  strata,  in  the  form  of  an  irregular 
semicircde.  In  the  ravine  south  of  this  point  there  is  a  small  stream,  from  which  good  water 
can  easily  be  obtained.  Directly  off  the  watering  place  anchorage  may  be  had  in  5  fathoms, 
sandy  bottom.     At  other  points  along  the  cliffs  the  bottom  is  generally  rocky. 


56  BULLETIN    NO.  40 — SECOND    EDITION. 

From  Cape  Thompson  the  mountains  continue  north-northwest  to  Cape  Lishurne,  while 
the  coast  curves  to  the  northwestward  and  westward  to  Point  Hope. 

Point  Hope  is  the  western  extremity  of  a  low  tongue  of  land  which  projects  almost  16 
miles  from  the  general  line  of  the  coast  mountain  range.  It  has  a  steep  shingle  beach,  and 
its  surface  is  broken  by  a  number  of  lagoons.  The  largest  of  these,  Marryat  Inlet,  has 
its  entrance  on  the  north  side,  close  to  where  the  coast  trends  northward,  and  a  draft  of 
10  feet  can  be  carried  through  the  entrance.  For  a  number  of  years  some  small  schooners 
have  been  using  this  inlet  as  a  place  to  winter.  Those  not  familiar  should  sound  out  the 
channel  before  entering.  In  the  tirst  of  the  season,  when  the  ice  breaks  in  the  inlet,  there 
is  a  strong  current  running  out  and  the  moving  ice  is  more  or  less  dangerous.  There  is  a 
large  native  village  on  the  end  of  Point  Hope,  and  scattered  on  the  south  side,  from  the  end 
of  the  point  to  Cape  T]iomi-)son,  are  a  number  of  whaling  stations  conducted  by  white  men, 
which  are  maintained  throughoiit  the  year. 

lu  the  bight  just  north  of  tiie  high  land  of  Cape  Thompson  the  water  is  somewhat 
shoaler  than  farther  west,  though  the  soundings  are  regular.  Seven  miles  east  of  Point 
Hope  there  is  a  3-fathom  shoal  nearly  1  mile  offshore.  As  the  point  is  approached  the 
water  deepens,  and  toward  its  end  8  fathoms  can  be  carried  to  within  ^  mile  of  the  beach. 
The  tip  of  the  point  is  very  bold,  there  being  13  fathoms  a  few  ships'  lengths  from  .shore; 
but  on  rounding  the  point  to  the  north  side  the  soundings  decrease  rapidly  to  5  fathoms  i 
mile  from  shore,  and,  in  general,  the  water  in  the  bight  on  the  north  side  of  the  point  is 
shoaler  than  on  the  south  side.  At  the  mouth  of  Marryat  Inlet  shoal  water  extends  off 
some  distance. 

There  is  a  narrow  shoal  with  a  depth  of  4-  fathoms  at  its  southern  end  and  lying  about 
2^  miles  NW.  from  Point  Hope.  This  shoal  extends  in  a  general  "WNW.  direction  for  a 
distance  of  3  miles  from  the  i-fathom  spot,  and  has  a  general  depth  of  5  to  6  fathoms  over  it. 

From  the  mouth  of  Marryat  Inlet  to  Cape  Lisburne  the  mountains  lie  along  the  coast 
and  terminate  at  the  shore  line  in  rugged,  rocky  cliff's.  There  are  a  few  ravines  through  the 
cliffs,  having  running  streams,  with  beaches  at  the  shore,  where  fresh  water  can  be  obtained. 

Cape  Lisburne  is  a  bare,  brown  mountain,  850  feet  high,  forming  a  rugged  headland 
that  is  distinctly  marked  by  the  number  of  pinnacles  and  scattered  rocks  near  its  summit. 
Its  faces  at  the  shore  are  very  steep.  At  the  cape  the  shore  line  changes  its  direction  abruptly 
to  E.  by  N.  There  are  no  outlying  rocks,  but  there  is  a  ridge  extending  5  miles  to  the 
northeastward  from  the  cape,  on  which  5  fathoms  can  be  found  at  a  distance  of  2  to  3  miles 
from  the  laud.  Off  this  cape  the  wind  rushes  down  from  the  mountains  in  gusts  of  great 
violence  and  varying  directions,  and  with  oft'shore  winds  A^essels  should  keep  well  off  the 
land  in  passing. 

From  Cape  Lisburne  to  Cape  Sabine  the  land  is  lower  and  loses  the  rugged  character  of 
that  southward  of  the  former  cape.  The  hills  are  rounded  and  rolling,  regular  in  outline, 
and  slope  to  the  sea.  Toward  Cape  Sabine  the  land  becomes  a  series  of  ridges  and  valleys 
running  inland;  both  terminate  at  the  coast  in  bluffs. 

Cape  Sabine  is  the  end  of  one  of  these  ridges,  and  projects  but  slightly  from  the  general 
line  of  coast. 

Coal. — Veins  of  coal  are  found  from  Cape  Thompson  to  Cape  Beaufort.  In  the  face  of 
the  bluffs  at  Cape  Sabine  some  veins,  varying  in  thickness  from  1  to  4  feet,  have  been  worked 
by  whaling  vessels.  The  veins  show  plainly  along  the  top  of  the  bluffs  directly  at  the  shore. 
The  use  of  the  coal  is  limited,  owing  to  its  poor  quality  and  the  difficulties  in  obtaining  it, 
and  it  is  not  recommended  to  depend  upon  it  except  in  case  of  necessity. 

From  Cape  Sabine  to  Cape  Beaufort  the  land  continues  of  a  rolling  character  until 
nearing  the  latter  cape,  which  is  a  dark  mountain  coming  down  directly  to  the  shore.  There 
is  no  break  in  the  shore  line  at  the  cape,  and  it  probably  received  its  name  as  such  because 
seen  at  a  distance.  This  is  the  most  northern  extension  of  high  land  on  the  coast  of  Alaska. 
The  mountains  at  this  point  ti'end  inland  and  the  coast  continues  low. 


"7 


BKKlNCi    SKA    AND    AKCTIC    OCKAX.  Ot 

The  biglit  from  Cape  Lisburne  to  Cape  Beaufort  is  comparatively  sliallow,  but  the 
bottom  is  regular,  and  anchorage  may  be  had  anywhere  alongshore  from  1  to  2  miles  from 
land.  Dii-ectly  off  Cape  Beaufort  the  water  is  shoalei"  than  elsewhere  betweeu  it  and  Cajxi 
Lisburne.  There  are  numerous  valleys  along  this  part  of  the  coast,  nearly  all  of  which 
have  streams  of  good  water.  North  of  Cape  Beaufort  it  is  almost  impossible  to  obtain  fresh 
water  on  the  coast. 

About  10  miles  north  of  Cape  Beaufort  is  the  southern  end  of  a  lai"ge  lagoon,  which 
stretches  along  the  coast  without  a  break  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Wainwright  Inlet. 
Separating  this  lagoon  from  the  ocean  is  a  narrow  strip  of  sand  beach,  elevated  but  a  few 
feet  above  the  water,  with  several  small,  shallow  openings  througli  it  south  of  Icy  Cape, 
and  two  considerable  openings  north  of  that  cape.  The  land  on  the  inside  of  the  lagoon  is 
generally  low,  but  in  coasting  along,  some  small  bluffs  with  low,  rolling  land  back  of  them 
can  be  seen  in  places.  South  of  Icy  Cape  the  lagoon  has  three  large  rivers  emptying  into  it, 
and  its  whole  extent  is  filled  with  flats  and  bars  that  make  it  scarcelj"-  navigable  even  for 
native  canoes.  North  of  Icy  Cape  the  water  in  the  lagoon  is  deeper.  Througli  an  opening 
about  10  to  VZ  miles  from  the  cape  8  feet  of  water  can  be  safely  carried,  with  from  2  to  3 
fathoms  inside.  The  channel  is  close  to  the  sand  spit  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance. 
Another  opening,  10  to  12  miles  farther  north,  is  somewhat  shallower. 

Point  Lay  and  Icy  Cape  are  merely  bends  in  the  sand  spit  forming  the  coast.  Both 
places  can  be  distinguished  by  some  hummocks  on  the  beach.  The  beacon  formerly  marking 
Icy  Cape  is  partly  gone,  and  is  now  difficult  to  make  out. 

From  Cape  Beaufort  to  Icy  Cape  the  bottom  is  regular,  and  tlie  shore  can  bu  approached 
closer  than  in  that  part  of  the  bight  west  of  the  former  cape.  When  coasting  it  should  lie 
remembered  that  off  the  openings  into  the  lagoon  the  water  is  shoaler  than  on  either  side. 

Blossom  Shoals  extend  6  to  8  miles  oft'  Icy  Cape,  and  consist  of  a  number  of  banks 
parallel  with  the  shore.  These  shoals  are  greater  in  extent  than  shown  on  any  chart,  and, 
from  the  grounding  of  vessels  and  observation,  appear  to  be  spreading.  In  api^roachiug  the 
shoals  the  bottom  is  lumpy  and  the  soundings  irregular.  Of  late  years,  on  account  of 
frequent  grounding  in  unexpected  places  about  the  edge  of  the  shoals,  the  whaling  vessels 
all  unite  in  giving  them  a  wide  berth;  and  it  is  recommended  that  vessels  rounding  Icy 
Cape  should  keep  outside  of  12  fathoms. 

Wainwright  Inlet,  about  40  miles  from  Icy  Cape,  is  a  moderate-sized  lagoon,  and  has 
a  river  emptying  at  its  liead.  Its  entrance,  between  Point  Marsh  and  Point  Collie,  is  a 
narrow,  difficult  channel,  through  which  8  to  10  feet  can  be  carried.  Inside  the  water  is 
deeper.     Off  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  the  water  is  shoal  fully  1  mile  from  land. 

The  coast  from  Point  Collie  to  Point  Belcher  is  a  continuous  line  of  mud  cliff's  until 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  latter  point. 

At  Point  Belcher  the  coast  again  becomes  a  shingle  beach,  with  lagoons  inside,  and 
back  of  it  low,  rolling  hills,  which  are  higher  than  any  other  land  that  can  be  seen  north  of 
Cajie  Beaufort.  North  of  the  point  the  coast  continues  in  a  very  low  sand  beach  to  Sea 
Horse  Islands. 

Sea  Horse  ■  Islands  and  Point  Franklin  are  the  highest  points  of  a  continuous  sand 
bank  which  extends  from  a  point  8  miles  north  of  Point  Belcher  to  Point  Franklin,  thence 
turning  abruptly  east  to  the  mainland  at  Peard  Bay  incloses  a  large  lagoon.  The  first  two 
islands  from  Point  Belcher  are  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  bank,  and  their  position  seems  to 
be  permanent.  The  openings  between  the  islands  are,  as  a  rule,  very  shallow  and  contin- 
iially  changing.  Former  ojjeningsare  now  closed,  and  openings  now  occur  in  the  positions 
of  former  banks.  Point  Franklin  is  a  veiy  small  sand  island,  witli  several  h^^mmocks  on 
it.  It  is  so  small  and  far  removed  from  the  other  islands  that  it  is  not  easily  made  out. 
The  greatest  changes  in  the  bank  occur  in  that  part  of  it  between  Point  Franklin  and  Peard 
Baj',  of  which  wliat  is  above  water  is  merely  a  narrow  stri]>  of  sand. 


58  BULLETIN    yO.  40 — SECOXD    EDITION. 

.  In  the  vicinity  of  Sea  Horse  Islands  the  water  is  shoal,  especially  off  the  openings  and 
Point  Franklin.  Off  Point  Franklin  a  shoal  makes  out  several  miles  northward  and 
northeastward,  and  vessels  ronnding  the  point  should  give  it  a  berth  of  4  to  5  miles. 

Peard  Bay,  eastward  of  Point  Franklin,  is  a  deep  bight,  which  is  often  used  by 
whalers  in  heavy  southerly  and  soiithwest  winds,  and  for  protection  from  ice  when  it  sets 
toward  the  shore.  The  bottom  of  the  bay  is  regular,  and  the  soundings  decrease  gradually 
to  the  shore.  The  water  is  deeper  along  the  mainland  than  on  the  south  side  along  the 
sand  spit  making  out  to  Point  Franklin. 

The  coast  from  Peard  Bay  to  Cape  Smyth  is  a  line  of  mud  cliffs  from  25  to  70  feet  high, 
being  highest  at  what  is  called  Skull  Cliff.  From  this  point  they  become  gradually  lower 
to  Cape  Smyth,  where  they  end.  The  coast  curves  regularlj'-  northward,  and  there  are  no 
jn-ojecting  points.  The  cliffs  are  broken  by  numerous  small  rivers.  There  are  beaches  at 
the  moutlis  of  the  rivers,  but  little  or  none  along  the  face  of  the  cliffs. 

Cape  Smyth  is  not  a  projecting  point,  and  can  not  be  distinguished  as  a  cape.  There 
is  a  large  native  village  at  the  end  of  the  mud  cliff's  at  this  point.  The  United  States  signal 
station  and  refuge  station,  formerly  here,  are  not  now  maintained,  but  there  is  a  large 
whaling  station  conducted  by  white  men. 

From  Cape  Smyth  to  Elson  Bay  the  coast  is  low  with  a  grassy  plain  back  of  it ;  but 
from  the  head  of  Elson  Bay  to  Point  Barrow  the  coast  is  a  narrow  sand  spit. 

Off'shore  from  Refuge  Inlet  to  the  head  of  Elson  Bay  the  water  is  deep,  and  soundings 
of  15  fathoms  are  found  about  3  miles  from  the  land.  The  water  then  shoals  evenly  to  7 
fathoms  at  about  1  mile  from  shore.  The  depths  then  lessen  rapidly  to  from  2^  to  :5  fathoms 
about  f  miles  offshore,  where  there  is  a  slight  ridge  shoved  up  by  the  ice,  and  which  in  the 
early  part  of  the  season  is  always  marked  by  heavy  ground  ice.  Inside  and  close  to  this 
ridge  the  water  deepens  again  to  from  3  to  4  fathoms,  and  vessels  seek  this  inside  passage  for 
protection  from  the  ice  when  necessary.  The  ridge  ends  in  a  24-fathom  shoal  about  1^ 
miles  offshore  where  the  high  land  ends  and  the  sand  spit  begins  at  the  head  of  Elson  Bay. 
From  this  point  to  Point  Barrow,  depths  of  3^  to  4  fathoms  can  be  carried  very  close  up  to 
the  sand  spit,  and  there  is  apparently  ni)  ridge  in  the  bottom  as  in  that  to  the  southward. 

At  Point  Barrow,  latitude  71°  23'  31"  N.,  longitude  156°  21'  30"  W.,  the  most  northern 
point  of  Alaska,  the  sand  spit  forming  the  coast  turns  abruptly  eastward.  There  is  a 
native  village  on  the  end  of  the  point.  Directly  oft'  the  point  the  water  is  fairly  bold-to,  and 
3  fathoms  can  be  carried  to  within  ^  mile  of  the  shore.  Farther  offshore  the  deepest  water 
of  this  part  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  is  found.  On  rounding  the  point  eastward  the  water 
becomes  shoal,  and  the  coast  can  seldom  be  approached  anywhere  closer  than  2  miles. 
About  2  miles  east  of  Point  Barrow  is  Moore  Channel,  the  entrance  to  Elson  Bay,  where 
H.  M.  S.  Plover  wintered  in  1852-53-54.  A  shoal  with  least  depth  of  2  fathoms  makes  off' 
from  the  point  on  the  east  side  of  the  channel,  and  extends  westward,  from  ^  to  J  mile  oft' 
the  sand  spit,  and  ends  nearly  opposite  the  native  village  on  Point  Barrow.  Inside  the  shoal 
there  is  a  channel  leading  to  Moore  Channel,  with  nothing  less  than  3  fathoms,  and  deeper 
water  in  Moore  Channel.  This  channel  is  often  used  as  an  anchorage  for  protection  from 
the  ice,  as  heavj'  ice  grounds  on  the  outer  shoal. 


IN^DEX. 


A. 

Page. 

Acharoii  Channel 45 

Acherk  narbor 16 

Agencies ^ 

Akun  Cove 20 

Akun  Head 1^ 

Akutan  Harbor -- -^ 

Akutuu  Island '8 

Akutan  Pass 21 

Aleks  Hock - 18 

Aniak  Island 20 

Aiiderpon  Rock 18 

ApooD  Pass 42,43 

Aproka  Channel 43 

Arctic  Ocean 49 

Avatanak  It-land 17 

B. 

Beaver  Inlet 21 

Bering  Sea 7 

Besboru  Island 38 

Beulah  Island 37 

Black  Rock •_ 31) 

Blossom  Shoals 57 

Bristol  Bay 25 

C. 

Cape  Beaufurt 56 

Cape  BIo88oni o4 

Cape  Cheerful 22 

Cajie  Cliibukak 36 

Ciipe  Constantino 29 

Cape  Corwin 34 

Cape  Darby 38 

Cape  Denbigh 38 

Cape  Etulin—. 34 

Cape  Glast-nap 25 

Cape  (ircig 28 

CapeKulekhta 19,22 

Cape  Khituk — 19,20 

Cajie  Krallegak 35 

Capi;  Kruscnstcni 55 

Cape  Kntuzof 27 

Cape  I*ui)iu , 25 

Capo  fiazarof lO 

Capo  Lisburne 5G 

Cape  iMendeuhalI___ 34 

Capo  Mohican , -54 

Cajje  Morgan 18 

Cape  Newenham iiO 

Cape  Nome —  46 

Capft  Pankof 15 

Capo  Peirce 30 

Cape  i'rince  of  Wales 52 

Cajie  Prince  of  Wales  Shoal 63 

Cape  Romanzof 36 

Cape  Sabine 56 

Cape  Saritchey „ ___ 19,25 

Cape  Seniavino 27 

Cape  Seppings 55 

Capo  Smyth - 58 

Cape  Thomi>son 55 

Cape  Upright _._ _.  33 

Capo  Vanrouvor 36 

Cape  V'ork 47 

Carolyn  Inland 39 

Cave  Point 25 

Chainisao  Anchorage 64 

Chaniisso  Island 54 

Charts,  List  of 6 


Pago. 

Chestakof  It=land 28 

Oboris  Peninsula 54 

Clarks  Point —  29 

Coal  Bluff 26 

Coast  from  Cape  Kniscnstern  to  Cape  Seppings 55 

Coast  from  Cape  Nome  to  Beiiiig  Strait 46 

Coast  i\\iiu  Cape  Xouie  to  Point  Koduey 46 

Coast  from  Cape  Vancouver  to  Scammon  Bay 36 

Coast  from  Ilotham  Inlet  to  Cape  Krusenstero 55 

Coast  from  Isanotski  Strait  to  Unimak  Pass 15 

Coast  from  Port  Moller  to  Kuskokwim  River 27 

Coast  from  I'oint  Rodney  to  Cape  Doughiss 47 

Coast  from  St.  Michael  to  Apoou  Mouth,  Yukon  River 41,42 

Coast  from  St.  Michael  Bay  to  Tolstoi  Point 38 

Coast  from  Unimak  Pass  to  Port  Moller 25 

Constantine  Bay 22 

Crooked  Island 29 


I>. 


Dora  Harbor 

Dutch  Harbor 

Doe  Point 

Diomcde  Islands  _ 


Eagle  Rock 

Kast  Anchor  Cove 

East  Cape 

Egg  Island,  Norton  Sound. 
Egg  Island,  Uualga  Pass... 

English  Bay 

Entrance  Point 

Esclischoltz  Bay 


F. 


Fairway  Rock 

Flat  Top  Rock 

Fox  Islands  Passes. 


IG 
23 
26 
53 


26 
IC 
53 
38 
18 
21 
26 
54 


53 
19 
17 


G. 

Gardrn  Cove - 31 

General  Directions,  Isanotski  Strait  to  St.  Michael 41 

General  Directions  to  Port  Clarence 48 

General  Directions,  Unalga  Pass 21 

General  Directions,  Unimak  Pass 20 

General  Directions,  Unimak    Pass  and  Unalaska  Bay  to  St. 

Michael - 39,40,41 

.__ _ 33 

39 

„ 39 

48 

_ _ _ _  18 


Glory  of  Russia  Cape-. 

Golofnin  Jiay 

Golofnin  Sound 

Grantlcy  Harbor 

Gull  Rocks — 


H. 


Hagemeister  Channel  _ 
Ilagenieister  Island — 

Hague  Channel 

Half  Tide  Rock 

Hall  Island 

Harbor  Point 

Hereniieen  Bay 

High  Island 

Hog  Rack 

Hotham  Inlet 


IceconditioueaudFirtit  Annual  Arrival  of  Vessels  at  St.  Michael 

Icy  (.'ape — — — — -— — 

Ikalan  Bay 

Iliulink — — - 


30 
30 
27 
26 
34 
26 
25 
29 
43 
55 


14 

67 

15,16 

23 


(59) 


60 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Iliulink  Bay 22 

Iliulmk  Harbor 23 

Iliuliuk  Koef 24 

It^aDotski  Mount iUQ 17 

leanotski  Stniit 14 

Izenbeck  Bay 25 

J. 

Johnston  Channel — _ 27 

K. 

Kalekhta  Bay 21 

Kawanak  (Kwikpak)  Baraud  Pass 45 

Khndiakof  Islands 2G 

Kbudubin  Islands 2(> 

Kina:  Island 47 

Kutlik 4:i 

Kotzebue  Sound vi'i 

Kowak  River 5,i 

Kripuiyuk  River 40 

Kuskokwiin  River 30 

Kwiklowak  Baraud  Pass 45 

L. 

Lenard  Rock 18 

Lords  Harbor 16 

M. 

Mail  Routes 9, 10 

Makiisbin  Cape 24 

Makushiu  Volcano 2:i 

Marryat  Inlet 5(i 

Meteorological  Conditions,  Bristol  Bay 30 

Mine  Harbor 27 

Moore  Channel 58 

Morzhovoi  Bay 15 

Morzhovoi  Peninsula IJ 

Naknck  River 28 

Nichols  Hills 28 

Noatak  River 55 

North  Anchorage 31 

Northeast  Cape 35 

North  Head 19 

North  Hill 32 

Northwest  Cape 25 

Norton  Bay 38 

Norton  Sound 37 

Nuuivak  Island •        34 

Nushagak  River 28 

O. 

Okwega  River 43 

Old  Mau 18 

Otter  Island 32 

P. 

PavStoliak  River , 42 

Peard  Bay 58 

Pikmiktnltk  River 42 

Pinnacle  Island 33 

Pinnacle  Rock 24 

Pogrnmuoi  Volcano 17, 25 

Point  Barrow 58 

Point  Belcher 57 

Point  Divide 26 

Poini  Franklin 57 

Point  Hope 5G 

Point  Lay r 57 

Point  Riimanof 42 

Port  Clarence 47 

Port  Haiden 2S 

Port  Moller 26 

Port  Safety 39 

Pribilof  Islands __ 31 

Priest  Rock 20,22 

Princess  Head 22 

Promontory  Cove 16 


Page. 

Promontory,  The 16 

Puffin  Island __  54 

Punuk  Islands 35 

R. 

Reef  Point 32 

R.icky  Point,  Norton  Round 38, 41 

Rocky  Point,  Unalaska  Bay 24 

Rootok  Island 18 

Round  Island 29 

S. 

Sailing  Directions,  Herendcen  Bay 26 

Sailing  Directions,  Port  Moller 26 

Sailing  Directions,  St.  Michael  Bay  to  A]inon  Mouth,  Yukon 

River 1 44 

Sailing  Directions,  Unalaska  Bay 23 

Sannak  Islands 15 

Sarychef  Strait 34 

Scammon  Bay 36 

Scotch  Cap 19 

Seahorse  Islands 57 

Seal  Cape 19 

Sea  Lion  Neck :}2 

Seal  Islands 28 

Selawik  Lake 55 

Shaw  Bay 25 

Shingle  Point  _ 27 

Shisbaldiu  Volcano 17,25 

Shishmaref  Inlet 53 

Signals,  The 18 

Sledge  Island 46 

Southeast  Cape 35 

Southwest  Point 32 

St.  George  Island 31 

St.  Lawrence  Island 35 

St.  Matthew  Island 33 

St.  Michael 38 

St.  Michael  Canal 42 

St.  Michael  Island 37 

St.  Paul  Island __  32 

Stony  Point 32 

Stuart  Island _  37 

Summer  Bay 22 

T. 

Tides,  General  Table 10,11 

Tide  Table,  St.  Michael 12,13 

Tigalda  Island , 17 

Tolstoi  Point _ _ 38 

Tuscarora  Rock 25 

Twins,  The 29 

IT. 

Uganiok  Island 17 

Ugasbik  River _  28 

UlakhtaHead 22,24 

Unalga  Island 18 

Unalga  Pass 21 

Unalaska  Bay 22 

Unimak  Pass 20 

Unimak  Pass  to  Cape  Kalekhta 19 

V. 

Variation  of  the  Compiuss 10 

W. 

Wainwright  Inlet 57 

AValrus  Group,  The 29 

Walrus  Island '  32 

West  Anchor  Cove 16 

Whale  Island 37 

Wislovv  Island 24 

X, 

Yukon  Flats 37,40 

Z. 

Zapadui  Bay 31 


boo  561  578     6 


